GTSBoy

Not necessarily "normal" behaviour. But there might be nothing "wrong" with the tracker. It's far more likely that your battery is crap and can't tolerate what would otherwise be a completely acceptable current drain. Put an ammeter in the power lead to the tracker. Report how much it's using.

That's sad. Any decent private workshop down here has at least one good scan tool.

But that was always clear.

The way is the way that I have always preached. Go to workshop with a proper scan tool. Takes 5s to hook up and read out.

HICAS CU could be going into fault after that time.

Yeah, and none of it did any good to us! Just makes life harder.

No, it's the opposite of super random. It is 100% fixed. Tends to suggest that the display is not getting the value that you want it to. 85% is likely one end of the possible range.....

nah, that's TCS.

T stands for Transmission, not Traction. It's a standard acronym* used when talking about controlling autos. *although it does not meet the definition of an acronym, which is an abbreviation that can be pronounced as if it was a word.

The TCUs like to talk to the (factory) ECU, so they know what is going on. Take the factory ECU away from them and they pack a sulk. If you want to do that, you need an aftermarket ECU that can pretend (to the TCU) to be the factory ECU, to keep it happy.

The R32 GTR workshop manual has had RB20DET wiring diagrams in it for the last 30 years.

In through the main air inlet hose that is. Don't confuse the water passage with the air passage.

Mine was giving grief recently. I alternated doses of carby cleaner, WD40 and Subaru upper engine cleaner until it started controlling again. Did not feel like taking it off.

99% it is the IACV.

Yuh.

From recent experience, the very best stuff for this is signboard. It's the stuff they use for real estate signs and the like. Thin sheetmetal each side of a thin plastic core. ~3mm thick. You can score it to bend it. You can roll it around a mandrel to make a radiused bend. With a couple of little bends put into it it becomes massively stiff, because it's already pretty stiff, being a composite construction. Duck's nuts for undertray/ducting work like that.

So, the sarcasm went right over your head?

It's unlikely that an engineer, particularly a Japanese one, would work in grams per second as a flow rate. Far more likely to work in molar units. The molar weight of air is 28.8, which is intriguingly close to the ~23.5 number that you came up with as a "factor" - but far enough different to probably not be it. I'd bet they were working in standard or normal volume units (which are basically a mass unit because any volume at a set pressure and temperature will always contain the same mass of the same gas).

A long time ago K was the only tool available. Matt has since added another way to deal with rescaling for different injectors and AFMs that doesn't f**k up all the TP limits and other stuff that hangs off it. Also prevents you having to extend the load axes on the maps. I went to all the trouble to extend the maps (both load and revs) and then interpolate and extrapolate before he did that. It would have been a lot easier if I had waited a few months (this was years ago) until the update, because I would have only had to do it in one direction (revs) and not the load axis. Anyway, fear not. Play with it extensively. if you f**k it up, you only have to put it back the way it was before the f**kup.

You don't need to even rescale maps any more.

It's definitely a case of "it doesn't matter". TP stands for "Theoretical Pulse". I'm an engineer who does combustion for a living and really couldn't be bothered trying to do what you've just tried to do. Waste of time. Doesn't matter. it's just a load scaler. Adjust K to make the mixture right is about as hard as it needs to be.

But is it really? Just because prices have gone up, doesn't make these cars any better. They're still the same dirty old Nissan shitbox they were 6 years ago. There is nothing "magical" about a factory turbo Skyline. There;e never been anythign magical about an NA shitter that has been converted, even if absolutely everything on the car has been swapped to turbo spec. The fact that the cars are worth more right now doesn't mean that dropping a bunch of cash on turbo converting an NA has become a better idea. The car hasn't improved, only the market's perception of what it's worth, which is close to meaningless.

So, let's unwind this a little. 1. You had blown fuse. Replaced it, and the relay. New fuse remains good. 2. ??? 3. Profit? But seriously, is the pump running? If it is not running, is it at least getting power onto its wiring when it is supposed to? What tests have you done? Listen for pump? Multimeter on the power wire? Fuel pressure gauge? If we presume that it is not running, having failed any or all of the above tests, that would explain why you're trying to pull it out, yeah? So at what point in the process of pulling it out are you having trouble? Have you unscrewed the clamp ring? IS the plastic hat just stuck on its seat/o-ring?

FFS! It was 6 years ago.

Did you search? I typed "convert R34 GTT to GTR site: www.sau.com.au" into google and got..... https://www.google.com.au/search?q=convert+R34+GTT+to+GTR+site:+www.sau.com.au&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjK9bKazcLtAhVywTgGHYbNC7MQBSgAegQIBRA0&biw=1765&bih=883