GTSBoy

No. Go back and read what I wrote. If you put a chassis stand under the pinch weld, then the weight of the car is bearing down on the lower edge of the pinch weld directly onto the flat of the chassis stand. That is not how the lifting point is designed to be used. Contrast that with how the factory scissor jack is loaded onto the lifting point. The pinch weld goes down into a slot in the top of the jack, and the jack makes contact with the lifting point to either side of the pinch. The load is carried by the strong, reinforced part of the sill. Not the weak as piss easy to fold over pinch weld. This is why, as Josh said above, you don't just throw 2 post hoists, or any other sort of lifting device like a trolley jack under the sill jacking points and crank it into the sky either. This because they don't have the correct interface to load the jacking point correctly - unless you place the correct adapter into the interface. Like the rubber block he showed for a chassis stand, but with a big round lower part of the pad to seat on the end of the hoist arm or trolley jack bowl.

Yes. I've not seen them in Australia and I can see your average knob head making a catastrophic f**kup with them.

And in a horrible coincidence, I just had to coach my daughter through jacking her car up to change a tyre on the phone from 2600 km away. I mean....I shouldn't have had to, having previously had her do it in the driveway. But it appears that smashing a tyre on the kerb makes memories of earlier training evaporate. So, I now have a photo on my phone of a 2014 Swift's FR jacking point, if anyone thinks it will help!

No. Never. That's how you f**k up and fold them over. Look at the jacking points and look at the OEM jack that goes there. The weight is not carried on the ridge of the pinch. The weight is carried up higher, on the reinforced plates either side of the pinch, and ONLY at those specific reinforced jacking points, nowhere else along the sill. If you want to put jackstands under the sills, you need to have an adapter that takes the weight either onto those reinforced locations either side of the ridge of the pinch weld. Otherwise the pinch just rests like a knife edge on the horizontal plate on the top of the jack stand. And these adapters don't really exist because they'd be f**king dangerous in the hands of most users. Jack stands go under a suitably flat part of a subframe, or under the lower inner pivots on a suspension arm. Somewhere strong enough to carry the weight without bending. Somewhere that won't slide off of the jack stand.

Or to an RSM or any other doohicky that wanted a speed input.

Time to start some low level fault finding work then. Measure the resistance of the circuits coming off the flasher can, looking for differences between LHS and RHS. Perhaps measure the resistance of individual globes. Maybe one of them has a weird internal short or (more likely) high resistance. Open circuit on a globe is what triggers the fast flash response, so high resistance (but still making some light) might do the same. Perhaps wire up a completely external circuit using the original flasher can and some globes to see if it behaves itself under controlled circumstances. etc etc.

Heel & toe is strictly a 3 pedal technique anyway. What you'd be considering, if anything at all, is left foot braking. That way your concerns about the time required to move foot from brake pedal to throttle as you transition from trail braking to power on go away. I mean, that's something that you'd do an a 3 pedal car anyway, at that stage in the corner. This because at that stage in the corner you'd only need to be using the left foot for the clutch (and hence need to consider heel & toe) to change gears because something had just gone totally wrong (like the clown in front of you spinning across your path, etc).

That's true of the R34s, but only inasmuch as it is also true for engines with a separate igniter. The ECU is not actually connected to the coils at all, on any of them. It is connected to the igniter. So the ECU's diagnostics on the "primary side" is actually only to the transistor that is the igniter. True for both older separate igniters and for integrated igniters. The ECU does not see the primary coil of the coilpack.

There were a bunch of very disappointing R33s brought in with RB20Es. It was hilarious when people bought them thinking that all R33s were RB25!

Flywheel is the same. I would not expect the crank pulley to be the same, and I'm horrified that the 25 you appear to have bought did not have one on it. You might just have to buy aftermarket. Pink sticker AFM, check. ECU? You need one with the right part number. I wouldn't base decision off of sticker colour!

Well, yes, but only really at idle, which, as Duncan said, might not prove anything. A coil can be strong enough to run well at low load and poop itself the minute you add a bit more mixture pressure into the chamber. If you want to do it under load, then the car needs to be on the dyno, and popping a coil loom plug off under load isn't a lot of fun. If you want to pull the coils and/or the plugs, then the crossover is coming off. There's a big difference between reaching in and popping a coil loom plug off and getting the tools in there to unbolt them and pull them up and out.

Yes. It'll look like shit. That's the definition of fouled. Take the crossover off. It only takes 10 minutes.

Shit, I wouldn't even click the link.

Do eet! It would be the only NA result worth looking at.

