R31Nismoid

Have you read the thread? I'm struggling to understand why you'd ask that given the half a dozen posts so far... All the replies clearly say you won't MAKE extra power, torque, or BOV noises swapping the AFM.

It stinks out ya place with a strawberry smell I can smell it everytime i walk in the door lol

If the area is signed as NO STANDING, then that's exactly what it means - NO STANDING! There is no excuse you can use. It's like making up a reason for doing 65 in a 60 zone to get out of a speeding fine. Or being in a clearway and 3mins after the signed time, you have a fine & car is getting towed. Whilst a lot of stuff is harsh - ye, they are road rules.

No you said: "how much power people can get from this modification". That is distinctly different to "give you more potential to make more power ". The AFM swap did not give you power. Something else did. It's common knowledge a Z32 or Nismo AFM will 'read' more air than a stock AFM. Either way @ 250rwkw, your stock AFMs were not maxed out.

Updated now. Had stuff on last week.

Pics now attached. Price $800 ONO H/C has a small area damage as pictured however still works fine and gives readouts. The liquid had not 'run' at all, it has been like that for 4 years so safe to say it never will.

lol

Yeah Z32 won't give you more power. Any extra power would come from tune adjustments, boost, dyno variance etc. Could even be the old AFM's were on the way out for instance. Or you had a minor leak, so replacing/refitting piping removed that etc. Plenty of reasons why there is more power - the AFM's though ain't one of them.

How can you hate somewhere and the rules if you are the one breaking them? Put car in no standing zone, get fined = fair enough. Reason is irrelevant.

How long is a piece of string? It's more about tune and what not than a specific power figure. Given you are pulling it apart anyway, for around $1200 you can get a set in there that will take a bit of a rattle where a stock piston would otherwise fail miserably. Stock rods are fine for that power level - plenty of people using them (RB26 dyno results thread, all in there). You need to start using the search a bit more mate.

Given we already have a tread on this... don't need another.

I've got a Nismo front diff, so it doesn't break again. Stock rear diff though, they are usually fine so i'll just get another. I'll drop the shaft first and make 100% sure it's not working

LOL yes doing 7500rpm launches on Hoosier drag radials a few months ago might have made a mess of the rear diff too. Usually i'd only launch @ 4000-4500rpm and it would turn tyres easy on the skidpan. However there was addition of Racepace-spec Tiens... So was launching @ 6500rpm or 6700rpm, and it was still bogging on occassions as it just has heaps of grip now. Felt heaps more settled on the back track too. Certainly worth the money.

Also depends on how much boost you intend to run as to how much the gate actually needs to let past. Read the "FI Guide", there is information on it in there.

hrmm... Rear not locking would be the reason it wouldn't spin around on itself. Perhaps it is stuffed as well

Well new Nismo front diff officially doesn't like 4WD helli's like a stock one does :( Couldn't get it turning on a 10c piece like i have with a stock diff. Great weekend though overall, much thanks to all the volunteers all over the day. Much appreciated.

Do ya know if the 800s are different? I remember there being a difference at the top, just not what

2010 i think was 2-3 months different to 2011 date? So there is variation. I wouldn't be assuming anything to be honest, especially if it involved booking in leave @ work lol. You could find you have a holiday with nothing on

There will be separate "cruise up" threads later guys, so just relax on that for now. Still a long way off yet.

Spray/nozzle is also different 700 to 800 I cant remember exactly which way it is, but one is twin and one is single. Im fairly certain the 700s were the twins... (but please dont take that as 100%, cant remember when i looked @ mine )

It will not be changed, there is a distinct reason for it. If you want to know more, please read the 7+ page thread about it in this section.

The truth hath been spoken. Go Garrett.

If 2011 dates announcement is anything to go buy, you won't find out till 2012.

All turbos run out of slow. Issue however, you wouldn't run ANYMORE than 10-11psi on a 3ltr with stock GTR turbos... Why? Because if one fails, chances are it'll destroy the motor as well. It is simply not worth the risk. If you aren't going swap turbos, dont do a conversion

lol 2hrs 45mins Never taken me that long.