R31Nismoid

I think mine is just the standard from what I've been told when i purchased. Stood up and taken some rather nasty abuse the last 12 months and still holds fine. I think Piggaz & a couple others have the Comp spec one?

Noisy as in what way? I can't hear anything out of mine... But then the exhaust isn't exactly quiet but even @ 4000rpm in first just holding RPM there is a bit of noise i suppose, you are asking quite a subjective question

Generally it seems to only be around 20-30rwkw though in terms of gains. I think 350-360rwkw would be more realistic. What would be more interesting though... How much earlier would they come on? Given everyone seems to gain a few hundred RPM response. Getting -9s on even sooner would really be quite something. Whilst 200-300rpm might not sound like a lot, if its coming up in/out of throttle faster too... It would be awesome!

How do you know someone only used it for 6 months? You don't. AFM's are so cheap that it's just not worth the risk. They seem to only last 10yrs anyway so almost a consumable like a timing belt really. They certainly don't last the life of the car at all. AFM's are known to fail regularly. A 2nd hand Z32 could be 5 years old for all you know, and belted around a bit. For the sake of a couple $$, just get a new one.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/373961-r32-pod-filter-air-box-questions/ Same question a week ago - its normal.

What do you think will happen to the 335i in 18 months? You'll still drop 30-40k as you purchased new. Could say the same about a 2008 335i with 30k on the clock given they sell around 80k! Still a nice car either way.

Why risk it with a 2nd hand AFM? It simply is a waste of money. But a new one, from a respected workshop - you won't get a fake, or one that could break in 6 months.

Warm & Cloudy works, less chance of Bec being lobster style by the end of the day

Be one of two things 1. Exhaust manifold is a cheap china copy, and it's cracked. 2. You didnt change the manifold studs when putting on the manifold, and a few have broken.

There is a over 400rwkw thread + the RB26 dyno thread... Not really hard to workout what is needed

Yes, why? Remember you are looking @ PEAK values, they could occur anywhere.

Not really sure what relevance the dyno graphs have to all this... BUT just up the limiter to 7300-7500 and don't go past 7000? That way you won't hit the limiter which isn't good for the motor. Nothing else needs to be considered (gearbox, diff etc). 20psi/400HP is nothing for the RB25 head, nor is 8000rpm. Unless rebuilt just don't push the stocker, it'll last years like everyone else.

Raffle going to be running on the day - So get up there early and get yourself a ticket! 8 chances isn't bad odds actually given the amount of people will probably drive up in the morning (from Vic), so the odds of winning if you get up there early-ish are quite good. I'll be buying 100 LOL

What turbo/ECU setup?

I think that's PB's for Chris & Ant indeed, Ant is hoofing with that new set-up and stocker 33R brakes too Solid day @ the Island indeed for quite a few others too, i think more have busted PB's as well!

I really don't know how people are still getting them confused with the capabilities. There is sooo much information... -7s / R34 N1 = 300rwkw -9s / GT-SS = 320-340rwkw -5s = 370-400rwkw -10s = 400rwkw+ It's not expensive to pay 3k when you think your stock turbo's, can & will lunch a motor if you lean on them too much. Whats cheaper? Turbos or a motor rebuild? And it's not just about peak power either (of which your statement of only 30kw is wrong), its the midrange bonus you also get which the factory items lack. So -9s will actually give you closer to 60-70rwkw up top - and MUCH more mid range whilst maintaining brilliant response, can't ask for anything more than that really and for 3k, it's the best value you'll get for a streeter. Add in some cam gears, exhaust, clutch & tune... The result is one mighty quick GTR around the street and occasional track visit. Sorry but off the lights a Silvia isn't in the same league as a GTR. Even with 350-360rwkw I get almost full traction in 1st/2nd once the tyres have some heat.

Set some goals, and a budget - then have a look through the RB25 Dyno Results thread. PLENTY of options for you to look at and choose from. Some setups cost 2k, some cost 15k - all comes down to a decision you need to make. Cheers.

Ye for the sake of 10-15rwkw, I'd get the smaller turbos every day off the week. If you want me to take you for a run in my car Ross let me know as i have -5s I did have -9s previously & for a street car i'd strongly recommend you get -9s.

The AFM has a voltage reading, can be seen by the PowerFC hand controller and no doubt Consult. It's not the airflow reading you need to go off either. It's the actual voltage. If it's stalling then the sensor for the AFM1 or AFM2 will actually show up as having failed. I never clean my AFMs regularly. Once a year tops. Just use some degreaser and then heaps of water to wash it out. Works fine.

Please supply the required info. Supplier must be named as per GB Rules.

I'll do my bit in the arvo here/there as always when I come up

If anyone missed this car @ WTAC then there is some news about. Mark & Trent @ Mercury have been generous enough to offer bringing the car down for the SAU Nationals... AND... Went one step further by offering the chance for 4 lucky people to get into the car for some Hot Laps @ the Track Day Not a bad experience that one!

So the big question, do you still need to take the engine out to do everything?

Seb's car mate, certainly looks fun from the videos

Yeah their idea was very different to mine and unfortunately no amount of planning would have fixed that. But no matter, can't win em all. Might have to make it 3-days next year, and include DECA so people can get upto as much of that as they want in the space of 8 hours