GTSBoy

It's a legit diagnostic tool. What does it smell like, at least? Brake fluid? Gear oil? Possum piss?

Well, there's your problem..... Very ordinary tyre for that duty. But....there are many other things you would probably benefit from changign also. Yes. Yes. Bigger would be better. 245s might be OK with more sticky rubber. Alignment for circuit track will not necessarily be ideal for drag launches. Spring rates and damper rates for circuit will not necessarily be helpful for drag launches. Subframe alignment (or lack thereof) can be set to benefit lateral grip or to benefit launch grip. Can't be both. At least the R34 has got less anti-squat than the older (R32) rear ends do. But it can still be improved for launch.

What does it taste like?

Well, any time an ARB is too stiff at one end it will push that end towards loss of grip, particularly when the surface is slippery. So on the rear the trend is towards oversteer. Now, if you want the back end to be completely detached and you aim to drive it everywhere using spinning rear wheels to provide direction as well as thrust, that's good. But otherwise it can make the back end overly nervous, prone to mid-corner detachment, which is not fun. A quite stiff front bar (like you have now) will generally make the car's turn-in behaviour good. It will react to steering quickly and start turning the car, without that rolly feeling you get on soft barred setups. But if it is too stiff that can quickly turn into mid corner understeer immediately afterwards. When you put on a stiff front bar, you will generally need to beef up the rear bar too, otherwise the balance will very likely be shifted towards understeer. But going overboard generally leads to the situation in the 1st paragraph. Big bars also reduce the independence of the suspension across the car. So a big rear bar means bumps on the inside wheel get transferred to the outside wheel, which also contributes to the problem of sudden slip. The two philosophies of suspension are; Light springs, stiff bars. This is intended to allow full axle bumps to be absorbed (ie both wheels going up and down together because you've hit something in the road that covers the whole width of the axle) and the bars control body roll, Stiff springs, light bars. This means that the springs are responsible for controlling body roll, with the bars really only used for tuning the balance. Or, you could go anywhere in between. It's a spectrum baby.

There is no way that a 20mm solid bar on its "soft" setting will be anywhere near as soft as the 16mm solid bar. The change in arm length from "soft" to "hard" on a typical bar is about 20mm, on an arm length that is about 300mm, maybe a bit less. So, in the order of 10-15% change. The stiffness of solid bars varies with the FOURTH POWER of the thickness. Thus, the 20mm bar will be 244% of the stiffness of the 16mm bar. Or, 144% additional stiffness over the 16. A +/-10-15% change on that still leaves the 20mm bar over double the stiffness of the 16. When I put bars on my R32 I put adjustable 24mm on front and rear. Set stiff at the front, soft at the rear. Was too stiff at the rear. Replaced 24 rear with 22. 24mm bar is 141% of 22mm bar stiffness, or the other way to look at it is 22mm bar is only ~70% of 24mm bar. Damn near perfect. Could possibly handle being a 20mm, preferably adjustable. 'Twere I you, I would go with suggestion for 16mm bar. It will be 229% of the 13mm bar's stiffness (assuming the 13 is solid, which it probably is).

To be fair, a GPS speedo to heads up display is probably the best way to do this sort of bodge.

The S13 dash will require a +/- 1V sawtooth AC signal from the speed sender. It cannot tolerate a squarewave 0-1 or 0-5V signal. So make sure the Bluewire device can do that. I can't tell you about the S13 specifically, but it is very likely to be the same as R32 GTR. In which case, there are waveforms shown in the GTR service manual for the speed sender's signal for various roadspeeds. Just download it and have a look see. The S13 one should be in the same ballpark for pulse rate at speed. Of course, there's always the possibility that it is a few % different or even a factor of 2 or 3 different. Is there are useful S13 workshop manual equivalent to the GTR one available?

Wow. Notified that someone reacted to my post above (the first one from Oct 16) and realised just now that I completely hamfisted the signals. The gearbox sender makes the +/-1v sawtooth (AC) signal and the speedo head in the dash converts that to 0-5v square wave PWM signal for the ECU. I must have been on cough medicine that day.

