GTSBoy

Just be aware that this might not be caused by the box. It might be clutch/flywheel balance issues, or it could be that there is actually something wrong with the engine that was being masked by the torque converter. Something like badly out is whack valve timing, or low compression or something equally shitty.

If the SAS dies then HICAS will fault. There's only one way to make the drive dog/pin for the SAS engage the steering wheel. It's either on, or it's smashing it up.

For me, just a DIY kit to replace the hinge and vinyl/padding. The rest of mine is structurally sound. Whether you would find enough takers (for even that much effort spent) to justify the work is a harder thing to estimate, as there are very few of these out in the wild. If you were to make the whole thing, including the armrest for the top part and the cupholder that replaces the original armrest, you might be able to sell them to people who would like to upgrade. If there are enough of them, that is.

The GTS4 was available with a manual, and 5th wasn't particularly taller in the GTR box than in the 20 box (if different at all, and it's probably the same). So, it is absolutely not that the 20 doesn't have the torque to pull the gear. It should be able to cruise v. nicely at 70 km/h or more in 5th. Not up any slopes, not with any hope of accelerating if you need it, but certainly cruise. I know this because I went from R32 auto to R32 with manual DET box (and then to 25 with 25DET box and that is where you really realise how little torque the 20 actually has, if you hadn't beforehand!). I wouldn't often use 5th below 80 because the revs were quite low and there was less vacuum and it tended to use less petrol if you kept the revs up a little more in 4th. But it was fine at 80 and up. So, it is more likely that there is a weird/severe/unexplained problem in the box. Maybe a knackered bearing in the 5th/reverse shaft area.

You still can. Just highlight the bit you want to quote, and then press the quote button that ops up next to it. Rinse and repeat.

OK, I just looked at the photo for the first time. Those hoses are probably vacuum. Where they go to/from is a mystery to me, as my Neo turbo PS pump does not have that on the pump outlet connection. You'll notice almost any search for "Neo power steering pump" will turn up pictures with out that can and the smaller hoses. But with a little more effort, you get this. Only respect the answer from Fit_Cow.

Doesn't google work?

Yuh, I have that one and the hinge is broken and the vinyl on top is cracked from years of elbows. I have been meaning to put effort into doing a better job of repairing the hinge (already done once, years ago, didn't last) and retrimming the top. But new made replacements would be even better. The hinges are very low science, basically just being folded plastic. Any effort spent working out what to do to fix it on this lid would probably (maybe only possibly, depends on whether there's any commonality) be applicable to the normal lid's hinge too.

At least the hinge, if not the whole lid, for the armrest. Not the normal low height, longer armrest that was standard. The taller, shorter length one with the cupholders under it that was an uncommon option.

yup

If you put the wheel back on in the incorrect position (ie, one spline off) then do a wheel alignment, you can make it drive straight with the wheel straight, but because the wheel alignment will have compensated for the wheel being rotated when the rack is centred, there will be more turns of travel to one side or the other (meaning you'll be able to turn tighter on one side than the other). This is an example of what happens if you do the wrong thing, then do another wrong thing on top to mask it. If you put the wheel on crooked, but don't cover it up with an alignment, then you will drive straight with the wheel rotated one way or the other. It will feel wrong, but it will work fine and can be easily fixed by putting the wheel back on. If you do any of this with a buggered wheel alignment, then go get the alignment fixed, then it's anybody's guess as to where you are. To fix this stuff you need to unhook the tie rods from the steering arms, rotate the wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, counting the exact number of turns (right down to the correct fraction of a turn) and then turn the wheel back to the centre by going exactly half that number of turns. The rack is now centred. If the wheel is not straight, then you have to fix the wheel. If you can't get it straight with the rack centred (ie, moving only one spline either way still has the steering wheel crooked one way or the other) then you need to pick the splice that causes the least error and call that position "centre" on the rack. The rack will be slightly off centre, but you have to live with that. Then you just hook the tie rods back and and do a wheel alignment with the wheel centred and it should all come out good. Worst case, you get the wheel aligner to do all this because this is the sort of mess that they have to fix up all the time.

