GTSBoy

CU is Control Unit. ECU is Engine CU. TCU is Transmission CU. etc.

I don't understand. That is not stretching the tyres onto the wheels at all. The correct tyre size for an 8.5 " wheel would be 235 or 245. A stretch would be a 225. Cramming a 265 on there is a big, baggy bulbour 1970s style fitment.

Yes, that is the definition of Nissan Consult. All the CUs are on the bus. Any Snap-On, or similar scan tol, as possessed by ANY decent mechanic these days, WILL read all the CUs. I worked out what was wrong with my HICAS using a workshop grade scan tool.....20 years ago.

This ^. Jap cams are bland.

It is an RB25. Definitely use a 25 map. The only thing that is "26" about it is the capacity, and capacity does not matter. The AFM will take care of telling the ECU how mush air it is breathing.

How is your TCU doing a good job of running the tranny when it is not communicating with the ECU? The TCU and ECU need to talk to each other and usually get quite shitty when they can't. The auto ECUs know how to talk to the TCU, but the manual ECUs are autistic and refuse to communicate.

No. That's the only difference in the engine wiring. Re-read what has been said above. But for clarity: The NA auto cars have a separate TCU. The tranny loom is wired to that TCU. The turbo cars have the TCU in the ECU. All the tranny TCU wiring reports to the ECU plug. Only, when you plug your ECU into the ECU loom plug......where are the tranny wires? Still on the other side of the car connected to a TCU that is not connected to the ECU. The turbo ECU does not want to talk to the remote TCU. It only wants to talk to the TCU that it has inside itself.

Ha. I skipped right over that part. Kinks is correct. GTT ECU is not going to run the N/A auto. Also will not run the GTT auto in the NA body unless the loom is also properly swapped in.

You get the base map from the Nistune ROM pack. You will need to do config to account for different injector size, etc, to get it to fire up. There is no "base map" for what you have.

Ha! Relevant thought is relevant.

Yeah, can't fault ACS. They gave me a near complete replacement on a clutch that I had been dailying for years when it did something weird and turned one of the springs inside out. They couldn't explain why it shat itself, couldn't blame me for such an odd failure, so just ponied up. I would have been happy with any contribution from them at all, let alone nearly all of it.

As Murray said, if it's just for trackdays buy a Sparco or Velo fixed back with appropriate mounts. Technically you should take it to the track and fit it there rather than drive to the track in it..... but take your pick of what type of inconvenience you'll put up with.

Like this. https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-front-lower-control-arms-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html And the cheapo hoo-flung-dung brand ones on eBay also.

Hmm. I hadn't realised the GK-Tech R34 arms were -0+30mm. That only allows you to remove camber compared to stock arms at the same height. Their R32 arms are -15+20mm and allow you to have a bit of extra neg camber even at stock height, and lots of neg at any lowered height. There are aftermarket longer lower arms from Driftworks and the like, isn't there?

There are dozens of adjustable camber arms out there for the front of 34s. I would use GK-Tech (I have GK-Tech on my 32 - different design, but still....) and all the others are chinabay clones of the other simpler type.

Yeah, that's ^ pretty much the meat of the matter. The other states may or may not be different wrt how hard it is to get a seat install approved. I think it is possible here (in SA) but shudder to think what the additional cost would be, relative to the cost of the seats themselves.

No. If you wanted to get aftermarket seats with aftermarket mounts legal then you would need to get an engineer to do a report on the mounting system and sign off on it. What level of testing that requires is a bit unclear to me. There are obviously any number of motor trimmers, etc, that fit Recaros to all sorts of vehicles, who probably know exactly which engineer to talk to. (Not suggesting that they know which engineer will do anything shonky to make it easier for them - just which engineers have the best approach to the task). Alternatively, they may have had to do some possibly destructive testing on the mounts that they use, and once they have approval based on that they might get some sort of type approval to keep using them in the same vehicle type with the same range of seats. All I know is that if you go look at your state's vehicle standards website they will have something on there that says that seats must have OEM mountings or be approved.

As long as there is pleb pricing, fleet pricing, auto club member pricing, pricing for leasing companies, etc etc, there will be ways to work around any "fixed" pricing that might be mandated. As long as it is possible to buy a dealer demo, even if it has only done 350m off the back of the truck, through the forecourt and into the delivery centre, for a different price, because it is no longer strictly "new", there will be ways to beat the system. Etc.

That's because the rails are Japanese Bride, and the seats are Chinese copies. The Bride rails pricing wrt proper Bride seats looks more reasonable - a real Bride seat is a ~$2000 proposition. Whilst it is important that the rails/mounts be very high quality (even more so than the seats!), even the Jap Bride rails are not ADR approved. The "ADR approval" on the seats is pretty meaningless if the rails are non-compliant and/or not engineered.

The front steering rack is not piped to anything HICAS. The PS pump has a front stage and a rear stage. The front stage is piped to the front rack. The rear stage is piped to the rear rack (via the HICAS solenoid sets in the engine bay and at the rear). They only come close to each other at the pump. If you want to delete all the HICAS stuff, just pull it out. But, you will need to do something about the rear stage of the pump. There have been many posts on what and how to do that. The best way is to keep it and just pump PS fluid through it to a cooler and back. I replaced my R32 pump with an R34 pump, which is only a single stage pump. Of course, it came bolted to the Neo engine that I put in, but it's up to you to decide if that is the easier or harder way to change the pump situation.

Any of the places on the SEVS list that were importing them.

You don't need to change the rack. I didn't.

If those are the fuel lines, then it's fuel. Those hoses are very old. Nothing lasts forever.

2% of f**k all is less than 5% of f**k all which is 2/3 of the threshold for giving a f**k.

Clown. Have never done something like that myself. No. Never.