That seal that goes up over the top of the mirror triangle is just the top end of the whole door seal. Just have a look at it, then follow it down the door, under the door, and back up the rear end of the door. Kudos, Amayama, etc.

Shoosh you. You should know that my rant in that MaxMDMArods thread was about all the f**karound he had to do making his wunhunglo turbo work, claiming that it was cost effective. Having to rip it off again to port the wastegate and all the other shit does not a good experience sound. I didn't respond to your raised hackles in that thread because I couldn't raise the energy at that time. I can bare;y raise it now!

If that's the case, then you would be better off with the subframe that matches the car, because the centrebearing height determines the angle of the rear half of the tailshaft, not the gearbox. If you change anything else, and not the centrebearing (which probably can't be easily changed anyway, not without some surgery), then it wouldn't be "right". That's dependent on the heights being different, of course. But I wouldn't put much money on that being the case.

Probably not true.

The gears have to mesh. It is possible that if the gear in the box is not the right one for the gear on the sensor...... that maybe you get no rotation.

No. Proper wax is made from carnuba palm leaves. It is an organic wax. There are synthetic waxes, but genuine carnuba wax is superior to a lot of the the synthetic ones. Ceramic coats are..... well, they're ceramic. It's somewhat in the name. But to a certain extent that really depends on what product you're talking about. Pro grade coatings used by paint specialists are a hard ceramic glaze. The consumer level products a that come in a spray bottle can be almost anything, and some of them are probably a hybrid between a true ceramic glaze and a wax. Ease of application and requirement for repeated use (which is a high value for consumer product!) are defining characteristics of consumer grade stuff. Sealants always go direct onto paint. Wax always goes on top. You cannot hope to make anything stick over the top of wax. Rejecting contamination from outside is what wax is all about.

I should think it is swappable. Probably best done by a trimmer to ensure no mistakes, but possibly done by self.

Stock ones available right now. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R33-Coupe-GTR-Speaker-Mounts-/154146567186

Hmm. Money pit seems to be the right word. What's the interior like?

Shouldn't think so. Different fabric on R32 GTSt vs GTR, so I think it's the same issue on the 34s.

Can't really see the point in paying Driftworks prices when there are exactly as good options locally.

The shafts are all the same length. (Provided they are both to suit non-ABS diff housings). As in, the spline end is same same regardless. Your problem will not be this. Same dyno? If not, there's no way to know if the difference is real or not. The bindi-ness of it could simply be that the LSD in there is a fairly tight mechanical. "An LSD of some sort" is not a lot of information to work on. Surely this is something you would want to know about your car, right? Anyway, I don't think you have a problem. I think this is mostly in your head. Stop worrying and just thrash it like it was supposed to be thrashed.

Correct answer has been given.

The thread topic says "sealant over wax", but the real question is really about "wax over sealant", yes? In which case, as junkie says, yes, 6 years is long enough to need to redo a ceramic sealant. No, there is no problem putting wax on top of a ceramic. Probably not necessary, but nothing wrong with it. Wax is always a good thing. No, you could not put ceramic sealant over wax. The paint has to be bare. There are specific wax removal steps before most sealant application.

Shouldn't. Not to the extent that you're talking.

Thermostat not closing is most likely culprit for running cold. An engine will definitely drop temperature on overrun without fuel, but the thermostat should close and after that it should stop falling as rapidly.

@admS15That looks like a 1.5 way. Assymetric ramp angles. What djr said is correct. The ramps define how much of the locking power is applied on accel and decel, (ie 1, 1.5 or 2 way) and the rest of the diff (the number of clutch plates, springs etc) in the mechanism define the breakaway torque. You can make a 2-way diff with low breakaway torque that will behave nicely without clunking, but it will open up earlier than you might like. Or you can make one that might as well be welded. Cusco have a range of different diffs that cover that span and some even offer adjustment of how tighjt they are.