SargeRX8

Do you have the standard oil cooler/warmer? I don't know if this could happen but maybe the oil is heating up and in turn heating up the water...

When the car is ready, I'll leave that up to you lol. I'm just tinkering with low tiny load and idle.

I corrected my injector settings. Only thing that would have changed is the AFM voltage settings thing. All the boxes after the init were 100%, on my tune they taper down to 85%. I am using the settings which my car was tuned on, 52 10ms but I am aware that the nismo are 50 14 but as it was tuned, it how it will stay. Before I fiddle further I will do a compression test when my coils arrive and new plugs get dropped in.

Its not about being lazy really lol, I know the settings for my Nismo injectors 50 and 14ms but just wanted to ask as I read in a different thread that you can leave it at 100% 0ms and tune the car based on that. This scaling shit is weird to me. There are many places which can affect scaling. Example, my % for my AFM aren't at 100%. Each voltage gets a lower %. At 0.64 its 100%, the next one is 96 next one 95 then eventually 85. I don't know why it is like this(They are all 100% by default) but that is how it got tuned for $800 so there must be a reason behind it. Also I done an init on my ECU, let it self learn the idle(after setting the AFM and injectors settings) and it started and idled just fine. I went to copy my old map across and now it feels the same again. Weird shit.

I was just having a read around and from what Ive read it seems that injector settings are just a correction to compensate for the changed injectors, an easy fix so to speak. If you are going to tune the car from scratch, for example, after you init the power fc, could you use those standard settings of 100% 0ms to tune the car to the correct afr? Technically this should work as the car will be tuned around the injectors on that setting. I don't see it not working like this. The correction is just the easy way out for when you have a tune and then don't want to retune because of injectors, just get the correct settings and bam. But if you start from a clean slate at 100% and fix setup the AFR's in the injector map, it should be fine. Right?

If it sounds like this Its the cam cover.

Its the cam cover. Put pressure on the top driver side and it should go away. No idea how you fix it, alot of rb motors do it.

Dirty oil? Too much pressure? Over filled? Did it come out as vapour or a stream

You can't have two jews in a sale, I'll be the jew in this case.

Does anyone here, around Sydney, have the stock BOV return pipe for the R33? I think the R32 one is the same but not too sure. If you don't need/want it let me know. Its a piece of metal tube, I'm not going to pay much for it if you want money for it so if you are one of those jews who charges drug money for a part simply because its a "stock part", keep it.

On the topic of brass nipples, get another smaller one which is the same size as your vacuum line and tap it into your hot pipe and run your boost source off that for your actuator/boost controller. This one has to be tapped in nicely and sealed up.

An even cheaper option is to get a brass nipple with maybe a 3/8 end and tap that into your intake pipe and put some sealant around it. Its only vacuum so as long as its sealed it won't blow out and it will be running fine. Get that actuator on and as long as its performing to spec, I can almost guarantee you will get the performance you should.

Spending money trying to fix things, I know that game and so do many other skyliners.

Hey all, Need a set of coil packs for an Rb25det series 2 motor asap. Don't mind if they are used as long as you can tell me how long they have been run and guarantee they work. Please PM me.

Hahaha

That is how it sounds, a light tinny sound. I need to get the turbo back to you but I can't be without a car at the moment... Still need to fix up my intake pipe. Its been knocking since I changed it so this may indicate more flow.

I pay 21 for my ngk plugs. I use heat range 7, scared to try 6 in the car. I don't thrash it but this hot weather and traffic driving with the occasional squirt....

Tao is it normal to hear like the front compressor wheel spinning? I never noticed it but now I can hear it, sounds exactly like my old high flow. Very feint but if you listen for it you can hear it...

My car always fired up when it was hitting 44 degrees timing, now it never starts first time when cold and only hits 25 degrees. Do you just use map tracer and see what cells are used during cranking and up them?

60? My car runs 740cc nismo injectors, I hit 56 full throttle. And here I am hoping to go e85... Didn't seem right that I can't go to 90%...

So you are getting spark and getting fuel. If base timing is fine, try unplug your afm. 3 things to get a car to start, fuel, air and spark. You 100% sure your timing is on the money?

My first skyline was modified before I bought it. I knew nothing about the car but loved it. Bought this one stock, I know the parts used and everything else inside out. I spent the same amount on both cars too.

I don't have a wideband yet but I will be getting an AEM Uego unit hopefully tomorrow if this guy answers his phone! I'm close to the money on the settings as it seems, maybe ill give it +14ms and tune from there. At the moment, I am not doing anything fancy, just sorting out the pops and splutters on idle and cruising, so ill be adding more fuel rather than pulling which should be safe to do without a wideband. I just listen to it and when the pops are gone I know I'm done lol. Quite interesting this tuning stuff.

I'm currently getting about 370km to the tank of, I wouldn't say city driving, but normal street driving with the occasional squirt. Will increasing this light throttle send this to the shitter? I was looking back at your old figures for cruising AFR's and you say to run a little richer when above 80km/h so once I get, as VLT said, an inverter(rather than that, ill just get a laptop charger which can pump 4a and use that), ill get it on the road with a wide band and just have a f**k around with it. I'm not interested in touching any of the power cells, just the cruising and light load. Ill put some screen dumps of my ignition timing and injector map as it stands. Also I am running Nismo 740cc injectors, 55% correction and +10 latency.. Correct?

How long ago in that HG thread did I say it was the actuator lol. This IS a definitive answer. Your car made more boost at points it never could when you eliminated the actuator from the equation. Done and done. Get that new bitch on her and enjoy.