GTSBoy

Just report your own post and ask that it be brought to his attention.

She broke.

But when you say "OEM"....you don't actually mean "OEM" as in Nissan. You just mean OEM style, right? In which case, look at B6s.

Loose connection.....on just about ANYTHINg involved in running the engine. Battery terminal, ignition keyswitch, ECU loom plug, CAS loom plug, AFM loom plug, coilpack loom, etc etc etc. Or, it could be a fault in the CAS or AFM, etc etc etc.

Do you want to be cheap? Or do you want to buy decent dampers? Because Bilstein B6 is the minimum that I would recommend for direct fit dampers. Nothwithstanding that, I just typed "r34 kyb rear" into google and the first 2 hits were for an eBay listing and the actual web shop of this crowd here in Oz offering this https://www.superspares.com.au/2-rear-kyb-new-sr-special-shock-absorbers-for-niss~12193763

Neutral switch is on the RHS of the gearbox towards the front. There are 2 switches. One for neutral, one for reverse. You can try shorting the wires together to see if the ECU sees neutral. Google for pictures showing which switch is which.

Try to find the manual for the Clarion on the web? It should say how it's wired up.

Same thing, just in the opposite direction, no? The motor will go in one direction when you give it power one way, the other direction when you give it power the other way. If it will go one way and not the other, it tends to suggest that the switch that controls the connection of those + & - wires to the motor is up the shit, no? Generally (or at least usually) with these things, you need both switches (driver's and passenger's) for the passenger's window to work, because they are both in the circuit. When one is giving trouble, the other one can't make the window work.

Did you read the big post?

What he sed^. There's also a wierd halfway-Neo engine that appeared in Stageas at some point. It's got some Neo stuff on it, but is probably not a Neo inside. But whatever the case. There's no point/benefit to the proposed swap. It's either the same dog, or the one you have already is better.

Just about any double DIN car stereo with a big LCD screen would have a video input for reversing cameras. I don't know about how the signal and screen are activated in your car. AFAIK R33s didn't come with this stuff. Are you talking about some later V series or Stagea? Actually, I don't even know how the camera and screen are activated in those later cars either. But it is quite possible that there is a "reverse" wire that comes from the gear shifter reverse switch or from the BCM that would tell the stereo to switch over to reverse camera mode. Or, it could be that the stereo automatically does so whenever the camera signal goes live.

Neutral switch maybe. Just fix it. The rest of the data? Nope. all normal.

Why would it not?

Is that you Johnny?

Yeah, nah. Cap should seal. Tank vapours should vent through the carbon canister in the engine bay. If that hose run is compromised, then yes, pressure could build.

There is quite a chance that running it with a large air pocket in it has overheated something and done the HG or cracked something, per what the others have said. The bleeding funnel I mentioned is not a bleeder on the rad cap. It's a funnel that goes where the rad cap is, to increase the head height of the rad to help get water in and air out. Makes the highest point in the system right up high above the rad cap. Same as the cut coke bottle mentioned above. Needs to seal in the rad cap throat fairly well though, otherwise it won't work.

The speedo drives in the small and large boxes are not compatible. And as the OP has found, the autos don't cross pollinate with the manuals either. So the correct answer for the OP is what he has asked for, which is a drive to suit an RB20 small box. Which I can't help with. They will be getting thin on the ground now.

Old hose cracked.

More likely it wasn't actually bled the first time. You don't want to hear it, but it's almost certainly the case. Got a bleeding funnel for the rad cap?

The trouble is that a deep fixed back seat interferes with the stock belt holding you in. Really needs to come through the openings in the seat to have a hope of fitting across the pelvis and touching the shoulders. On that basis, it's not kosher for the street either. A shallow enough fixed back seat to work with the stock belt is probably not worth the effort to do, if you know what I mean.

Define "bucket seats". Do you mean fixed back seats? You cannot have them in a 2 door car with back seats, because they must be tilt and slide seats that allow rear passengers to escape in an emergency. If you fit fixed back seats, then the car must be engineered without back seat occupancy. If you change to aftermarket seats, the mounts/rails/supports are actually the most important part and must be engineered.

You need to 100% know what diff is in the car before you change anything. Do not buy a thing until you know what centre you have, what stub axles, etc.

The stock viscous diff is a piece of crap. No good at 200rwkw, let alone 300. Although, if your car is an S2 with a helical diff.....then helicals are a good thing. Not ideal for the track, but should be good. But there are only probably about 10 cars in Australia with stock helicals (at least that's what it seems like).

Yeah - the diff. Something I thought about and forgot to get to mentioning. If the diff is a stock VLSD, forget about it. You need a proper mech 1 or 1.5 way.

It's a legit diagnostic tool. What does it smell like, at least? Brake fluid? Gear oil? Possum piss?