Duncan

I bought another cool tool the other day, and this one was damn cheap as well, $20 on ebay nissan specific clutch aligning tool there are a bunch of generic (and expensive kits), but this is a perfect fit.

There is no sign of damage on that thread. So either a totally wrong size thread was supplied, and not noted by the installed, or it was not installed properly (ie adjusted out way too far). Either way it is not a problem with the arm itself.

lol so the good news is; the fax hasn't actually been disconnected yet, although it should have been. the bad news is you faxed the form wrong side up so I got 2 blank pages and no idea who to chase!

There is a national (and NSW state) production car series if that's what you are looking for! Get along to a track to support it

Thanks for the good write up. With removing the harmonic balancer, while the 3 jaw pullers work sometimes, these balancers can be really hard to remove. There is another type of puller like this that is better suited. Buy 2 strong (grade 12) M6 bolts of the right length to pull it with. Also, if you are going to do all that work, you may as well change the timing belt and the idler and tensioner pullies while you are in there; that is normally a 100,000klm job.

I had heard that Rick was a moaner. From Tod. I'm sure they can be within 1% of peak power but with substantially different power/torque curves - which makes a big difference.....you would know how painfully different a bush bearing n1 turbo (32/33) is to a ball bearing n1 turbo (34) in race use It is fair to assume both the nissan and merc have less low down torque and could make more peak power (but are not allowed to)

I've also posted the procedure before and am too lazy to find it again....but basically put the car in the air, out of gear, turn engine on, open the bleeder at the rear of the gearbox until the fluid runs without bubbles. Pretty easy. If you still get a 4wd light there is another bleeder above the rear driveshaft that you might also have to bleed.

It will be a rule for safety rather than an engineering oversight. If the fuel goes in slow you effectivey get a minimum time for pit stops, this means team have time to put the wheels on properly without rushing. I think it was a great weekend for the new chasis, thumbs up to Skaife and the team for persevering with such a radical change; I certainly was not a believer but ended up watching all of both races, even cheering for that blouse Rick. Both new cars did well, they will be 5x better next race and 10x better by the end of the year. Congrats in particular to everyone at Erebus for such a good showing with so little time. On the heat, I am totally amazed they hadn't done long runs in hot weather. If you are spending millions a year, that test would be critical. I'm sure it will be sorted for next race though.

is that the slowest forum response, ever? BTW, Hi Wayne!

Looking after babies? Or washing up?

you know, at first glance I didn't notice the wider front guard beyond the flare. I love the pics from your old car collection. Josh, we really need to know where it is rubbing, although from the offset it seems likely it is rubbing on the guard. That can only be fixed by rolling or flaring the guard, or changing to differet offset wheels.

yeah it's a strange world when this guy is the *less* gay brother

I feel dirty

GO RICK!!!!

any truth to the rumour that one of the nissans has spun a bearing already?

Paid for Kel and I, who wants the form? PM to someone?

I want to know how Casey Stoner came 14th in the Konicas when (according to the coverage) he was the only car on the grid?

In, thanks Bobby and Adam for putting this together. I can bring along a couple of engines that need rebuilds if that will help

that's the reason, the 235 are much more common. Goes to show the price of a tyre has nothing to do with the cost of a tyre.

$99 for 1cm of tyre? I'd take the 235 thanks

haha good work. I also have a strict nissan only garage policy

Sif an M35 could catch a C34

Personally I wouldn't bother upgrading the rears, but if you are dead keen the 33/34 brembo rears have been working fine on my race car for years. Just use more or less aggressive pads if they lock up before the fronts To really bother upgrading the rear you need to have either removed a lot of weight from the front, or shifted a lot of weight rearwards. Standard weight distribution is about 2/3 front and 1/3 rear when static, and it is even more due to weight shift when you hit the brakes. As a result the rears do 9/10ths of stuff all.

don't pri-ii have engines still? . Anyway...I'll just find a spot and mount the extinguisher, I think it will be easier.

the mighty leaf. since the only fire risk is the battery, which can't be put out with a foam extinguisher......but I suspect AASA don't have clear regs on electric cars yet?