Duncan

muahahaha excellent, early break out of fighting talk!

That's why I've always loved a "lifetime" guarantee. It is kind of like no guarantee at all if the manufacturer is willing to fix it until the time it is broken?

lol you get used to that. I drove to Canberra for a meeting yesterday morning....2 tanks required. The way that engine pulls is spectacular....but so is it's fuel use

oh you've got to be kidding me. next time I drop by canberra for the morning I'll grab them too.

good news I was going to say...be careful with 1/2" extensions/breaker bars etc. Often the plugs are a little round already and you can really f**k it. You can get 13mm square fittings for this exact job. They are a lot tighter fit and won't round it off. The one I have is 13mm square at one and and 19mm hex at the other so you can put a big spanner or bar over it to get the leverage you need. But I'll be f**ked if I understand why they are alawys so damn tight! Even when I put them back in a little loose, it takes f**king superman to take them off again! damn straight, good tips.

saw this today at Pro-Fab....it looks excellent. and very serious.

don't you have a swift in the shop, it fits that bill perfectly.

hi mate, definately start with a wheel alignment first, get a print out of before and after and post it up assuming nothing is loose or bent, some sort of alignment issue like toe out on the rear is most likely

hmm funny you should say that, according to her she is a f**king angel when she is down there?

Yep Kel is off in the morning to do it mx5 style again. And you can redrill those holes for sure....the knurls are only there to stop it turning when the wheelnut is going on, the thread does all the clamping work.

Please keep on topic as per the original poster's point or I will have no alternative but to issue bannings, or even whippings, to bad people.

the sound is out of sync with the video because you were going faster than the speed of sound (but not light). Great to see Scott still out there taking pics too, he has been spectating, photographing and occasionally trying club motorsport for years Excellent driving there, nice and smooth and it is damn quick around the top of the track in particular. It also looks like you have a favourite passing spot As for mods....all I can suggest is do as little as possible! You are getting more race time than everyone else on SAU put together! Sure you can make it go faster, but can you afford to spend your way to the front? And even if you did, do you think it is more fun chasing/dicing with someone, or running away at the front....I know which one I'd pick. You are obviously enjoying your racing, have been making a lot of events (therefore staying within or close to your budget) and having fun. Why change that?

Are you crazy? RB30 stagea is the only way to go

Update, I was totally incorrect. There is a WA for sale section that does require approval. I'll check out the story.

That's f**king hilarious....good work It looks like a pretty average track for those sorts of speed too...drop over the ditch sometime and give it a run here

That's a pretty crap set of problems. Any idea what happened to the caliper? Just loose bolts I guess?

Always good to hear a happy workshop story....good on them

Hi mate, there is no approval in the for sale section, and this is the only thread I can find started by you this year. Can you post up more details or screen captures of the problem?

Excellent result....obviously you avoided the shithouse Sydney weather. Good to see Stu giving the taxi a run too I saw his run up on youtube

That is the carbon cannister that helps reduce unburned fuel emissions

thanks, mate, I ended up grabbing a bosch one (similar price to the makita but included laser which was helpful). I ended up cutting up the frames over the weekend, the saw was perfect. I did grab an aluminiun blade because there was so much to cut and the frames are so damn thin. Also made heaps of use of the saw frame to cut lengths to the same size without having to measure each time....I can see why people make up jigs when they have to cut multiple pieces. Was given a tip about using saw wax as well which I had never come across. To soon to say if it was any use in this case, but it was cheap insurance

Where are you located? You have not mentioned in your profile?

And that is by far the best choice if you are sure you are going to be there. We used to buy a few sets from jp and get them shipped over in a container for about 1/2 local price. Not to mention local stock is also often very old by the time you get it Anyone from yoko reading this just choked on their cornflakes, and will be thinking about how to mark locally delivered tyres.

That can be welded back up by a decent workshop. Or if you are very worried a subframe is easy enough to swap over. Must have been a good hit, they don't just fall off.

-4 F sounds cold. There is a fuse, it is under a cover on the driver's side lower dash. This is the layout: So check the 3rd fuse and make sure it has not blown. A bit of a long shot but at least it is easy to check. Do you have a multimeter? If so, use that the check the fuse, and if not....take another car to the shop and buy one If the fuse is OK the best thing is to get straight into the fuel pump wiring. Open the boot remove the boot floor (a couple of 10mm nuts from memory) and you will see the fuel tank cover. Remove that too, and unplug the plug with 2 wires (fuel pump wiring, the other plug is the fuel level sender and warning light). Turn the ignition on and immediately (ie within 2-4seconds) check for 12v between the 2 terminals of the plug. If there is power there the fuel pump is not working (no fuel? pump dead? fuel line froze, I think the last one is a joke?). If there is no power there you have an issue in the ECU, relay, wiring or power supply. But before all that, do you have an immobiliser that may have failed? or is it out of fuel? why do you think there is no fuel pressure, do you have a gauge?