GTSBoy

What do you mean "Trace my VIN"? Your car's ID plates will be in the bottom of a scrap metal bin and the rest will have been used to repair another car.

How stock is it?

Hmm. I had a look through the entire manual and could not see a representation of that plug either. I'd suggest you're down to following the wires.

The wiring diagram is a thing.

The crank would have to push the piston all the way through the combustion chamber and into the valve seat area to hit a valve that is closed and cannot be open because there is nothing (no camshaft) to push it open. Close eyes. Picture inside of engine.

No cams installed = ........ [you complete the sentence].

Note the plural. Ignition coils. Air Flow Meters. Crank Angle Sensors. And the worst of all......ownership by morons who modify shit until it burns up. All of these are pernicious.

Do a leakdown test, to see what the rings might be like. But keep in mind a few things. Compression rings are not oil control rings. Oil control rings are not compression rings. Leaking valves have nothing to do with leaking valve stem seals.

No. I was being quite serious. Nissans of the era are not terrible, but they have a large array of electrical problems. Toyotas, even Supras, are whitegoods with supreme reliability.

No.

I refer you to post #2.

The Toyota, obviously.

NA Supra are a nice enough drive, but there is no way in the world that you can consider them fast and there is no way to make them fast without boost or a V8. If you want fast, choose the GT-t.

Then just break out a multimeter and see if you have connectivity between the ECU pin that runs the CEL and the CEL pin on the dash!

That's the problem. The car doesn't have it, the ABS/TCS CU is probably only ABS enabled, and the ECU expects to talk to the ABC/TCS CU about both ABS and TCS. It (the ECU) will probably chuck a spaz. Hence needing to Nistune to sidestep the codes. Bosch 040, Walbro 255, or anything newer, bigger and better able to take ethanol than those.

Make sure the ECU boost sensor is on the loom. Upgrade the fuel pump. Nothing else that I can think of. It is quite possible that the TCS won't work properly. If it doesn't and you end up with codes, you will need to Nistune the ECU. Should do that anyway.

Take the dash out, check the globe directly. Then power the globe from the terminals on the loom plug on the dash. That will tell you if it's all good up at the dash, or not. And there is little chance of it being broken anywhere else, unless some twatbasket has cut the wire at the ECU.

Nope. Just check everything that it could be.

Surely the ends are common with a millionty other Nissans of the same era? Just buy something with ends that match the compressor and cut them and your old ones up and get someone to weld them together with new hose as required. That's what I did (admittedly with R34 Neo compressor ends) onto R32 hoses when I did my transplant.

But not NA cars.

Meant "or with a spring".

I tell the aligner exactly what angles I want for EVERYTHING, and do not leave until they are really f**king close to what I asked for.

This is not true. 9 psi on a 25 should give no more than 180 rwkW, probably only 170. Yup. Also yup. Won't. Can't. Need.

Toe out would be way twitchy. Zero toe should be very easy to disturb. Toe in should be more stable. Be aware that static toe, as measured on the rack, may completely change when the vehicle is moving, particularly if you have stuffed bushes in any of the arms.

The differences are mostly like this. Type M differences: Different steering wheel Different body kit Bigger brakes (these being the normal 280mm x 28mm 4 pot fronts, plus the 2 pot rears). Slightly different suspension Engine and driveline are the same And they didn't have blue dials as standard And the motorised chin spoiler maybe. Although a lot of things like that were options that you could put onto many cars. For what it's worth, the vast majority of R32 GTSt are type M.