GTSBoy

GT is the next to bottom NA car. GT-V was halfway to GT-T, whilst still being NA. Had A lot of the chassis/driveline differences from the GT-T on it.

'scool.

Dude, it's not the 1970s any more. Even shit grade oil is 100x better than the best oil used to be 30 years ago. Yes, I would put supermarket brand oil in my RB25 if I had to. It would work fine. I don't because I can afford to use the good Penrite stuff. I don't subscribe to the magic swan juice school of lubrication fanboi-sm that circulates in the Jap import world though.

As a matter of fact, I am a combustion engineer, aerodynamicst and supervisor of the engineers who do the CFD at my company. I am comfortably capable, thankyou very much.

I'm of the opinion that gearbox oil is gearbox oil.

If you don't need it, don't use it. Normal Castrol or Nulon or Royal bumblebee or just about anything else.

If it doesn't crunch, it's not f**ked. My box would not select ANY gear from neutral with the engine running, with normal oil in it, when I first put the box in. (it felt fine with no engine when I bought it!, which is why I bought it). We dropped the fresh oil out and put the blue shit in and it started to work. Been like that ever since.

It is a bandaid. Not to be used in a good box. I have had it in my box which was pretty f**ked when I put it in, for......um..... nearly 10 years, and it has done no damage that I can notice from using the box.

Probably never been done for the reasons and in the manner that you want to. Deletion is easy. Relocation is a pioneering effort. Going to put it on the rear firewall behind the front passenger?

What's the difference between a plenum for a straight 5 cylinder and a straight 6? It's one more, isn't it? /Nigel Tufnell

Does google image search not work for you?

Why? What makes the RB26 special? It's just a plenum.

Audi rally engine plenum from the 80s is a good example of how long ago the idea has been around.

It will be loud, drony, harsh and f**king awful.

I forgot to rag on the fact that HKS will want you to pay a squillion Yen for the pleasure of putting a bunch of stuff onto your car that you could have done yourself for a very small fraction of the price.

This is a load of crap. 1. Vertical turbos. Sorry, they ain't vertical. They are no more of an angle than RB26 turbos have been aftermarket mounted for 20 years. 2. TJI as a retrofit? In your dreams bitch. 3. The plenum is very similar to several sketches that I did and can possibly be found posted on peformanceforums about 15 years ago. Granted, I was sketching for a VG30, but it's the same idea had by me and probably 20000 other people. And the rest of it is nothing that hasn't been done by the rest of the aftermarket industry for years. The ignition mods for example. The only place where HKS has ever led in this area is the VCAM stuff.

Exhaust to suit turbo will sound like loud arse on an NA.

It's often an exhaust/turbo gasket.

Nissan/Import wreckers. The classifieds here and on other import focused forums. FB (ugh, shudder) groups and marketplace. Importers in Japan, such as Jesse Streeter and Import Monster. These guys can get stuff from Yahoo auctions in Japan for you if necessary.

Yeah, nah. The weight is nothing compared to the forces applied through the bolts.

I think you can lift the head off with both sides still attached. But you're not contemplating taking the head back off, are you?

I think you should be fine to just back them off, do the last two stages again. You haven't hit the "right" torque values on the way up last time, and if you are as low as you think you are, you probably haven't started to yield the bolts. if you have started to yield the bolts, they should be only "just" started, and I can't imagine that backing them off and bringing them all the way to their proper torque would be worse than just doing it right the first time.

In the R34 service manual that you can google and download.

Get the wiring diagram out. Remove the headlight switch loom plug and probe for where the power is supposed to be. That will tell you if you've missed something upstream (like the real fuse that you should have checked). Probe for continuity across switch terminals that are supposed to be continuous when turned on. Plug it back and in and probe to see if power turns up on the output side of the switch. Etc etc etc. Somewhere there will be a wire that is broken or burnt, or a fuse that is is open, or a switch that has melted or burnt in the wrong position. The wiring diagram shows you what you need to be looking for, and where.

Plus the pineapples, probably. Stopping the subframe from flapping around can keep the tyre pressed to the ground a bit better too.