GTSBoy

:thumbsup:

You don't need any pressure at all. Any pressure washer will do more than enough. You only want to wet the car prior to bucket&glove wash, then gently rinse it off. High pressure concrete cutter type washes are for boats and bro-dozers, not nice cars.

M10 or M12? You have posted both. And with both thread pitches too.

Cannot comment on Pathfinder pump. But realistically, so long as the pump places the pulley in the right spot, just about any pump will do. HICAS "delete" does not imply that the HICAS warning light will not illuminate. If you do it wrongly, you will get the code. The HICAS CU is responsible for providing your variable rate power steering. Therefore, to retain this, you must retain the CU. If you remove the remainder of the HICAS system (actuators, sensors, etc) then it will chuck the shits and throw up the warning light. The solution to this problem is to leave the larger of the two connectors attached to the back of the HICAS CU and disconnect the smaller of the two. The important parts of the HICAS will still do their job, but no dash light. Or, you just remove the bulb from behind the dash. The plug is easier. Yes, you can drive without power steering. It is much much harder work, especially at parking speeds, but it actually feels nice on the move. Assuming that the Pathfinder pump is incorrect in some way, you should obtain an early RB25 PS pump as an easier approach to making sure that the pump will line up with the other pulleys on the engine. Or, you can just put an original R32 PS pump back on it and use the rear stage of the pump to run a separate PS cooling loop.

This

Buy a good reusable head gasket. Don't try to reuse the original one.

If your wiring is as you say, pin 86 is connected to the old pump wire from the original relay....ie, the wire that used to originally actually power the pump, then, when the ECU activates that original relay, that will then power your relay. It's arse backwards (a bit) and double the chance of a failed relay stopping you by the side of the road, but it will work. As to your wiring between pin 30 and 87, you have that backwards. But it will still work. These are just the 2 terminals that are either side of the switched contact. It's just that we conventionally put 12v INTO pin 30 and have it come out 87. It's just a convention when wiring relays.

Um, I have 2 kids and it probably costs me $150 to feed them if we're buying food at an "event". 10 buckets of chips is already $80! Can we get some advice on how to feed 10 kids for only $150? Sounds like a good theme for a thread. /gangbang

There have been a couple of threads lately where this has been discussed. This link is to a post of mine showing the R34 fuel pump circuit (which, if not the same as R32, is going to be same enough with respect to where the power comes from and how the OEM fuel pump relay is triggered by the ECU). https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476054-r34-gt-na-fuel-pump-wiring/?do=findComment&comment=7898530 The short version is that the ECU provides the earth for the relay to switch the pump on. Not the power. The earth. Look to the left of the red box on my post. The fuel pump is the first thing to the left, then the relay is the next thing to the left. If you look at the coil on the relay, pins 1 & 2, you will see that pin 1 is connected to the ECU pin 13 (remember, this is R34, I haven't checked if the ECU pin # is the same on R32, not that it matters for this discussion). Pin2, the other side of the coil, comes from the 15A fused power supply for the whole pump. That makes the ECU side of the relay's coil the earth side. ECUs almost always provide a switched earth, rather than a switched power supply. So, for your own new relay installation, you need to power the coil from a fused supply and the switched wire from the ECU is actually the earth. This is what you have now done by connecting pin 86 to the ECU's pump control terminal. That circuit in the black backgrounded image above would have an earth on both sides of the relay's coil** and shouldn't do anything. The only way that circuit can work is if you use the original pump power wire (switched by the original relay) to power the coil to switch your new relay on. ** and this is why you were blowing fuses - because you were connecting the power supply direct to earth.

Maybe you should run it back and forth through google translate between Japanese and English until it starts to make sense.

Oh. 30 thou. That is definitely going to be noisy. That is your smoking gun, and you need to fix it because that much lash will only lead to further wear/destruction. As to the cause.....well, it can't be valve seat regression, because that closes clearances, not opens them. Opening clearances implies either wear on the lifter or valve stem tip. The valve seat may have a big dent in it, preventing the valve from closing completely. This could happen if something hard went through the engine and got munched between the valve and seat. It could also be a bent valve stem I guess, holding the valve tight just before it comes all the way up and again stopping it from seating. Or something else stuck in the valve guide causing it to grab.

Just for clarity.....0.019 is 19 thousandths of an inch, right? And 0.20 is 200 thousandths of an inch? Is that a typo on #10 & #11? Because the error you put after #11, or 0.011 doesn't add up. #12 is fine. The clearance is a tiny bit close, but not enough to cause any massive issues. Better if you can get it right, but not going to be causing noise. At 0.200, #11 is f**ked. Unless you have a typo on that one and on #10..... in which case they are only a little bit wider than desired. But they could certainly be responsible for increased clatter.

I would say yes. The central port is the return to the engine, which means the outer oil path facing the camera is dirty oil into filter. The thermostat bypass is from the right hand port back into that outer path. Otherwise, when the thermostat is working (hot), the oil will go out that side and come back on the left to the dirty side of the filter. So your conclusion looks correct.

