GTSBoy

Yes, L has the -ve terminal on the left side. FWIW, I'm using an NS70 on my R32. Fits in the space. Is MUUUUUCH larger.

My one anal retentive addition/correction to Lith's rant is that gas is a fluid too. He means liquids.

There is a whole wheel fitment thread stickied at the top of this forum. But I would strongly suggest that 9.5" wheels in a strong GTR offset are going to stick out of the guards a reasonable distance.

Nope. Lots of noise with no performance impact is completely normal.

FFS. If it has an R200 diff in it then the GTST tailshaft will definitely fit, exactly as I have told you twice already. As to "why should I ask on a forum when I could just go find out myself?"........ ahh, if only people would.

Don't speak to the tuner. Find one who has a brain. He shouldn't be using any of that horseshit at 17 psi!

Z has 2 more plates, more capacity, is better choice. Both work. No physical difference on the outside of the box.

If you can get the right tailshaft, then it will fit without modification. Cut and shut of various tailshafts to make something fit is only required if you can;t get exactly what you want. It is standard practice here in Australia. When asked where to go here, I just say "Hardy Spicer". I am dead certain there would be equivalent places in Austria. I told you what other parts you need for the manual swap. The gearbox crossmember and the wiring loom. (and a flywheel and clutch if you don't get them with the engine/box).

It looks like a Neo. It does not have the R34's throttle body (the one that includes the additional TB for traction control). It could have been removed and replaced with something else (R33, or maybe cut down) or the whole engine could be from a Stagea. On a standard turbo @12 psi, using stock ECU (with Nistune in it) and a good tune, mine makes ~191rwkW on a pretty honest dyno. That's ~250HP at the wheels, ~340 HP at the flywheel. 350 HP at the engine is possible with just a tiny bit more boost, better engine, happier dyno, etc etc. Totally believable. It will feel fast, but not scary fast. You have no traction control. There is none. A tight mechanical LSD will clunk and carry on on tight slow turns. I will not give you advice on engine mods or turbo choices, as there are 299x10^85 threads on here. Do some searching. There's a whole sticky thread on turbos at the top of the Forced Induction forum. I can't comment on wheels. Google will be your friend.

RB20 box is a cable drive (in an R32). RB25DET box is electronic sender. These two drives are completely different. For example, to use an RB25DET box in an R32, you have to make a speedo drive that fits into the RB25DET box and provides a cable drive. You can't use the R32 RB20DET speedo cable drive because a), it wont fit into the big gearbox and b) if it did fit the gearing on it would be wrong. We typically build such a drive out of a Navara ute speedo drive (because they used the same big box but had cable drive speedo). You have the opposite situation, in that you have a box that should not have been able to take an electronic sender (the RB20DER box) in an R33, which does not have a cable drive speedo on the dash. So the first question is....how was the RB20 box speedo drive achieved? Is there an unexpected electronic sender in it (like, maybe from an S13?), and is there some sort of pulse frequency converter added into the wiring to get the frankensteined thing to read "correctly" on an mph speedo? If there is a signal converter, it might be responsible for messing with your now notionally "correct for the car" gearbox and sender installation.

A pool fire is a different thing. The fame you bring to the surface heats the liquid, evaporating some methanol, which burns in the vapour phase on top of the pool. A spray of 50:50 stands a good chance of smothering another flame, because there is so much ability for the spray's latent heat of evaporation to steal more heat than the flame can maintain. /rocket science.

Will not work with PFC, which needs the Nissan trigger pattern.

Look at the wiring diagram out of the service manual. The pump is controlled by the ECU, so you need to understand where the wires come from to know when they should be powered/earthed. Randomly jumping power into the relay circuit is not necessarily going to help, and may do the opposite.

But but but. People are buying them at high prices

Only ever going to go up.

Those old lebtechs were good.

There would have to be thousands of pages of information on the net about doing this. Not with your exact car specifically, because those turds only ever got imported into Australia by accident. Most people have never seen one. I have. Lifted the bonnet, looked at the engine, sighed, and walked away. But, spoonfeeding mode on...... Your stock diff is probably physically strong enough (provided that it is an R200 and not an R180) to take stock RB25DET power. But it will be an open diff, which means it will suck testicles and spin one wheel freely. Plan to replace it. Your stock diff and axles are 6 bolt (3x2). These are slightly weaker than the turbo's 5 bolters, but will be fine. I'm using 3x2s in my R32 with neo turbo. But if you change to a different diff, you may end up needing 5 bolt stub axles and driveshafts. Turbo tailshaft will fit diff. At the very least you will need the front yoke of the turbo tailshaft and you could get a driveshaft workshop/manufacturer to modify by cut and shut. Yes, absolutely. The little auto gearbox in your car will not last long behind a 25DET. Go manual or go home. Transmission crossmember, wiring loom for the RHS side of the engine bay down to the gearbox. Don't know for sure. I care so little for R33s, and no-one cares about the RB20DE autos, that I have no idea where to look for the information you need. There is an even chance that the speedo will be compatible - all you would need is the correct sender in the gearbox. But there is also a chance that they were mechanical drive...in which case there is plenty of information on how to do the conversion (for R32s specifically).

The failure when reading voltage does not align with the smoothly changing resistance you measure on the TPS itself. I suggest you test the wiring to the car/ECU more thoroughly, particularly the TPS's loom plug. You could also build your own circuit and test the TPS off the car. Just need a stack of AA batteries to give you 6V and a little bit of wire. Use multimeter to look at voltage across the TPS and perhaps current flowing through it (probably want another limiting resistor in that circuit too, just in case the TPS can't take all that an AA battery can provide).

Of course there isn't a reg in there. It's just a pot. If it's not working like a pot, then it's broken.

It only requires people in one place to be willing to pay lots for the prices to stay high. Guess where that place is atm.

Try the old head unit again.

I would have said that 700+HP was well into 100mm territory anyway.

They're also NOT putting the RB26 back into production. They are putting the block back into production. And the block has always been available anyway, so this doesn't really change much. The head going back into production is a little bit of a bigger deal, but not a lot. Not making whole engines.

What do you mean it looks the same!? The Nissan side of it is the same. Of course it is. The BOV side is completely different. Look at the bloody bolt spacing! And paper gasket. Buy gasket making paper and cut a gasket out.

Open the other door and look at that one.