GTSBoy

They could be good, or they could struggle. I'd be worried that they're not good enough. It's not as if Splitfires are actually any better than brand new OEM coils. They're just the same technology level, well made. This would be my approach to anything above 400kW these days. Eliminate the possibility of trouble. 8 is probably wise. I would want to be running fu(k tons more than 0.6mm gap. That's sufficient argument for R35 coils straight away.

It's because it is the easiest to see and touch. Do not underestimate the laziness and stupidity of your typical Skyline modifier.

Not the smartest place to interfere with the vacuum lines because if you manage to have a problem (ie, it falls off/open) you get uncontrolled boost at the same time that you don't get boost referenced fuel pressure. Ideal for rapidly beating the engine to death.

He'll hate me for it, because he doesn't like dirty Renault motors, but take it to Fours'n'more. He'll take a proper look at it and hopefully work out whether it's a buggered lifter, VCT solenoid/actuator, timing chain guide, f**ked bottom end, etc etc. They're at Pooraka, but that's only 15 minutes up the road.

Almost certainly won't fit at the front Z31 has very low height at the front of the engine bay. RB30/2Xs already don't fit in R32s without chopping stuff (bonnet ribs) where the timing cover hits. I don't have any problem with you wanting to put a 3L in there....I just think that a V6 would likely be the sensible choice, as horrible as that is to have to say. But, if you do go RB30, don't f**k about with RB26 head. Let some other Yank pay GTR tax for that. Use the better RB25 Neo head. Internet points for RB26 are nothing compared to better actual performance.

Where else will I be able to exercise my dry wit?

That's not the only thing that has to happen. There also has to be unicorns, fairies and Willie Wonka in such a world.

Not vanilla. N1 turbos.

RWD R32 with a lot of power is just wheelspin city, if it is also set up to go around corners.

Yeah, well, I should avoid chucking stones inside my glass house. Standard turbo still on my Neo, for example. But it's not quite the same level of suck. Actually, it probably is. But it's not a GTR. A GTR deserve a lot more turbo.

I find it hard to believe that there are GTRs out there with the standard turbos still on. I cannot imagine how anyone could have put up with them for this long.

I think that is a physical impossibility.

GTR fitment on a GTST. All the poke.

2 near death experiences in one day. Kudos.

Shit! I missed this. You poor/silly bastard. Time to consider some 5/2 fasting or similar**. Good for helping with cholesterol issues, along with all the other stuff. **But only after speaking to your quack, of course.

On the stock temperature gauge, if it moves off of the centre at all, it is getting pretty hot. On a proper coolant temperature gauge, anything over a real 110°C is starting to be concerning. On an oil temperature gauge, anything over 120°C should prompt you to not use a lot of revs or load. Anything over 130°C is starting to get quite concerning.

Break out the multimeter and start trying to find where the power is and isn't.

You mean the pedal feels exactly the same as before, but the engine does not respond to it, right?

Not really. Humidity doesn't really enter into the equation for a car. The radiator works about the same regardless. Humidity is really only an issue when you use evaporative cooling (ie, your sweat). 30+ is not hot. Summer down here is 35-45. In 35° heat my car is fine. It's typically fine in 40° heat - although the oil temperature is certainly rising by the end of a 40 minute drive home after work. 45°C is also fine, just the oil gets hot earlier. All of this is with AC on (OK, well, except for the 35° case, because who needs AC at that temperature?). But I'll happily drive with the window down at 45° with no AC, and the car will keep going forever like that. If you're suffering at 30ish, try it without the AC. I'm assuming you're using AC because it's humid and you don't want to be sticky. Just try it, see what the car shows. Also, what is the state of the fan clutch? Does it lock up reasonably when it's hot, or does it continue to spin quite freely? If it's pretty loose, that could be your culprit. They usually fail towards lockup rather than sloppy, but anything is possible.

Got an air plate between the grille and the top of the rad support? Got sealing around the edges and bottoms of the rad and intercooler? Effort put into forcing all the air to go through those cores instead of allowing paths around them can be very well spent. Seal up the gaps to the undertray, etc etc, down the sides. Just use sticky backed Bunnings foam for a first pass test to see if you gain anything and if it's worth putting more effort in with sheet metal. I've just used corflute for some of this. Cheap, light, painted black you'd not know that it wasn't factory plastic.

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place. Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed. Throttle doesn't retard. What exactly are you saying? What does the boost gauge say? What is the fuel pressure? What is the AFM voltage at the time?

Just need a bigger rad core.

If you're going to use detergents, then gentle laundry liquids like wool wash are a much better choice. Dishwashing liquid is a pretty harsh detergent.

Comp tests are like dynos. Unless you use the same one under the same conditions, comparing across the internet can never answer any questions, only cause more questions.

Look up S15 helical. And it's not the R&P gears that make noise, or LSD action.