The only "reset" that really exists on any such ECU is to remove power from it for long enough that it loses its short term memory. Other than using a Consult to reset any DTC, etc.

Only have to change one "i" to a "u".

Oddly enough, although possibly because I dislike both the profile of R33s and nearly everything that Veilside have ever done........that looks bloody good.

I guess the other logical/correct engineering approach would be to have more than one compressor (parallel, series, whatever) and sophisticated control so that one of them is doing the work at low altitude and either both of them or just the other one doing the work at higher altitude. This is something that a twin-charge system could probably help with a lot. Use the blower to add some boost and air flow capacity back to the turbo only at higher elevations and use a properly mapped control valve to throttle it into and out of operation and de-clutch it completely at the lower elevations.

The correct engineering approach is to design it to make the power you need within sensible margins (or only just outside) in the worst case (at elevation in this case) and not actually push the turbo as hard as it could go in the other case. That is so long as you aren't happy to have the power fall off with elevation.

Well, if you're pulling the head off then you HAVE to replace the gasket. So you might as well put a decent MLS one in there. But be aware of the surface prep/finish requirements. Also, don't put a thicker HG in there if your aim is to reduce the compression. That's '90s thinking.

Don't change the head gasket unless you're aiming for serious power. Just put ARP studs in one at a time.

Gearbox input shaft is probably fairly firmly in the clutch. If there are no bolts still holding the gearbox to the engine, no earth straps, starter motor, etc, then it can only be the input shaft. You may need/want to release the gearbox crossmember and support the box on a trolley jack so you can change the angle of it to help it disengage.

Yet, you said, out loud to the hearing of all in this forum, that the idle speed is adjusted with the screw on the idle valve. That was after you had been told multiple times that the ECU was in control of it. Yup, and it will remain so whilst the voltage is being measured and reported by someone in whom we have no trust in their technical capability. I can tell you right now that I would not expect to measure a DC voltage on either terminal of the knock sensor. Perhaps all your buggerising around has broken something in your ECU. That would be a logical expectation on our behalf. This is news to us. In your previous post, did you not express no knowledge of how filters work? Wat? No. As posted above by Ben, THE ECU DOES NOT POWER THE KNOCK SENSOR. As I posted earlier, the knock sensor is a microphone and GENERATES the voltages that turn up on its terminals by the piezoelectric effect. You really should read what we post and then go look up that which you do not understand. No. No. No. No. There is no way that I can tell you how far arse-backwards you have that scheme. No, a signal can be carried with almost no current at all. If you use an input circuit on your receiver (the ECU in this case) that has massive impedance (let's say some megaohms) then all that happens is that the voltage applied to the input terminals is directly measurable at that point with almost no current flowing. This is the principle of measuring voltage. In this case however, I don't know the input impedance of the ECU's knock sensor terminals, so I will make no representation of what it is. I would, however, expect it to be very high. No. You are talking the difference between passive and active microphones. All that active powered microphones have is basically a method of increasing the signal level at the microphone itself. Almost all microphones are passive and they need to be plugged into an amplifier to turn their tiny signals into sufficiently high level to drive a speaker. Conventionally that is a chain of a mic pre-amp followed by a power amp, simply because the various different sorts of microphones generate different sized signals compared to line level audio signals and need different pre-amp treatment. Despite all that.....it is immaterial here. The ECU is not trying to play the knock noises into the cabin for you to hear. It is quite capable of listening for knock noises at the microphone signal level. There may well be a small pre-amp stage in the ECU to make the signal larger, but I wouldn't expect it. THERE IS NO POWER TO THE KNOCK SENSOR. No. No. No. As posted by Ben, again, the knock sensor is not a 5V sensor that simply changes its resistance with whatever it is measuring. It is not. Therefore your continued pushing of that line that your 2.4V means something shows that you have not understood what you have been told over and over again. Have a looooooooong look at the graphic posted by RICE again. Note the midpoint of the waveform is at ZERO volts. Zero. There should be no DC bias on the knock sensor. What have you done to your car? No. You are just bashing out meaningless terms now. No. They are not in code. They will be in hardware. No, I did not contradict myself. The ECU DOES NOT ADD TIMING TO THE BASE 15° to get you the mythical 30° that you claim your engine idles at. That is the point I have made, more than once, about your incorrect claim. The other things I have said about the ECU using timing to attempt to control idle speed AS A MATTER OF LAST RESORT are all true. I will not reiterate all that typing. You are doing my head in as it is. No. No. No. Take an early one, like an RB20. The wax pellet valve is a separate device, lodged under the inlet manifold. It is the AUXILIARY AIR VALVE and it is responsible for opening up a big air leak to give a cold start high idle. The idle control valve is on the back end of the plenum and is controlled by the ECU. Take a later one, like a NEO. The wax pellet valve is integrated into the IACV and does the same job as it does on the RB20. Open when cold, closed when warm. This is why the NEO has a coolant feed to the IACV on the back end of the plenum. It feeds cold or warm (or hot) water to the wax pellet to allow it to sense the engine temperature directly. The stepper motor controlled valve is still under the control of the ECU for normal idle control. I am pretty sure that Nissan will have abandoned such old fashioned shit by now and not be using wax pellet valves at all. They will do everything with the IACV, like every other manufacturer does. We can't comment on what you may have done to your car. That's because you have butchered the system. I believe the word you are looking for in all your usages so far is "respectfully". Not respectively, which has a completely different meaning. /thread, please mods.

