R31Nismoid

You are already in the first post... 8 Harsh Gupta R33GTR

When the poor bloke dealing with 100 pages coming out of his fax machine, I'm sure it'll be updated. Entries officially opened today, reasonable to expect it might take 1-2 days for things to be processed.

Same boat as MINES and all the rest no doubt, worth about nothing

Turn the boost down for 3 months then! Wont need a retune

More random thoughts... No modified car will be "issue-less", built yourself, by someone else - there are bound to be problems as the cars are 15yrs old or more now, and thats a fact of life. Someone that’s spent time, money & plenty of love on a car will undoubtedly have a more reliably modded car than yours will be once you change parts. I mean hell, a month ago I had a steel water line let go – basically motor out to fix. Stock or modded, it would have occurred. That’s just part and parcel of owning old cars for a start It'll take longer to find a good/well modded example IMO, however it'll be worth it in the long run 10 fold I'll stop harping on now

^ Yer. I even booked servers ... 12-16 people would say they would come And we'd get about 6

They are nice reasons mate, i too had that view as well for quite a while, infact a large number of people probably did. Especially if you've been around 5+ years as those cars just didnt exist way back when. Times have changed though & this time around I've purchased a very well modded car, circuit ready - for nowhere near what it would cost starting from scratch. I'll have it hopefully in the next week or so There are plenty of brilliantly modified cars here in Vic, from reputable workshops and most of them are regular's @ trackdays etc. I would strongly suggest you go along to such events, most people have a price they would sell their car for - GTR or GTS-t. (FYI a 300rwkw GTR will be faster than a GTS-t hands down simply dude to grip) If you go with the attitude of "someone elses problem" i think that's silly. You'll have just as many problems (if not more) in the process of modifying your own. Buying someone else's reliably running car, means they've gone through that and sorted it out in due course What is your intended use for the car? How old are you? You also need to factor not only suspension, but brakes and tyres. I mean 18's & tyres alone will come in around 3k depending on what you decide You'd mince probably 6-8k just in suspension/brakes/diff/clutch and that's without even anything relating to the engine bay which wouldn't see a cent out of 7-8k IMO. Otherwise if you wanna pursue this plan - read Hamish's post above, he's listed the parts you'll need.

Did you use a proper twin scroll manifold with the twin scroll housing?

350rwkw even End of the day it looks like this: - More attention from Police - No majorly tangible performance again for most street cars. - Potential risk of a "copy" coming over and end cost being ~$600 (once you get it fitted, cleaned up etc). If you can't justify the cost of a decent, well proven item in terms of bolt on quality, then bang for buck you need to be looking at different things than plenums anyhow. There are far better things to be spending money on, and as it sounds like you are on a tight budget - I'd be looking for things that will actually offer some much better benefits. Better turbo, exhaust, brakes/suspension, perhaps even just a good all round service and changing all the oils for a nice reliability point of view. Either way as stated this has been covered many times now and it basically comes down to the 3 points above.

RB25's have VCT etc, so its not as pronounced, some people have seen very little gains. RB26's don't have the VCT and do respond well, each car is different so there is no "golden" setting

^ Exactly. Plenty of people using stock "modded" ones. Talk to your tuner, they will be able to organise.

You can get your factory gears modded for around $150 Half the price of jap brand name gear, and they do exactly the same job.

Sell it then and buy one with the extra 15k you have. Would make around28k would get you a very well modified R33 GTR for that kinda cash.

Good gains from cam gears - have a search, there are plenty of threads. For a $150 part, best bang for buck.

Ye posted up here a long time ago, its almost a year old Original: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1936851 SAU link in Feb: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...ll-t309655.html Pretty much the next "8 months" is now here, there is no decline in product quality at all - lot of hot air about nothing.

Paid. Will fax forms tomorrow @ work.

Extra cooling on a CPU does not neccesarily increase performance. It might allow you to overclock/tweak more performance out of it. The two are not the same. It would offer no benefit to a car ECU.

You need to buy a Garrett housing, not some other brand that might not even bolt up!

That wasn't my intent mate Sometimes if im busy posting from work then I'm just "to the point". Happy you are now educated on the matters!

What .82 vs 1.06? Simple really, for a 2.5l its the best combo. 370rwkw or so can be done by a GT35 with a .82, if you are running a 3ltr then get the 1.06 Just about exhaust flow really and hence for the 2.5l you simply don't need the bigger housing as the .82 brings on nice and linear power without choking the top end at all. For a 3ltr, you would get the 1.06 IMO. Of course you wouldnt be impressed. 330rwkw from -5's is nothing. They are a 380-400rwkw combination mate. 330rwkw they are asleep, and the wrong turbo choice.

Do you have at least 10k? Otherwise forget chasing 300rwkw IMO. Just do some basic mods, get a tune and live with it.

What you have posted is factually wrong. I doubt there are any P platers under the OLD system. (125kw/tonne) The new system outright bans turbos - that is fact, that is on the VicRoads website. Your story is one of luck only.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ru...ssi-t76463.html

Did you see the irony in your comment there? He's gotta pick them by default then Either way it's Garrett -9 (GT-SS) or the -5s (2530). Buy the Garretts, for all intents and purposes they are same - HKS's are not worth the coin new. -9s for tighter stuff = winner. -5's for a track there top speed/top end is more important. But if you are going to be doing more rally/khana type stuff then you want the response and transient gains the small turbo offers for quick on/off type stuff and much more progressive. My GT-SS's will be for sale shortly (1month or so once i ge the motor out, motor buyer doesnt want em)...

Not sure what the bank is gonig to do exactly after you have EFT'd the money through. Your only option is to contact the local state authorities. Buyer beware guys.