And addressing the turbo itself.....T66 making nearly 600HP (so, about 60 lb/min at PR 2.1) is part way from the island to the right hand edge of the compressor map. Somewhere close to 70% efficiency, which is actually a fairly happy spot to run the turbo. If you want another 50 fwhp (as an example of something you might want) you could add a few psi (say 21, PR 2.4) and stay on approximately the same efficiency line, increasing shaft speed by nearly 10000rpm. Seems perfectly doable on the compressor side. I have no idea if the turbine/ex housing will play along. Probably would be fine. If the motor were built to take the cylinder pressures (and there's no mention of head studs or gasket specs in your post) then you should be able to jam 30 psi into it and get very close to maxing out the airflow capability of the turbo, whilst still not getting too hot. That's ~700-750 fwhp, but the boost and shaft speeds required to get there are both a lot larger steps up than the gain from the 1st 4 or 5 psi that you could put into it. You would definitely want a big intercooler, and I agree with the calls above for better injectors. You'd almost certainly want to look at properly controlling those fuel pumps too, because.....damn. That's a lot of heat being put into the fuel.

Yes....well....how long is a piece of string? There are a few indisputable facts, and a lot of supposition. It is difficult to tell these categories apart. Fact. Volume of cars for sale is down. Many who have them realise that if they let one go now, it will be much much harder than it used to be to get another. Fact. Those that are for sale are being offered at very high speculative prices. Some of those are being sold for high prices, which defines the "value" of the others not being sold. Prices are high - higher than comfortable for buying for a daily driver, I would suggest. The maintenance concerns you express are becoming significant - more on that later. If you want to buy one as a low usage "forever car" then the high cost might be more supportable. That's if throwing a lot of money into a car that is not really worth the current prices is "supportable". Also, it all depends on your personal position. If you are earning $200k and have assets and disposable cash out the wazoo, then you can support a lot more vehicular silliness than someone who is balancing a Carnival's worth of kids on a significantly lower income and asset base. Anyone looking to waste money on cars in that situation needs to ponder whether it's a good use of money or not. Maintenance & parts. Good and bad here. 2nd hand parts of the sort required to fix major problems (like accident damage when you get rear ended by Karen in her Sportage) or engines and gearboxes are much harder to find and 3-4 times the price they were a few years ago. It is a sufficient worry for someone like me who already has a car, dailies it, and does not have a sufficiently large stockpile of "survival" parts in the shed. Actual prices? Who knows? I have a 32 GTSt 2dr. I wouldn't part with it for <$30k. If someone offered me $40k right now, I sill wouldn't actually sell it. There's one for sale on carsales for $45. R34s (2dr) should notionally be worth more, simply because newer, slightly better platform, etc. The ones on carsales are very speculatively priced in the 40s, 50s and 60s. 4drs are worth less because they are less cool, but they can't be worth a lot less because they are functionally the same car.

More like low fuel pressure.

Anything over ~150-200 kkm. That's where a well maintained engine starts to show the inevitable signs of increasing clearances in bearings, valve guides, etc.

Maybe not bother with RBs at all and put in a Euro V8, big yank V8, VK56DE, Barra, etc etc. For sure, if I had a bare shell and nothing to start with, I would not start with a bloody RB.

Neo rods are 26 rods anyway. So any aftermarket 26 rod is same same also. The trouble with the Neo is that because they used the 26 rods, they had to have a piston with a 2mm (or maybe it's only 1.5mm) pin height difference so they don't poke out of the block. Those Neo pistons have a different dome (to vanilla 25s and 26s) to work with the ~10cc smaller combustion chamber, to yield approx the same compression ratio as all the previous engines. But you can't use the Neo pistons with the 26 crank.....because then the 2mm stroke difference brings back the deck height problem. So you end up needing to use 26 pistons. But....the 26 pistons are suited to a 10cc larger combustion chamber, resulting in sky high compression. This would commit you to E85, large cams and careful tuning. I haven't done the calculation to work out what the compression would be (well, not in the last 15 years anyway) so can't really tell you how high it would be. I just remember it was "quite high", something north of 11:1 I reckon. The last time I thought about it was pre-E85 in the world, so maybe it's more realistic now. It's not very realistic on 98 though. But, this seems like a complete waste of time. 100cc is an undetectable increase in capacity (4% !!). You would do better to spend money on turbo or headwork. The oil pump drive can be dealt with the on the 25 crank as easily as on any other RB.

There's nothing wrong with the car at all. That rust is nothing. Hang the halo on the bedpost and drive the car. Or completely strip it and factory rebirth it for $200k. Anything in between is almost certainly a waste of time and resources.

Here's how it works. You have a wheel that clears the brakes. You have a wheel that only just doesn't clear the brakes. You also can see and mark exactly where the caliper contacts the wheel. You therefore have two wheels that you can very carefully measure and build a model of in Google Sketchup, or anything similar. You can then mark on that model where the clearance problems lie. You can provide that model to any wheel supplier and get them to tell you which of their wheels are larger (than the caliper, than the CE) at the critical locations. Effort in = reward out.

There would have to be dozens of threads on here for the same thing. Have a decent search. Translation: I know there are dozens of threads on here with links to the pinout diagram. Not to mention, it is in the R32 GTR workshop manual (Yes, even for the RB20) which has been freely downloadable for 2 decades and I recently uploaded some even better scans than those. But I am too tired to do the searching for you.

Do you need a 24V battery charger? It's only 24V. Not 12.

That's actually the problem. It is worth US$80k. In that someone will pay that much for it. In fact, given that the owner seemed to know so little about it, he had probably just paid something like that for it.