A good street alignment will generally run a slightly different toe angle left to right, or more often it is done with caster, to make the car want to climb up the camber of a typical 2 lane road. For RHD cars (driving on the LHS of the road), it should want to pull a little to the right. This can often suck when you're on the wrong side of the camber, like in the right lane of a divided carriageway where the right lane is cambered the other way. They're not all this way, often split roads just have the right lane higher than the left to make water drain off to the outside. It can also cause accidents when numpties overtake in the country, because they drift off the right side and take out innocent trees.

Any decent engine builder with a good rep in Brissy should have an ultrasonic bore tester and the ability to inspect for cracks. You possibly wouldn't want to spend the money up front, but if the results come back primo then you could look to ask a decent sum for the motor. From the buyer's perspective (not me, some other buyer!) I wouldn't feel too good about dropping a G on an unknown untested block with the possibility that it is scrap.

Hmm. The block could be worth more than that, or it could be worth nothing. Depends on whether it has any cracks or not. $1k is a big gamble for a buyer. It might be worth your while to get it tested, or enter into an agreement with a buyer to get it tested before they agree to possibly pay more for it than you're asking now.

Yeah, it might be. But it is.... a massive deviation from the correct position, if it is the case. Surprising that there hasn't been tappity tap tap noises from inside. I didn't think you could do this with the VCT actuator, which is why I pointed to the exhaust cam. And we wouldn't call it a cam phasor in this application. The VCT is really only on-off and moves between two positions. A phasor is meant to control to a vernier position anywhere between max and min.

Drag it back off and put it back straight. It'll only take you 2 minutes and the risk of a broken nose.

Yeah, like a tooth out, or something similar. This is why I said that "It's a lot to suggest that it survived the engine being taken apart and reassembled" because for such a problem to have existed before, and persisted after reassembly, it means a real sneaky and unexpected problem or substantial incompetence. But when you get right down to it.....a really flat top end reeks of insufficient valve overlap - when all your other diagnoses suggest nothing wrong with the rest of the engine. Well, either that or a boost rag!

If you fit the tweeter cups in too tight to the top of the door trim you can end up being annoyed by the impossibility of dusting/wiping under the cup. And if you go too close to the the A pillar you can cause a lot of annoyance to yourself when you close the doors and tweak the screws that hold the tweeter to the triangle.

Since when is chrome-moly not billet anyway?

It's a lot to suggest that it survived the engine being taken apart and reassembled, but it looks like the exhaust cam is in the wrong spot.

Very helpful, especially on the small capacity (2.6).

Yeah, I wouldn't mess with such a museum specimen as that, and I am famous for saying "just mod it and drive it" to almost everything else. I mean, I daily my R32. Literally. To and from work every day, >10k km per year. I otherwise agree with what Duncan said. The HKS turbos aren't worth it. Assuming the engine has done no work, then it should take making 500ish wheel HP. But remember that there is actually no such thing as a "safe" power level, as anything can break at any time, especially when pushing it to way more than double the stock power. Every single one of us here who has run an engine like that has broken something in an expensive fashion at some point. Can you even use that much power in HK? Won't the CCP be putting mind control helmets on anyone trying to enjoy themselves in the brave new world?

I would suspect that someone involved in the game of importing/complying or unf**kulating these things might have an idea. Perhaps enquire with Iron Chef, Cars From Japan, if they know how (or if possible/impossible) or if they know someone who can do it. It might be a case of having the correct jailbreaking box or a nice workaround toolset (ie rub your stomach while patting your head and humming the Finnish national anthem backwards).

Except don't do this because all the Chinese Android HUs are shit.

It is my understanding that R35 coils will want up to about 3ms dwell time at 14V. Can get away with a bit less if they are not being asked to work very hard**. **which would defo be the case on an NA 25. I am not sure what the NA 25Neo dwell time is. Nistune would suggest that it is about 3ms for almost all stock Nissan coilpacks/ECUs. This would suggest that you'll probably be overdoing the dwell time on an R35 coil, but it should survive.