GTSBoy

You also need to do something fancy about the refrigerant pressure switch. The R32 one is 2 wire, I think the R34 one is 3 wire, and I think the R34 ECU doesn't want to work with the R32 switch. Needs some extra wire and a diode, or something else not too hard, but annoying to work out. Was done on mine, but I can't remember exactly what. Was 10 years ago.

Bad choices of words. On RB26s, because there is a direct shot from the turbo flanges at 2 of the exhaust ports, there have been many recorded instances of chunks of ceramic turbine getting up into the cylinders and causing carnage.

Resleeve it.

Said it before, will obviously have to say it again. An NA auto Skyline is a perfect candidate for a proper motor conversion. That would be an LS3 + TR6060.

Is there a way we could broadcast this to the entire world (ie the US)? Just for giggles, understand.

Don't make the mistake of thinking that the higher temperature numbers (ie 4300K, 5500K) mean the light is better, if that is what you were thinking. The light output of an HID is a function of the ballast. The capsule has to be able to take the drive power, but the ballast pretty much sets the drive power.

Oil control thread stickied at the top of the forum gives the recipe. Rear head drains don't offer enough. You need to add big direct vents hoses from sump (above oil level) to cam covers, to allow the gases to flow up there, while the oil sneaks back down the original holes in the head/block.

That's not quite true, but true enough for this particular application. You certainly can't replace the HID capsule with an LED source in existing headlights. But there are certainly very many LED headlights available now. Ignoring the shit that dribbles out of chinafactorybackdoor#3, some of these are even very good. If you have HID projectors in a popular enough car, there is likely to be a kit to change them to LED. You can get 100% LED replacement headlights for R32, for example, and the LEDs are probably close on as good as good HIDs. I won't disagree on the colour temperature, but it's actually more the CRI (colour reproduction index) that is the biggest problem with LEDs. Because white LEDs use phosphors to produce a stripe of red, a stripe of green and a stripe of blue, with nothing else from the visible spectrum in there, you get this horrible flat light that doesn't show up contrast in different colours. Shine a conventional light onto the bushes etc on the side of the road and you can see the different greens. With LEDs, all those greens end up looking the same sort of colourless grey. That's where they need to improve. All modern cars with LED headlights are tiring to drive because of this, no matter how good the LEDs are otherwise in terms of brightness and pattern.

I would have said it was not verboten. A nuanced interpretation of the "rules" suggests that it is quite reasonable to point out such discrepancies. More to the point, I would have thought that you could read English and therefore would be able to understand that point that was being made. To whit, if you can't prove what's in it, then it probably isn't justified to ask what you're asking. As such I was indicating that the onus of proof is on the seller. I also mentioned that the buyer should put as much effort into deciding the value as they feel prepared to. Um, yep. As the onus of proof is on you, you could possibly have waited until you had such proof before going in with your strong price point. If you have hedged your bets and decided that your price point was partway between what it might be worth with proof, and what a reasonable buyer might think it's worth without, then you have done yourself a disservice because it would be difficult to increase your opening price in this advert. Cart before horse, etc etc.

I'm with Ben. Without demonstration, the value is arguably less than the asking price. Caveat emptor has always been the watchword. People are free to approach such a sale and purchase however they want.

There's no such thing. Aftermarket fuel pump is aftermarket. Any time you buy an aftermarket pump, you will always have to something to make it fit. Some are trivial, some take 5s more work.

Just put a Walbro 255 or similar in it. You need more than the stock GTT pump anyway. Nistune is the correct choice for a not-expensive-but-capable ECU. You will need to upgrade the clutch, the brakes, and the diff. If you still have the open diff, it will suck.

Stuck on along their length with double sided tape?

I think my point is that - it's not a problem, so why worry about it?

So, you say it only does it when you hold it in neutral at 2000rpm? So, don't do that.

No. Magnitude of voltage is not the answer. It's pulses per second, after all.

It's not agro. It's exasperation. Rainman rocking in the corner makes more sense than spending 3s thinking about why a particular car came without a stereo. My car has some unusual options on it. I found out that they were unusual options, went...."OK".... and got on with mowing the lawn or painting the gutters or whatever the hell else I had going on in my life that day.

That's because even people who have been here for 25 years don't care about such trivialities. It's a f**king Japanese 2-door sports coupe that was made in the hundreds of thousands, and crushed and crashed in numbers nearly as large. We like them, but we don't wear anoraks about them.

Stay under 300rwkW. Enjoy life. Don't chase numbers.

Whatever it is, it's not attractive. Ruins the whole R32 shape.

It's trivial if the ECU can be adjusted to suit. ie Nistune.

That is for card AFMs like R35 ones. And no, you cannot cut up a plastic AFM (ie, Z32) and weld it to metal.

Oh.

Check all the small coolant hoses around the inlet manifold, heater hoses, etc, and the big rad hoses to see if any are likely to to explode and leave you stranded with a cooked engine. Take along a selection of heater hose and small bore hose and some clamps if you're even more paranoid, plus coolant, etc.

Two body brackets & bushes. Two droplinks.