GTSBoy

https://au.gktech.com/products/s13-180sx-s14-s15-front-swaybar-end-links?_pos=18&_fid=c4372418b&_ss=c

Neos have 2x dampeners and the reg. It actually takes quite a long stare and some head scratching to work out which way to hook it all up! Easier just to put it together and if fuel doesn't flow, you've got it back to front!

The cold idle problems will be dirty AAC and IACV. Need thorough cleaning with carby cleaner. The cold idle up valve is also electrically heated, so you need to make sure that's working. The stalling when it gets warm will be the igniter. No ifs or buts.

Yeah, but decent stuff, not that mystery stuff. Like AEM, or the ones done by Haltech, Link, etc.

It's not really doing 9500rpm is it?

Yeah, there's totally no point in searching.

Key on. Zero. At idle. - lots. The equivalent of about -65kPa or about -21 inches of mercury. Your boost guage is marked in some stupid metric vertical height of f**king mercury, so whatever 21 inches is in mm. Stupid f**king Japanese. Driving and poking but no boost? Zero. Impossible to say for the last one because it depends on what gear, speed and slope of hill you're on. Max boost is less than 7 of those bullshit units on the gauge though.

The "2 wire AAC component" is just a solenoid, that opens and closes the idle control valve. It's PWM controlled by the ECU. It is hard to see how you can have the symptoms that you describe without it being caused by the valve itself being dirty and so not moving smoothly. Yes, I understand the rest of your description. Will it hurt to have it unplugged? No. You will not have idle control so idle speed will be able to fall below stall point if and when you put too much load on it (AC on, PS turned to one side, etc). Is it replaceable? I dunno. I think if mine ever goes that bad I will just be doing the whole ECU. Good excuse to go e-throttle and sidestep the whole idle control bullshit circus anyway.

I didn't even know such things existed.

Foul. Not fail. Different things.

I was going to say, "Mein Gott! He's Alive!" Or in this instance perhaps it's closer to "speak of the devil". He was invoked.

He's dumb. The exact mixture you need to run will depend on the specific motor (some will need more fuel than others, because some are knock resistant and others like to knock), the fuel (if you were planning to run on 91 you would inevitably end up with lower lambdas than if you were planning to run on 100), the boost target, the state of modification of the engine (ie, has it got higher or lower compression than it did stock, has it got big cams causing you to bleed off effective compression outside of the cam's efficiency peak, etc etc???) and a number of other things. Having said that, for a given combination of the above it might be very sensible to be aiming for say, 11.5:1 in the middle of the torque peak. That is pretty rich, but not "very rich". Very rich is (obviously) richer than that. Stock Nissan ECUs liked to push the mixtures down to ~10:1 when they got run out of their comfort zone. That's defo black smoke territory, but still not smokescreen territory. TLDR: he's dumb. The motor will be given what the motor wants, and that is not always "very rich".

Tyres also have to stay round, wear evenly, not delaminate, last a reasonable number of km, work in the cold and the hot, on dry and shallow and deep wet surfaces, and then all the things you superficially think they need to do, like stop the car running off the outside of a bend or up the arse of the f**kstain you just pulled in front of you at the lights. And....most of these cheap as shit Chinese tyres struggle to manage any three of those things, let alone a simple majority of them.

Hmm. My approach to the question of rebuild Teins or buy Bilstein is...neither. I got about the last set of revalved Bilsteins that Gary did. They were substantially better than the exact same model, not worn out, but not revalved Bilsteins I already had in the car. If I couldn't get something with same/similar valving, I don't think I could buy B6s. I do not like Teins. Therefore, if I had to buy suspension for my car again any time soon, I'd probably be buying the hardest edge** street/track coilovers from MCA or Shockworks as I could. ** I say hardest edge, meaning the sportiest stuff they do that they reckon can be driven on the street without just being totally inappropriate for that task.

The whole field will be behind them after 2 laps. Then the whacky racers oildown starts taking them out from the leader on downwards. Then Bradbury off into the sunset.

Korean company's phone made in China is not same as Chinese phone. Chinese phone made in China is made with inventions and dev blatently stolen from the Korean company, for approximately 3 months before burning the Chinese phone company's name and brand to the ground and starting again to get away from the bad publicity and reviews left online by disgruntled customers. Rinse and repeat for tyres. A little harder to do with cars, but I can see them screwing over local importer by just wholesale dumping brands once the quality picture becomes clear to the market. New brand pops up selling the same pig with different lipstick.

7 is stock. Put an exhaust on it, easily see 8 or 9. Put a bigger intercooler on it, easily see 10.

Well, splitfires are no different to a new stock coil, and stock boost is ~ 10 psi.....so 1.1mm is the likely best plug gap. Go ahead and use 0.9mm. It's not going to change the world.

Did not even read your post. Voted no. Immediately. Will not buy tyres from there. Will not buy cars from there. They have about 3/5ths of f**k all chance of repeating the Korean experience (of going from crap to actually good). That's because they give absolutely no f**ks for product quality. Only making the new version, completely dumping the old version, of everything, every 6 months.

They would have sold like 3 of them and all the cars with them installed would have been drifted into trees and power poles about 10 years ago.

Yeah, I wish my redline in 1st was about 10k. It comes up and yells "Surprise mutherf**ker!" whenever the red mist comes down at the traffic lights.

It would take $25k of my time to get even close to that as a starting point. Although, carving such things from foam core might be therapeutic. Might. Could also be maddening.

Nah, to remove excess high fill, 240 or 320 probably. 800 will take ages, clog and be a bitch. You don't care if you scratch the primer at these stages anyway, because there's more going back on over the top. You will soon see/feel/learn what grit to finish on, but I'd be willing to bet you never go finer than 400 for a bloody primer!

How f**king "deep" can scratches in interior trim actually be? Spray the primer on, sand it down. Spray some more on. Rinse, repeat. It'll be fine. If you're happy with a smooth finish, anyway. You might have to learn how to spray topcoat for a lumpy finish if you want something like original texture.

Ignoring the loss of texture, use high fill primer instead of filler. Sprays on like paint. Is paint.