Duncan

Looks like some runs are up on youtube: Alex, damn close until last cone which I think was WD: Here is his incar, you can see how steering wheel work is needed for such a big heavy car on tight courses: Awesome apex watching too, I think he was looking out the rear window at times. Tim's incar, the first one in particular shows how well has was handling the tight turns and getting close to the cones And outcar from the same as the first vid. One win, one lose, its amazing how totally different lines end up with such similar times. Aggrodave, also drove really well but some cone hits hurt overall https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCrlrUwWCps Two of eric's runs And none of the leaf, no surprise, it doesn't sound very interesting! Basically this event didn't suit our club's cars, but the whole point of this series to have a whole heap of different types of events....if everything suited Skylines we should just call it the Skyline Nationals! Our job at this event was to get as high up the club chart until the other events so that we can defend last year's title

Nissan. but you'll need your VIN and FAST to turn 14075N into a full part number. if you post up here someone can look it up. BTW is it a metal part/joiner? If so you can get a decent workshop to repair it by brazing or welding

yeah that's a really common issue when they haven't been apart for a while. what car? I know the gtr ones are readily available from Nissan at a reasonable price....because I've had to replace a few over the years for the same reason

nah its not like that at all, actually the driving from the team was excellent.....they were just using standard cams courses and they are f**king tight. That double kidney thing, even the leaf had trouble driving through at about 10k/h it was so damn tight. There were a few cones slaughtered by the big cars though, at 5sec each that hurts

nah we towed it there to make sure we were OK, drove home fine with it. actually we had plenty of juice in the end Dale, yeah mine is 2000kg, but even then the leaf for example would be 2.2 (1.8 + 400 trailer) so that's not great. Not to mention the tow bar was never engineered anyway (like every other mod I've got). Plenty of ways to potentially be caught out.

BTW Dale in NSW it is the manufacturer's recommended weight, or 1.5 times the weight of the tow car if there is no manufacturer weight (which I guess is the case with most imports, since the RAWS is considered the manufacturer).

Towed the leaf (1800kg) to the Nulon nationals motorkhana yesterday....

Thanks Ciaran for the pics, and also for organising food/drinks/shelter for the club on a hot day. I really enjoyed the event and I reckon as a group we drove really well....but damn some of you guys hate cones Did anyone see either overall results, or how the club was going? Last I saw we were all in the top 20 and 5th (by 7sec) in the club comp

man, motorsport is starting early this year! Thanks to Nulon putting this on again, hopefully we can make a start defending last year's title!

but where!

+1, common fault and a common repair, it will be as good as new. Don't forget to check the other side too.

Hey Roy, if you come across the rear, outer LCA ball joint sizes can you post them up too? Or are all the ones you've been posting for the rear LCA outer ball joint?

Still no worky for me, thanks for trying though! when I hit "Quote" with BBCode mode on, it does not quote anything. If I hit quote with BBCode mode off it quotes the post in the quick reply box

I guess that was the problem....everything I went to fix today was already handled. let me know (or just report posts) if there's anything left.

Yep there is a plastic float for the fuel sender, but if it is working OK it is connected OK It should not contact the side of the tank though, just check that the float/pump mount is aligned properly (ie 2 outlets facing the front of the car) and it should not hit anything

well that prolly makes find space easier. also explains why he does that bloody drive all the time have a great break everyone

thanks, that one is gone.

yeah I do the drive once a week for work too, but can't really move a bonnet....they just won't fit inside anything short of a van or truck

lol you can say it's name, it's the price that hurts....over 20k.... Plus sequentials are illegal in every racing category in Australia except supercars and Porsche cup.....so it would make an expensive trackday car

There are very few differences between standard 32 and 33 gearboxes, and in any case the 32 stuff has been superseded by Nissan with the 33 series 3 internals; so if you rebuild your box you get 33 series 3 stuff anyway. A standard box is fine for 350kw assuming you are not abusing it (and it sounds like you aren't). If your current gearbox is noisey (bearings) or crunchy (synchros) you can get it rebuilt for under 2k. But in most cases noisey is the thrust bearing which is external to the box and easily replaced, the second most common noise is the front bearing on the gearbox which can also be replaced without much trouble. BTW you don't have to change the clutch to use a 33 gearbox, they can be converted back to r32 style (pull clutch) by swapping across the front cover of your current box into a 33 one. I bought a brand new 33 box years ago for the race car and did that conversion to suit 32. Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket I wouldn't do anything gearbox wise

Hi Ben, what's wrong with you current gearbox, and what are your future plans for the car? They are a very strong box from the factory (not many cars come standard with a box that handles 2-3x factory power) so what you have may not need anything, particularly if it doesn't crunch on quick changes from 4th to 5th If on the other hand you are building another 500kw time attack car, you will need something a bit more expensive.....

Hope you are sure it's the bearing! I'm not certain for 33 gtst, but for 32 gtr they are available from Nissan only ~350 trade price. So 300 to R & R is reasonable considering the work involved.

front or rear? the front is totally different between 4wd (double wishbone) and 2wd (struts, I think similar to silvia or something). the rear is more similar but there may still be differences in the lower shock mounting point, the basic setup will be the same. might also be hicas/non hicas differences

Isn't the problem simply that 33 vspec had an active diff, and all the other diffs are normal? Surely the issue relates to whatever wiring differences there are in making the diff "active". Or is the only difference at the diff the hydraulic lines?

+1 There are literally 30 things it could be....expensive to guess and change them one by one until you find it.