Duncan

BTW also worth noting, if it is a small leak leading to loss of fluid, the handbrake warning light will come on because there is a sensor in the master cylinder resovoir

FIt the new clutch for sure. No point getting on the dyno and the old ones slips during power run. Also expensive to have everything apart twice. The bedding process is most important to stop it slipping instead of engaging when you let the clutch in or out. Once it is fully engaged it is much less likely to start slipping, dis-engaging again. They won't be dropping the clutch on the dyno BTW make sure the flywheel is machined unless it is new. Uneven surface from the old clutch, especially if was badly worn, on the old flywheel is the biggest risk. I have taken new clutches straight to the race track for full power launches. Only had one of them fail due to not being bedded in properly (had a small contact patch, got to hot and clutch welded to flywheel).

Damn straight I have, in fact it's borken atm.....but mine has made it out of the workshop, regularly

I'm willing to bet that your old dash had the globe taken out. The new dash has a globe. The warning light should always have been on, you just never knew....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/394719-nissan-batmobile-gtr/page__pid__6275155#entry6275155

why *do* engineers use autocad? mspaint can do everything! More problems on the internet have been solved by mspaint than any other software

Unhelpful and personal comments removed. The summary is: Autos have a reverse beep, manuals (including rs260) do not.

Well...I did a banjo style conversion about 5 years ago and my fiery death has not yet ocurred. I would however attach the brakeline to the hub to limit that movement, I used the official nissan engineer's brake line holder, AKA cable tie.

Unfortuantely I'd have the box out and reco-ed. You can add to the damage if there are broken bits already floating around....

that chassis has actually been around for a while, it was a proposed new control chassis for Indy cars as well. I am pretty sure that nissan has had little to no input into building it, other than the motor in this case. In any case, it's good to see Nissan back in the LeMans series, it's a super competitive area.

Not to mention that there aren't actually many time attack cars that could move out of the workshop they are sitting in under their own power Anyway......who from SAU is doing the sprint series this year? There has been a few people in previous years but it looks like it is falling off pretty badly now? Are you and Duncan running Marek?

Yep the top is not fixed to the bottom, just the shock shaft and nut. It will turn, depending on how much load is on the spring it can be easy or hard to turn

yep, the jaycar kit, works perfectly. Just tapped the speedo wire at the dash and hid the box up behind the hazard light switch. It's been in there a while bu I had to adjust it because I've changed rim/tyre size recently. Nismo dash is the main reason I had to fix the speedo. A big digital speedo is just annoying when it's wrong!

c'mon hugh, you've been around long enough to remember drum brakes Paul's got it spot on, it is easily accessible once the wheels are off.

Slim was a great man....his actions have given me lots of free beer over the years.

finally did some work on the poor neglected stag today. Switch for the boost controller New aerials for the tv (works good) Speedo corrector for the nifty nismo dash Didn't work out why the reverse lights aren't working....next time.

It's funny because it's true

yeah I'm sure it is possible to get similar or even better results out of an rb25 neo head, but I mean for 95% of people. rb26 bolt ons are easy and cheap and plentiful for anywhere from 250-400kw. getting the same power out of an rb25 will cost more, but is certainly not impossible. If we're talking about building a full house motor, go for it, the sky's the limit! But I guess that's not really OP's question.

Personally I wouldn't consider the bearings only option in an rb. Those little bearnig flecks are going everywhere your oil does, including turbo cores, oil pipes, tiny head oil feed, even smaller cam oil feeds etc etc. I'd have it all disassembled and thoroughly clean. I'd do it to my ute's motor, but not my GTR's one

Jarrad, just flush your fluid out and put rbf600 or similar top quality fluid in. the a1rm pads are fine for your use and power. what you really need is better tyres and to work on technique - brakes make you go slower, not faster. Grab me at the next trackday and we can have a look at how you are attacking the corners. the swaybars will help heaps too, very good choice to upgrade those. also, get a wheel alignment if you haven't had one done for a while. Nothing track specific, just make sure everything is straight and consistent. Lots of things you could do if you wanted to take it all further, but if the car may be leaving just do the little bits and enjoy it

lol that would have been fun. did you ask them to stay off the curbs next time?

both people I know that tried this had challenges, try and contact Stu at Bezerkly or Brad at Pro-fabrications

the rb26 will have a lot more potential for power in the future if you think that might be a factor. But either will be good fun....I went the rb30+manual route on mine and it is brilliant

I don't know why he's not getting back to you, but I'm sure he hasn't disappeared with your money. Hang tight.

lol I probably have spent enough on the car over the years (engines at least) to be there. It is a good chance to have a beer or 10 with people from all over the place.