GTSBoy

MAGA in a single image.

How is this even a question? Of course it will fit.

There is circuitry to take the AC signal from the sender and make the needle move. That appears to be working. There is other circuitry that takes the AC signal from the sender and transmits it as the PWM signal on the bis. That could be borked. It happens.

Turbo choice 4, on a VR38

So, we're not talking about wheel speed here. VSS is on the gearbox, not a wheel. The VSS sends an AC signal to the speedo head, where it is converted to a PWM (square wave) 0-5V signal that the ECU, HICAS, TCU, etc all read on the vehicle bus. If you want to measure the presence of that signal at the ECU it is best done with a scope of some sort, rather than a multimeter, as you won't reliably see it with a meter. The speedo head might be faulty.

Don't touch what you don't have to touch.

Yeah, so it's not the injectors. It does sound as though it is completely f**ked. There sounds to be bottom end bearing noise, but there also sounds to be lifters with waaaaaaay too much clearance in there. Take it apart.

That will depend on why it has 4 terminals. Is it a single driver with twin voice coils? Is it an isobaric box with two drivers? (Actually, if the answer to either of those questions is yes then there's probably little difference in how you wire it up). Twin coil drivers will either have 2x 8 ohm voice coils or, more likely, 2x 4 ohm voice coils. Wire them up in series and you get double the resistance and half the power. (ie, 8 ohm coils in series gives 16 ohms, 4 ohm coils in series gives 8 ohms). Wire them up in parallel and you get half the resistance and double the power (8s give 4, 4s give 2). And note also that when I say "half" and "double", I mean half and double of what the single coils give you. The two results will be a factor of 4 different from each other. ie, for the 4 ohm coils case, you get 8 ohms or 2 ohms for the two options. Whether you can drive a 2 ohm load will depend on your amplifier. It is possible, but not be taken for granted. If the box is an isobaric, you must drive both drivers. If the box is a single driver with dual coils, you do have the option of driving only one coil - so in the 4 ohm case you actually do have the choice of a 2 ohm, 4 ohm and an 8 ohm load for the amp. There are many factors around pluses and minuses in these options that you should research. But the main factor here is you need to know what you have, because all of what I said above can't help you if you don't know what you have and what your amp can drive.

So, something changed recently.

You mean size or brand/spec?

Or there is some fuzz in one or more of your measurements. Shaft speed could be wrong....

Probably misunderstanding. The compressor map should be viewed as a statement of fact. If the shaft speed is Z and the PR is Y, then the flow on the X axis that corresponds to that operating point is what the turbo is flowing. That flow is happening regardless of the restriction caused by the EMAP. If the EMAP were some different value and your turbo was operating at that same point, the flow would still be the same value. Make sense? I think the element of surprise exhibited by other posters above is that the operating point you describe sounds like you shoudl be making more power than you think you are, which starts to throw some doubt on the factiness of the compressor map (or perhaps the measurements you have to put the operating point on the map).

The HICAS CU controls power steering. It might be unhappy with you disconnecting HICAS solenoids. If that's the case, it's not insurmountable. I have completely removed all HICAS hardware from my car except the CU. Many years prior to that, because of a steering sensor fault, I just disconnected the smaller of the two plugs on the CU. That prevented the steering sensor fault from putting the HICAS into lockout (which wasn't a good place to be, trust me!) and kept the light off the dash. The HICAS CU still appears to be happy with the situation many years since removing the rest of the hardware. So I suggest you try disconnecting that plug first. But there are other ways that the power steering can die. I once had my oxygen sensor die with a short in the power wire that runs its heating element. That power wire runs in the same loom next to the wire running down to the steering rack, and that wire got damaged by the loom short and I lost assistance. Dead heavy. Real hard to find the problem, but an easy fix once found. I'm sure there are other secret squirrel ways it can die. You would be advised to start at the assistance solenoid on the rack and see what voltage is present, work backwards from there.

Seems logical. Go looking for it. The manual shows you what you're looking for.

A good one is tall and narrow, not shallow and wide.

This is combo P & T right? So the actual most important use of that sensor is P, with T being not quite as vital to know. The place to measure P is at the supply side to the engine. You want to know what pressure the bearings are seeing.

No offence intended to the OP, by the way.

And also to moderate/mediate the various threads started with "I wanna get a seq box and woz thinkin ppg but the horror storiez bro".

The whine is barely audible in your video. There were some alarming clacking noises early in the video. The fan WILL come off with the radiator in place. We've all done it. Fan shroud off. Small ratchet. Job done.

Well, 2 points about that need to be made. 1. The factory compressor bypass valve doesn't do very much to relieve stress on the turbo, largely because that is not why it is there. It is not really a BOV. Keep in mind that the factory boost pressure on R32 RB20s is only 10 psi, and on RB25s is only ~7 psi. This is not enough boost to justify a "BOV" for the purposes of venting excess pressure in the intake tract. The reality is that the factory "BOV" is a compressor bypass valve. It is intended to be open when there is some vacuum in the inlet manifold, so that the intake air can go around the compressor instead of through it. This unloads the compressor (so there is less power required to drive it) so that it can and will be spun up to a higher speed just under those "cruise" conditions than it would if the air had to go through the comp wheel. Thus, when you add throttle opening and would like some boost, it is closer to making boost than it would have been. It is simply a device for improving response. Which is exactly what people claim it is for, just with the wrong reasoning behind it. 2. You will barely notice the absence of the bypass valve and many people claim that they actually work better without it anyway. So, don't panic. But fit a stocker if you like.

Welcome. But Don't do this.

Normal on every car.

50 shot of nitrous.

Are you asking what the procedure is? Is not the next thing to just type in to google - "ring bedding procedure" ?

Yes, hence why I suggested that the rings were not bedded in properly. There is a procedure to make a new engine work properly. If you do not follow it, you will glaze the bores and you can forget about it every being any good after that.