GTSBoy

One small step for an R31...one giant leap for a submarine?

Integrated (probably) Power Distribution Module Body Control Module

Mount phone/gopro/whatever under the guard and do a short drive. See if the noise is much louder when up close to the suspension.

Stock less likely to carry one like that than urethane, but still can, especially if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. If it's making that much noise you should be able to use a hose as a stethoscope> stick one end in your ear, crouch down and wave it around the various possible noise makers and get someone to lift the front end at the guard lip.

Broken actuator rod. Could be one of a couple of them broken. Or, it's locked and the central locking actuator is broken/stuck or the actuator rods between it, the lock and the key barrel are jammed or broken similarly. You'll probably need a locksmith/mechanic who is experienced with using slim tools to reach down next to the window glass to manipulate the mechanism. That's assuming that it is not so severely jammed/broken that nothing useful will move.

Suspension bush. Got urethane bushes in the upper arms?

There are fixes for this. In industry we use compressed air for everything. It is frequently wet, and many things cannot tolerate it. So there are various forms of driers available that you can install. The simplest option for something like this would be a dessicant drier. Much cheaper to replace some silica gel than actuator cylinders.

Lunchtime walk: Lou Reed, Zeppelin, King Missile, Church, QOTSA, Machine Gun Fellatio and Alabama Shakes.

That sort of chaos is totally on brand for them. My girls are friends with them and have seen some total chaos at various festivals and shows.

Nah, just slow it down.

Granted, which is a solid reason why I don't have one. My floorstanders are only -2 dB at 22 Hz. So they're still working down to <20 Hz. Which is no doubt part of the reason why my receiver shits the bed! That Tonewinner would be about double the cost though, so it's not apples and apples. There aren't many AU$1300 subs (that you can buy prebuilt, I'm ignoring what can be achieved by DIYing) that compete.

I'll just leave this here. https://www.adelaidespeakers.com/subwoofers.html TL loading, big power. They sound awesome. This is what I would buy if I was going to try to take the bass away from my floorstanders. Just go with the 12".

This morning was Kingswood's Microscopic Wars. It is the album's 10 year anniversary this year and we went to see them play the whole album as a special show a couple of months back. Was pretty spectacular.

Nah, yeah, nah. Speakers have a nominal impedance of 8 ohm that looks more like 6.4 ohm when measured. The receiver's amplifiers (all channels) are all rated to 6 ohm (I think, it's been a long time since I cared). The real problem is that many modern class D amps have aggressive protection circuitry that cuts off the fun if they think too much current is being drawn. And with my speakers having series crossovers, as opposed to more typical parallel crossovers, and big TL enclosures, they can certainly dip down to lower impedances at some frequencies and that easily triggers the protection. Pioneer receivers are somewhat famous for it, but even Denon, Onkyo, et al, all have many complaints against them across various models. It only does it when listening to music at high levels. You have to be putting your ears at risk to do it. But sometimes I want to do that. If I was serious about using it as a listening room I'd simply upgrade the amp for the front pair to a nice Rotel or something, and just use the receiver for signal handling and processing - although that would be a bit of a pain in the arse too. Have to switch on more shit, pre-amp volume vs main amp volume, etc etc.

I'm only going to hassle you for posting links to images. It's against my policy to click links that could be some nasty payload. Sadly, you need to make 9 more posts before you can just stick the images directly in a post, unless @PranK sees this and bends the rule for you.

If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.

Perhaps not as actual musical instrument. It does at least work the same areas of the brain, so it is close. I'm a frustrated guitarist. I have an '84 Ibanez Roadstar ii (RS430) that I bought in 1984 to play in my highschool band, The Animal Sons of Vegetable Mothers. We knew how to play 1 thing completely and about 20 things at ~10%. Was mostly an excuse to jam and f**k around. It's black on black, rosewood fretboard, Pro Rock'r bridge (which is a very good Floyd Rose tremolo system with locking at both ends of the string). It has spent the majority of the last 40 years stashed away. My daughter keeps threatening to steal it. She's in the middle of a classical guitar degree and has taught herself to play piano and bass in her spare seconds, which has already lead her to steal her ex-boyfriend's bass (and a lovely tube amp that I now have to replace all the tubes in to stop the dreadful noise it's currently making). So she has form in this area and needs to be watched - or at least the guitar needs to be watched! I might move it so she can't find it.

No, not really. Except that there are newer, better cam options that don't date back to the 90s. I was under the impression that you couldn't use VCT with them, which is why I said to get rid of them. If you can't/won't use VCT because of what you listed above, that's another matter. Although I would have said the wiring aspect of it was something that you should just suck up and do, as it isn't hard. Getting an actuator for the cam gear will possibly be expensive. I still say VCT is for the win. There's a reason HKS makes money selling it for 26s.

Sell the Tomei cams to someone who is besotted with Jap brand stuff and get some nice New Zealand made cams that will work with VCT. That saves you the hassle of having to delete the VCT and gives a better result.

This. I've only ever contemplated it with the engine out. Was the prime time to f**k off all the nasty HICAS shit.

So, you've got the tube nuts B and C undone, and you can't get the HP line to come out of the rack? You will have to release it from the various bracket/clamps that attach it to the subframe to you can get enough wiggle.

The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.

So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.

Yeah, so try to post images with extensions that the internet can handle, not HEIC files which only arstyphones can handle.

Hola.