R31Nismoid

Well they leak @ idle/low throttle, so not really... As the air is going through the turbos but not making it to the intake so response would be doughy as a result. You'd need BOV's that seal always in that situation

$3000 worth of prizes just came in… More details to come. Includes products from Castrol, Xforce, Yokohama…

I've had/went through (2) dayco belts on mine before, and they kept slipping/tearing apart with higher RPM Put a OEM on there and it was never a problem again... OEM belts on my 25, and now on both 26's all been over 300-380rwkw/8500rpm no drama.

Headgasket size needs to be decided once everything else is taken into account as r33_racer said. Depends on the comp ratio the motor is being build too which included the bottom and top ends to "work" together. You are sorta going it a bit backwards if you don't know whats being done with the head yet. Even with a 1.8mm you won't be running 28psi on PULP through -5s for a start with a basic head. All for 350rwkw is odd too as you could do that on 18psi with a stock motor I'd be a little concerned about the build with the 'advice' being given out thus far.

The AFM calibration needs to change if you put a Z32 sensor into a GTR housing. It won't read the same if you do this as the piping is smaller and the AFM calibration does not understand this. This is why a Z32 & Nismo AFM are not identical, they actually read differently. It works the other way also by putting a stock AFM into larger piping, it will max out later using the same sensor I'm still confused though as to why you keep saying they are too expensive/$1000??? Z32 Just Jap - $700 Nismo AFM - Greenline - $800 (+$15 delivery) A lot of stuffing around to save $100

No real other way to tell them to measure them. That ebay seller can be trusted, a friend of mine - his parents run that. So you won't be done over. However if you dont have a highly modded car - go the cheaper option: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-Slotted-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-/130561514711?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e66129cd7 Also then ensure you combine them with: - Decent brake pads (either from same seller, or from a SAU Trader: gslrallysport) - Fluid flush/change And you'll get excellent braking performance at a reasonable cost.

All priority entry info has been sent to State Exec/Clubs. So expect the logon password for the entry to appear in your club section in the next day or so. Entry going live Friday night!!!

Massive list update... bucket load of people coming Priority entry goes up Friday 8pm AEST. SAU Club members will get the private access information via PM or EMAIL

or perhaps something else isn't affixed correctly and moving things around. have a good look as you really should not be having any major issues in that department

You'll need a retune to stop the stalling/backfiring issues that you'll get. comp surge might also start to occur.

Ye another vote for incorrect installation of the TB's, such a common problem that leads to high idle.

A stock one is fine for 400rwkw+ anyway, so not worth thinking bout

ah i see! mine should be up there shortly too then

lol i was joking Bris, calm down

Richo - you formed yourself yet? My forms are in!

You can just user better clamps, that said I was using stock clamps for 20,000kms over 2 cars, and they were fine. They were recently swapped however as it was suspected there might have been a minor boost leak. Are you sure your engine mounts are in good order? Sounds like there is perhaps some more movement than normal going on?

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Nah I CBF'd with taking it out/refitting all the time. I’d have to take it out before I leave the apartment I live in, takes f’in ages to get to the car park, so end up having to do 3 trips (already have to do 2). I don’t think I need an amp to have a reasonable system in there for that budget. Yeah it is indeed. I just want ease of use, cause I’m lazy Well I have no idea what is in there now, the head unit is old as it wont even play MP3 – I’m guessing at least 7 years old going by previous owners who I know weren’t interested in that at all so anything is going to be better than what is in there currently. I aint *that* anal about the sound quality. Long as its not noticeably out like you are describing. Haha ye I had 6x9s in my old ZJ fairlane 9yrs ago with a small amp, was awesome and cheap. Oh and ipod plugs – I give no fark for any of that. I’ll be strict USB stick only. Single DIN too.

Indeed it is, and i think it's ridiculous. But at the end of the day that's how it is, and it will never change. Australians simply don't give enough of a shit to change this type of thing. Everyone bags the French, but look what happened when they wanted to up the retirement age, they rioted! We need that kinda passion here, but being a young country and so multi cultural, it'll never happen.

Hard pipe kits have been known to cause issues with compressor surge. Same as changing stock BOV’s In short – leave them both alone. Seen plenty of cars make 400rwkw+ with stock piping. It's not required, nor should it be changed.

OK so the sound in the GTR is just terrible and now giving me the shits... So any input surrounding the below requirements would be appreciated. Required: 1x head unit, must have USB & MP3 2x front speakers 2x rear speakers Budget: $700 not including labour or wiring Restrictions: No amps allowed, pain in the ass with track day scrutineering. Gotta be bolt in for the fronts, rear not much of an issue, can be customised.

If it does, all you can do is laugh really. Or it might then unsettle the shaft due to the RPM, and send the exhaust wheel dust back in. attack on both fronts, sure to make the tops of the piston look cool.

It is definately the tow bar holding the car back.

Stuff will come via your club committee - ill be shooting them all the info to put in member areas

Just go down to Bunnings mate, plenty of options.