No. Frequency is a property of an alternating voltage that is completely independent of the peak to peak voltage of the signal. Using DC voltmeter, you should see zero volts average. If you have a DC voltmeter that can respond very very very fast, then you may see it flicking back and forth from + to -, but this is hugely unlikely, and almost certainly not going to happen on any multimeter that you can afford. Audi signals are at far too high a frequency to see with an AC voltmeter. You need a CRO. If you have a CRO (or something that can sample as fast as a CRO, like the ECU that RICE would have logged his signal with) then you can see the waveform. Capacitors are high pass filters. They block low frequencies (The point at which they start "filtering" depends on the capacitance value). Chokes (inductors) are low pass filters. They block high frequencies, and again, the frequency at which they start filtering depends on the value of the inductance. You can assemble these together into circuits that will do gentle filter slopes of 6dB/octave, all the way to really aggressive slopes like 24 dB/octave, and you can combine a low pass and a high pass to either cut a notch out of a signal (allow everything above and below, but not in the notch to pass) or to create a bandpass filter (only allowing the signal between the lower and upper limits to pass through). You keep saying you are seeing the frequency "displayed". Are you using a frequency meter? If you are using a voltmeter, you are not reading frequency, as I have said previously. Absolutely sure. There is ONE sound that an RB makes when it pings. (OK, it actualy probably makes a few different sounds, but there's realy only going to be one that the ECU needs to look for). Nissan's engineers will not have wasted time trying to make the ECU able to learn what a new, different knock sound might be. They did not intend for anyone to be hacking the ECU and doing anything to it, or the engine. You can definitely trust me on that. No OEM engineer ever wants the buyer to be able to do that. (Ask me how I know....) No. Not it is not. The idle valve is in fact a stepper motor controlled variable orifice** that opens and closes at the ECU's direction to let more or less air flow to the engine to control the idle speed. The manual needle valve adjustment is actually not intended to be used except to set the absolute minimum amount of air that will flow to the engine when the stepper motor is completely closed. **There's actually a few different types across all the years of Nissan doing this stuff. But theyall work much the same in the end. And no, as I have said before, while the AFM signal may go up and down as total airflow varies around idle, the ECU does precisely NOTHING with that value, because it does not use it at idle. The idle map is essentially a 1-D map, unlike the main load vs. speed maps for running off idle. If the ECU can keep the O2 sensor working properly at idle, then the ECU will in fact use it to run the engine in closed loop mixture control at idle. You can see this by watching the O2 sensor voltage flip either side of 0.5V. If, however, the O2 sensor is cold, or old and slow, the ECU will instead just run the engine off the idle map without using the O2 sensor. It doesn't. If you have an air leak, or have passion fingered the manual idle adjustment, then the ECU will use delta control to try to bring the idle back down. It will retard timing to bring the engine speed down. As you can imagine, this is actually not a disireable state of affairs, it is desperation on the ECU's part. Low timing at idle is not good for anything, from exhaust temperatures, to emissions. I have personally seen my Neo's ECU run only 2-3° of TOTAL ADVANCE BTDC, when my IACV was filthy and stuck too far open. The ECU was able to get the idle down to ~700rpm, which was still above the 650rpm target value which is set in the ECU. And here's the best thing you didn't know. With Nistune, you can actually go in there and change that value. That is truly how you adjust the idle speed. Mine is now set to 600 rpm. If the idle is too low and the ECU can't get the IACV to bring it up, then it can and will add some advance to try to increase the engine speed. But it can't add anywhere near as much timing as it is able to remove, because running too much advance at idle is stupid. Low compression motors are easy to idle. They are the exact opposite of "lumpy". As to the limit of advance, see above, even though it has nothing to do with this part of your question. I'm afraid that, from what you have been saying, it was quite evident that you did not know much, if anything, about some fairly basic electrical/electronic concepts. So it really sounded like you needed basic instruction on how things like microphones work. As I have had to explain things like caps and chokes as filters, I remain convinced of that. You have in fact stated a number of "facts" about the ECU and the idle speed control systems that are in fact quite wrong. So don't try to squirm out from that. Beliefs play no part in this. OK. If you actually promise to understand what I have said, and you also promise to use the correct terminology. If I have misunderstood anything that you have written, then so has everybody else that has taken you on. The reason for that is not us.

I don't have FAST installed on my PC, and I don't have a suitable VIN to make it easy(er) to search. You could use FAST yourself. You could also do a directed google search on these forums because I am sure I have seen any number of threads about that pressure switch over the last 20 years.