R31Nismoid

1.8% - Yep, certainly more critical things to spend the money on as i said in the first post Which is really the point at the end of the day. Nice to have... However pointless when there are 100 other points that need addressing for this users aim in a midly powered circuit car. Removing the sound deadening would be significantly more beneficial and you can do that for around $100.

Racepace do the testing - I'm inclinded to believe their results. Afterall, it is what you pay for and expect when such advice is given Hard to argue when the results are there.

Simply because you can't lose it for one offence. You need at least two as a P plater in, or 5 as a full license holder

Well a product maker isn't going to tell you their product doesnt do anything are they now? IMO your buying simply because it has a jap label is silly, and pointless. Especially for a circuit car where they are far more crucial things - but we've all said it 10 times now in th MSport area

lol Hardtuned AKA NS.com oh the irony...

^ Not in my neck of the woods there isn't lol

Oh i agree - im sure there is some alteration - somewhere. But they are all out racecars where some things are not important (like low end response, coupled with different gearing, motor properties etc, all subjective)

^ Same - I ran 24psi/370rwkw on the street - controlled by the right foot. Getting the actuator as close to the target boost is what you want. None of this "hi/low" boost business.

Does that mean we should all go out and buy one Trent? Along with tricky prop shafts, possibly different diff gears and so on? Factory is fine - Racepace have tested it, factory was better for what you want over a Greddy/Nismo. If they were good, then cars wouldn't have had them taken off for a stock one to go back on Same as all your other fancy bits mate - 95% of them are not going to offer you any benefits @ the track - learning to drive your new car over a season or two will give you far better improvment and the best part... It's free

is boost response still the same? Does it feel laggier all of a sudden? If so, loose actuator will let the gate "flapper" bounce around and can cause that noise. Common issue/tell-tale sign with hi-flows that use factory actuator so its plausible it could occur with a factory turbo as well. Failing that - drop the exhaust @ the CAT and see what might fall out!

Mate you can't even describe the problem in accurate detail, troubleshoot parts or anything. Im not having a go at you, but honestly people can keep throwing suggestions at you for the next month and you'll still not get it fixed. There are decent workshops in each state for this type of thing. Failing one there is always a 2nd choice. Now i find it hard to believe you've been too two reputable workshops - not tuners - workshops. This is a mechanical issue unrelated to the cars tune.

A boost restriction? Sounds more tune related than anything else. To test from exhaust restriction, simply unbolt and do another dyno run. You'll soon see if the problem sits there. If it doesn't then its tune or some other part having issues.

Please think before posting...

RB25's have a issue with GCG hi-flows when using the factory actuator, you actually need to buy a heavy duty one and they are lazy up onto boost in a number of cases. I feel GCG should MAKE people buy a new actuator as part of the purchase, but they don't and can lead to unhappy customers simply because they are uneducated... (unless its changed recently?) Whilst the RB20 one holds a tad more standard, it is by no means a heavy duty one and i would be changing it by default were it my car.

cant believe you are still even asking about it. 6k for a R34 GTT - alarm bells my friend, heed them.

Funny that...

motor in/out, plus the cost of the crank thrown in there as well.... Would be 4k if the crank wasnt stuffed.

a cars weight has nothing to do with "torque loss". a car making "1000nm" will make it whether the car weighs in @ 1tonne or 2tonne. drivetrain differences *might* have an impact, but it'll be minor for the sake of this topic.

Without a crank - 4k give/take. With a crank 5k give/take. Thats in/out and assembly costs. Either way soon as you include a crank its double the cost of a replacement 2nd hand motor... 2x over infact. So logically speaking even if the first motor is a dud - you would still almost be infront getting a 2nd - 2nd/hand motor.

So use Nismo AFM's. Basically a Z32 body in a factory shell. Bolts upto stock piping, good for over 400rwkw - what more do you want? If you say you wanna use 2nd hand AFM's to save money - sell the GTR now.

Mate its about time you took the car to a decent workshop to get it checked out. All your threads seem to point to one thing - you car has issues, they need a professional to look into.

Hence i said change the bolts - they are the only downside and can be fixed up for $15 or less, $200+ cheaper than the jap items Racepace mod stock gears into adjustables, just use good bolts and tahts that!

cheaper gears are fine - generally though just change the bolts out for better quality ones. cam gear cover sits over them, so who cares what they look like? You can even have stock gears modified for around the price of ebay ones

Nooooo...... not another GT35 with a .63 rear!!!!!

How much boost? Im making 280rwkw, factory cams with GT-SS's on i think 16psi