GTSBoy

You should always have twin compressors on an RB. It's just that one of them should be a mechanically driven screw compressor and it should feed into the exhaust driven centrifugal compressor. Twincharge fo'lyfe!

Paper gaskets for inlet manifolds and such can be made from.....gasket paper. Just trace and cut out.

OEM or Splitfire. Or, upgrade to R35...but this entails a lot more work....and probably an ECU.

That is going to be a fact of life going forward. You don't buy an old Skyline and hope and pray that you'll be fine. Because you won't. Shit will break. Shit will break whether you drive it or not. You need to start collecting one of everything to put in the shed.

Per Duncan, you shouldn't run more than about 10 psi on a Neo with stock ECU, because all it ends up doing is using more fuel AND GOES NO FASTER. Backing it off to 10 or less might help, and might expose the problem, although it could still be either misfire or low fuel pressure. It is easier to diagnose fuel pressure under load than ignition. Simply connect a fuel pressure gauge in between the fuel filter in the engine bay and the inlet of the fuel rail. Then note the fuel pressure behaviour as you drive. It should increase with decreasing manifold vacuum/increasing boost. Any drop or failure to increase as you add load is a bad thing.

The best cheapy inspection cameras are the ~$30 eBay wifi ones that connect to your phone. Hi res, able to take photo and video, cable lengths of up to 5m. Good value.

If it's idling at 1100 rpm then there is probably a vacuum leak somewhere and the ECU is pulling timing in a vain attempt to get the idle speed back down to target. Probably one of the millions of f**king vacuum hoses on those NA Neos has popped off.

You need to do the required disassembly to get that hose all the way out (turbo in & out pipes, probably radiator shroud, possibly radiator, definitely undertray, etc). The repair process from there would be to take it to a hydraulics/hose place and get them to do what needs to be done. Would involve new swaged connections, new hose.

These threads always take a 90° turn before the end!

Yeah, but that's an R34 GTR right? ....where the % gap between buying via one pathway and the other is equivalent to many 10s of thousands of $$. And with R34 GTRs there is actually something available to buy in JP because 10 years newer + anticipated demand. Whereas..... an R32 sedan is something that would have been very very lucky to have escaped the crusher in JP if it hadn't already been sent overseas. And the difference in what it will cost you over there, plus shipping and related costs, cf what one costs here, is only maybe....$10-20k. That's not a lot of coin when taken in the same breath as the discussion on R34 GTRs, but really speaks to the value proposition. So I return to my point that it is all subject to the whole availability problem crossed over with the extra risk of buying more or less sight unseen from JP. All in all, it hardly seems worth it either way. I wouldn't be buying an R32 in the current (Oz) market, because the market prices don't reflect the actual value of the cars. Those Oz prices are reflective of other market prices too (like US) and that's driving JP pricing, because sellers will always charge what the market can bear. And what the market can bear out of JP is about 80-90% of what the market is asking locally (including the extra costs)....just so that it feels like you're getting it cheap. But you're still paying too much. Know what I mean?

The general rule is that you do not want to use a spring that is less than half the boost you want to bleed up to, and more spring is generally better than less. So for 20+ psi, you definitely want to be in the 14 psi spring range, rather than 10, and you definitely don't want to be using a 7.

Besides reducing compressor efficiency?

Where would they find one in Japan that wasn't either a basket case or also $30k?

Well, the seat rails are different, to the extent that you can't swap seats. But the floor mats don't really care about that small difference, and it's not actually under the mat - it's further back.

Yah, 'tis a dumb question. Will fit on the floor.

What does the absence of the intercooler have to do with it? Surely having nothing to fill that big space just makes it easier to fit. Instead of seeing an intercooler there, you will see your air-con condenser and whatever else is visible in that spot.

Nah.... buy a 65" TV from Kogan et al and shipping is only a small amount of money. Boxes the size of front guards are shipped around all the time. Even the bonnet might not be quite as bad as you expect. I mean.....if you (or say, I, because then there is defo shipping from Syd/Mel to me in SA) buy a JSAI bonnet from JustJap, or Seibon, the freight on that is unpleasant, but not excruciating - not compared to the cost of the bonnet, anyway. A box with a pair of seats from east coast to SA/WA is only a hundred bucks or so.

Yuh, but that gives him 11 days + 3 months. Although, summer in Canada is like, what? The 2nd week of August? So that actually gives him another couple of months. 😛

Listen to this man ^, and the man in the other thread, and also don't start multiple threads on the same website for the same question. Bee R's are dumb engine destroyers.

I understand that. But this guy has unplugged his switch (same as your bypass to get around the missing rubber!) and his lights stayed on.

Wouldn't have. They're not exactly weak things. Even going full travel and hitting the stop at some speed won't hurt them. It is far more likely that you have a simple plumbing problem. Take it back to basics, as advised above.

Leave it. Anything you weld there is going to be so dinky that it has a better chance of falling off at some point and killing the turbine than being useful. Because Nissan were using open turbine housings. There wasn't a lot of point in trying to have a perfect divider.

2nd handies can usually be found on eBay. Not interested in running the GKtechs?

Yes......but..... he disconnected the wiring to the switch and the lights stayed on. That's not correct. No wiring = no electrons bumbling along.

Whilst true.... Opening the circuit should kill the lights. This suggests a short. Which suggests that you should break out the multimeter and start fault finding.