GTSBoy

If it's all just in paint, then....yes. Sort of. Depends on what you mean by "easily". Complete strip and powder coat? Easy. It's just you hand the wheels and a stack of coins to the wheel guy and they come back fixed. Damage to the alloy? Not easy. Still doable. Same basic method. Wheels + money to the wheel guy.

Duty sets the boost level. The duty number != boost, it is just a number between 0% doing something and 100% doing something. More number = more boost. Gain and p gain are used to help account for boost creep or drop off. The details vary from controller type to controller type (ie, the Profecs use similar terms but achieve their results slightly differently.) The manual should explain all that. These controllers are dumb in that they do not control to a boost target. They are open loop. You need to adjust settings until it is doing what you want. If the performance of the motor, boost control system, elevation, weather, etc change, then the boost can and will come out to a different result on the same controller settings.

Not the same thing, in case you were confused. The "wire" he spoke of is the heated wire, which is the sensing element inside the AFM.

In which case it hardly matters either (and there's got to be no way that anyone would want to stick with the factory blue, because it is goddamn yawntastic).

It can all be fixed, but if you've got multiple damage reports for chassis rails and floorpan and sills....I'd be expecting a $10k bill there. Alone.

I understand that the R34 ECU can be sensitive to what is going on wrt the coilpacks/loom. You'd be well advised to put a Consult reader onto the diagnostic port and read the codes. The one(s) in the ECU will be the ones most likely to tell you what's going on. The TCS light will be a secondary effect.

Hire a dyno in Canadia and tune over the 'net?

Is correct. Manifold vacuum at idle is about the difference.

It's the front axle on a Stagea. How hard can it be worked?

Take it to a sparkie. We'll never work out what is borked from across the internet. It'll be something unexpected.

You might want to explain that to the unitiated (ie the OP).

Given they've been on the market for about 3 minutes, you're not likely to find too many people who have tried one.

Buy a very large syringe and some small bore PVC hose.

If the Nistuned ECU is set up to be an RB25DET ECU, then you can put any maps into it you like. You need a programmer to put the actual ECU firmware onto it (the first time, or to change it for another different engine application), not to change maps. As said above - all the Nistune base maps are freely available in the ROM pack.

If that is not an optical illusion then they do not look like the same length. The closer one has longer splines. But here's the rub. You say it has an aftermarket mechanical diff in it? Well, when you buy a Nismo LSD you get 2x new stub axles to go with it, because the Nismo mechs are not intended to work with the original unequal length VLSD stubs.

This is where I'd start. I like GKTech stuff, but there are more reports of that particular fan not working on RBs than there are reports of it being even as good as stock, let alone better. Also, inspect the radiator. How are the fins? If many are bent over, then you will suffer. Also look at the overall air path from grille through to the radiator core. Is it set up to allow air through the front mount to just spill out the bottom instead of going through the rad? Some corflute sheeting might help.

It's a Euro debt trap, so....just about anything? Cam drive, flux capacitor, money pump, etc.

Maybe, but the % change is actually pretty small.

Both sides of the caliper properly bled? I know it can be hard to convince yourself yes/no to that question.

Take the pads out, one side at a time, and see that the pistons on the padless side move properly when you press the pedal. Just to make sure that they're all doing the right thing. You can restrain 2 out of 3 pistons on a side if you need to make sure that one of them is moving. You might have too because if there is one pistons that is much easier to move than the others, then it will and they won't. Same (but opposite) with one that is much stickier than the others. You might find that one side is not working properly. To be clear, I do not think the caliper is spreading. It seriously only looks like it is moving side to side. To spread it has to bend around an axis formed by a line through the bridge bolts (basically the line between the two caliper halves along the top. (I'd hate to think that a brand new Alcon caliper would be that bendy.) That implies the piston related problems I speculate above.

Yeah, I just watched the video also (I don't generally watch embed videos because I have to enable them in NoScript before doing so). That's not "caliper flex" in the classic sense. Caliper flex is where the body of the caliper spread because it is not stiff enough to resist being pushed apart by the forced imposed at the piston/pad interface. That whole caliper is moving. That probably means that the dogbone is flexing, which would point to it being too flimsy and/or simply misaligned so that the caliper has no option but to try to centre itself on the disc. The pedal sinking to the floor would have to be unrelated.

With the caveat that personal imports need to be owned by the person who is importing the car (not a family member, the very same person) and you must be resident outside of Australia for a year. As this one is >25 years, you just follow this procedure, which takes 0.00001 bogomips of googling to find. https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/department/media/news/how-import-your-older-vehicle-25-years-or-older

Pedal to floor is not caliper flex. Pedal to floor is hydraulic leaking/bypassing. You quite possibly stuffed the seals in the MC when you were bleeding. A common mistake the unitiated make is to push the pedal down too far when bleeding with an MC that has been in use a long time. Crud builds up on the MC wall just past the furthest it is ever pushed in use. That crud can be hard enough to damage the seals when you push the piston down past when bleeding. Might be time for a kit in the MC.

Just buy a software license and put the stock maps into the (tuned for a worked engine) Nistune. It is not difficult. I cannot imagine owning Nistune without owning Nistune Software. Just....how could anyone contemplate it?

25Neo injectors are 3/4 length with 14mm o-rings at both ends and the Denso plug. Like these. https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-r34-rb25det-neo-r35-gtr-350z-370z-720ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ You can probably fit any 14mm o-ring injector you like to that manifold, provided they are not too short or too long. And even if they are too short or too long, you can add spacers to the injectors or to the fuel rail mounting legs if you really needed to. Though I'd be hard pressed to believe that you would attempt it with anything other than brand new EV14s like the ones I linked. Having said the above, if the picture of the injector you posted has anything to do with the manifold, it looks like they are specifying full length injectors. So you'd just buy the full length part number instead of the 3/4 length part number. But I can't see any mention of that injector length on that manifold's eBay page, so perhaps you should ask the vendor.