R31Nismoid

So that's pretty much the end of this build thread, given it's not going ahead? (ps, SIF buy a GTR after all that bullshit in the GTR vs GT-t thread...)

Any further thought to the cams you are going to use? A friend of mine is finally about to put his RB30DETT/-5 combo in (A Racepace motor incidentally, hopefully installed soon), and I do recall discussions being had a while ago when iI thought about 3ltr also that the stock cams indeed would need a bit of an upgrade. Not a lot of cam though, just a mild set. One would think the usual Poncam could potentially fit that bill quite nicely as they are a mild upgrade.

A Mate & I both had one each, brought em @ the same time as well... A manual one was simply the most amusing, one of the funniest cars i have owned - I remember going down the GOR in it, doing 60-80km/h around some of the corners was hilarious with the body roll and tyre squeal. It almost made the GOR 100x better considering you can never open a fast skyline up safely these days in those parts haha.

More posts removed. Dan has already made it quite clear, either follow the advice, or warnings will be handed out. DO NOT POST UNLESS YOU ARE INTERESTED. Posting a page of dribble and then "bump for a nice car" will not get you off.

Moved here... Before this totally goes off the rails, which inevitable... I can spin the tyres in a KE Ford Laser... It would be lucky to have what, 40fwkw? Used to be able to have it wheel spinning into 3rd which whilst amusing, was rather pointless. So have a think about that. Totally comes down to throttle control. If you expect a 190rwkw car to have traction in the wet, then you are very naive good sir. Any car will spin the wheels in the wet if you force it. Failing that, I would suggest using 99% throttle instead of 100%. That'll fix it.

Honestly for those mods and power i don't really think there is much point in spending $700. I mean you have free power - boost. Another 2psi would give you more gains the porting a stocker manifold. I think stock manifold wise you'll be quite fine. Also the time/labour to fit/refit etc.

Please put the cash in ASAP, makes life easier and saves people chasing.

Paul - what is the current setup? That might help us a bit, need a tad more info

Factory RB25 you can do 280rwkw safely (about the limit IMO). A RB20 @ this power level will be quite laggy, however the RB25 isn't "too" bad. Its basically where the compromise point is. But as asked, depends what you want mate. Use of car? Motorsport? Response required? Drag? what?

Please use the search function, there is PLENTY of info on the ins & outs of RB22/RB24. Thanks.

stock injectors @ factory rail will do around 280rwkw quite safely. Sounds like your fuel pump needs replacing, and no - a reg will not fix it. Only make it worse

The forum has an email feature.

You cannot pull the fuse in a R33 or R34, only the R32

So isn't that why you started the thread? To be educated on it? I think 6 people now have told you what needs to be done - and also the fact that putting a larger sump on wont necessarily fix the issue... I certainly haven't been taught that you need external oil drainage from a motor, so whoever told you that is wrong.

A answer of "XX" psi is a silly and dangerous one mate. So are you going to get it tuned? If not, then i wouldn't be running 18psi at all.

Thinking about it more, 2x 480's wouldn't be on till closer to 6000rpm i reckon at a stab. And 380's would also be... terrible I mean a -5 is "rated" at 350-380hp or whatever and they start to come good around 3800-4300rpm, the KKR's would be laggier again.

Post prices or this will be locked.

N1 turbos are not ceramic

That cannot be answered. We try our best to process everything as fast as possible. Submit your membership and we will endeavour to sort it out.

Yet you post this 2 days ago? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/En...-D-t342395.html Something isn't adding up, flashing like that = detonation = running mega lean.

^ Are you purposefully posting rubbish tonight? Anyway, what type of "rebuild" did the 2nd set undergo? Wheels changed? Also is it the same turbo? Is there enough oil flow? How much boost is being run?

Silly question. And an equally silly first response. Depends on the motor condition. Have you had it checked? Depends on the tune/tuner. Have you had it looked into by a reputable tuner? Depends on supporting mods. Are all the supporting mods in place?

lol

I'll be in - im sending email to my Nissan man also on Wed, will find out the discounted pricing in Aus for comparo (I don't pay RRP)

^ I've got some more to add now I actually appreciate the RE001’s more than I did previously after the past few days. Read on below to see... Having driven my GTR the past week and a bit daily (which rides on Semi comps), 4 days in the epic rain, I was driving everywhere @ 50km/h – no bullsh|t - and simply because it was jumping around that much it was fking dangerous even for someone with my level of experience, which whilst not worldy, I'm certainly no noobie to such conditions. My HR31 with RWD in the belting rain and RE001s was more leagues more sane in the wet than my GTR on Semis. Its impossible to describe the effort required to pilot the GTR the past week in the bucketing rain. I was hugely more cautious as the car was aqua'in all over the place, sliding, tramlining... Was an interesting experience none the less. All I can say is god help someone on their Ps trying to do the same or someone that doesn't know what to expect. I was actually tired after doing about 200km's in the rain/GTR lol, too much concentration required - but i'd do it again regardless - experience is priceless Interestingly, the semi's (AD06s/032R which I realise are superseded now) and RE001s cost around the same. New price there was around a $250 a set if my numbers serve me correctly The difference between a good & bad wet weather tyre is huge Horses for courses really. Tyres have never been a simple thing to decide upon