GTSBoy

It's GCG. Not CGC. You could no doubt get Tao (Hypergear) to rebuild you a stock Hitachi turbo with wheels that are not much different in capacity to the original. He would have to have access to plenty of turbines and compressors that are approximately the same as the stockers. It's just that no-one would want to pay the rebuild cost for a turbo that could have been an actual highflow instead. It will cost the same. A small highflow will work against the stock ECU. But an important point to remember is that any highflow will flow more gas (and therefore air) at the same boost as stock, so will definitely push your operating point in the ECU's fuel and ignition tables further to the right. In RB25 ECUS, this will lead to more richness and less timing, which is not great. Will use more fuel and make less power than it otherwise could. An actual proper highflow, a better ECU, some injectors and an AFM are sensible modifications.

Sigh. What ECU?

Yes, but....make sure that you are prepared for bearings, because you will be exposing at least the rod bearings and when you do and find that they are f**ked, you would be equally f**ked (in the head) to put them back in that way. And if the rod bearings are f**ked, there's better than even money on the mains. And.....front and and rear main seals, plus a timing belt and a water pump, because you would also be insane to not replace them while access is easy. And look for broken exhaust studs. Plus a full gasket set, etc. Make sure you have the money required to put it back together ready, instead of sitting in a pile of parts until you scrap the whole lot!

Don't even have 400. Wouldn't mind 500. Can't see how I could use much more.

Yes, because that will fix the cylinder sealing issue. Yes, and it will cost whatever your parts cost is, plus a few grand. Your parts cost will depend on how baller your parts are. $15k buys pretty good parts and work for just a bottom end freshen up. But it is impossible to say whether it is good value or not without a complete list of what's included in terms of both parts and labour and machining.

Any more than ~500 engine HP is almost certainly a waste of time for a street car. But the UAE is not the real world, so real world rules do not apply.

Serious? They were like....random. Mass produced Nissan of the late 80s-early 90s. My doors are 5mm front and rear (and have only dropped slightly, so are still visibly even). My bonnet is like 2-3mm at the rear and and 4-5mm at the front end. That's GTR bonnet against GTSt guards, which probably shouldn't make any difference.

Apart from the bellhousing bolt holes onto the engine, there IS NO RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE GETRAG BOX AND THE NISSAN BOX. None. Nada. Zip. Nothing. Bupkiss.

Are you shopping for validation of your opinion? Or are you shilling?

Well, you're not going to be blending the Getrag with the Nissan.

I subscribe to all of the above solutions.

370. Same as all other RB25DETs.

Related. Not even in the same family tree.

It's not a link. Copy and paste it into the address bar of your computer's web browser.

https://www.google.com.au/search?source=hp&ei=Cd8bYOvJA7WW4-EPz529sAY&q=rb25+flywheel+bolt+torque&oq=rb25+flywheel+bolt+torque&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzICCAAyBggAEBYQHjoICAAQsQMQgwE6CwguELEDEMcBEKMCOgIILjoFCAAQsQM6CAguELEDEIMBOgUILhCxAzoFCAAQyQM6BQgAEJIDOggIABAWEAoQHlDvB1itS2CnWGgAcAB4AIAB1QGIAcEikgEGMC4yNC4xmAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpeg&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwir8v-_lNDuAhU1yzgGHc9OD2YQ4dUDCAg&uact=5

As if that's the only thing that needs replacing. Budget on doing every part in it that you can buy (because some parts can't be bought any more).

No. The butterfly is the throttle. It is the one and only control you have over how much air enters the engine and thus how fast you go. A fuel injection/carby specialist should be able to fix it for you. Would probably need bearings and/or seals.

It's not the alternator. If it has a Jap immobiliser, and you have depowered the car to change the battery, there is a better than even chance that the immobiliser is to blame. Can you take off and nuke it from orbit?

You can start with a better explanation and/or photos of exactly where the leak is. Gasket? Shaft? Corrosion hole?

Also, if the tuner tells you that the injector duty cycle shouldn't need to exceed 80%, and it is hitting 90%, then it could suggest a fuel supply problem. Dying pump, dirty filter, dirty injector(s), etc etc. Don't drive it hard until you've had it diagnosed.

Even money it's the ignition barrel switch. I have a little wierdness in my car that seems to point to that, but it's so intermittent that it's very hard to prove one way or the other without disassembling shit that I don't feel like disassembling!

I would have said that perhaps every RB30 head that was not on an engine at the moment was quite possibly cracked. Possibly being the reason it is no longer on an engine.....

3x as old, twice the mileage. Orphan. Not a turbo coupe. Therefore the RAV4 is better in every way. If you're cross shopping these things and RAV4s, you already recognise that there's no difference between a jacked up Camry and a jacked up (Skyline?), for driving around the suburbs and using the extra ride height to clear the barkchips when you need to get it onto the lawn to wash it. The only saving grace would be the much larger engine. But my 2.5L RAV4 accelerates off the line well enough to get in front of the Mini Clubman in the next lane. How much more does it need?

Why would an old Skyline crossover be a better choice than the smartest possible choice in the segment (being a RAV4)? Typical example. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2017-toyota-rav4-gx-auto-awd/OAG-AD-19381813/?Cr=0&gts=OAG-AD-19381813&gtsSaleId=OAG-AD-19381813&gtsViewType=showcase&rankingType=showcase

Yeah. Nah.