Duncan

Very common for race cars to lift the inside wheel in some or all corners, it comes down to how hard your springs and sway bars are. The common, internet friendly and totally wrong approach to track suspension is to put hard shocks, springs and sway bars on for track use. In the real world, you run the softest springs you can while keeping all 4 wheels on the ground for maximum traction (there is a lot to that too, keep in mind the inside rear wheel will never have much grip as there is little weight on it). Soft springs keep the wheels on the track over bumps/ripple strips/small cars thereby maintaining traction. Add sway bars of the correct stiffness to adjust the understeer at either front or rear to your taste. BTW a stiff chasis makes a huge difference to whether a wheel will lift or not. It is very easy to lift a corner once a proper roll cage is installed. Throw all of these comments out the window if the left rear shock is siezed lol. drop by your local pedders and hand over $14 of your hard earned to get the shocks checked.

I tow a fair bit with my stagea and other than terrible fuel economy it is excellent. All I had to change to make it tow well was: Much harder and higher rear shocks Big brakes Big wheels to clear the big brakes Rb30 with 25 head High mount turbo Front mount intercooler and forward facing plenum PowerFC GTR injector conversion 2t tow bar from Max in canberra (mine fit the chassis but required heaps of work trimming the dayz kit) Also did a manual conversion but I don't think that helped it's towing ability, it is a bit of a pain to pull away from standing starts. So....for irregular towing I would say go for it....but for regular towing of big loads a lot of work and money is required to work well. Having said all that, I am very happy with how the car ended up. It is a daily car with occasional (1-2/month) towing of large loads (up to 2.5 tonnes) over long distances. When towing it is dead steady, brakes are great and plenty of power whenever it is needed. The only issue is the fuel economy is terrible when towing.

To get back to the original question - generally a car is log booked with CAMS/AASA/Irace mainly because those organisations require it to enter many events. Pretty much any event will require a log book if your car is not registered; the more serious events will require a log book whether it is registered or not. For a CAMS logbook you really only have to comply with schedule A, B and J. You will also need to chose a category for the log book, as per the discussion above, my experience is they don't really check eligibility at this check (or at most events either, but don't get me started on that...). But if there was something obviously wrong for a requested category I think they would issue the log book under another more appropriate one.

Sure Steve-o...and in the meantime you should remove the off topic posts (ie not SAU club events) from your post. Thanks for following forum rules.

good man Brad, thanks for the offer. Saturday would be perfect are you bringing something down to MRA?

he bloody better be at round 1 MRA, otherwise I'll be pissed at working my arse off at this time of year. today it got the guards rolled, oil cooler half done and new super duper custom clutch ready to go in.

I just spotted a silver 25X on the main motorway in Auckland

same, I screwed the nut back on and bashed them out. even safer than using the same method on a wheel stud because there is no bearing getting f**ked up at the same time. What do you think about the ikeya adjusters? I wasn't convinced because they only move the lower arm point, not the upper arm point as well.

umm Brad that is already sold, you can't sell it again.

yes you will be able to hear the relay click, it is over on the passenger A pillar near the door sill. while it's not normal, it is possible that the alarm kills power to the computer. But even so the alarm would not immobilise immediately that you turn off the car, so it won't be that. I just checked on the stagea, the PFC hand controller turns off when the eccs relay does, about 1 sec after turning off the ignition. BTW the eccs relay un-earths the computer, it doesn't cut the power.

haha good research....only a little hurt that you left my national championship off And it makes the point that nothing nissan is doing much at all at the serious level of motorsport. The 2 winners you listed were 1x rwd and 1x 4wd....and both in the strange world of IPRA racing. The fact remains, a 33 gtst is an excellent choice for a track car - cheap to buy, easy to find bits, easy to power up, can run large tyres for it's size, double wishbone all round unlike the S chassis.

well for that matter, show me the list of nissans (2wd or 4wd) that have won a national or state champs in the last 5 years?

I would have to check when the screen turns off, but the ECU must turn itself off using the ECCS relay otherwise it won't save settings first. In the race car, if I turn off the car using the kill switch instead of the key it never saves data for that reason. But if you are using the standard wiring that should not be the issue

Yes, unfortunately a perfectly healthy wet style battery can die from a single flattening (is that even a word?). I'd start by swapping in a different battery.

to be honest I don't mind that rule so much, although it may be a PITA to meet. Because I like being able to walk.

Exactly right, you can drive a roadworthy, unregistered car to an inspection station for a pink slip check. A booking is a good idea. Roy, is the car unregistered in the current state? Are you looking to register it now? Is it complied? Steve-o, you can't use a trade plate to get a car registered. They are only for the use of a licensed motor dealer, which I don't think you or Roy are.

Dammit. Alan, I never would have fitted an undercar surge tank to the rally car unless I was 100% happy about how far it sits above the chassis rail. Anything that hits the tank is going to bash a lot of other bits firs

OK they all sound good....to be honest I thought a backwards doof would sound like food Star33...I did not replace the a piller speakers, I was only replacing the door ones because they had phyiscally died...was not really after the ful sik-est sounding car around.

that bit's cool, the + and - are clear on the speaker. I just don't know about the car's loom. Should I just check continuity to earth from each wire?

Thanks Adam. All 4 speakers *sounded* OK. What do you mean exactly by checking the polarity. I assume neither the negative will have 100% continuity to earth/chassis, nor would the power have 100% 12-14v when measured to chassis/earth?

you said nipple! we need pics

Thanks for all the advice guys. I hit repco's 30% off speaker sale and bought 6"x 2way pioneer for the rear, and 6"x 3way pioneer for the front. About $150. The 6" rear fit straight in with the 4 screws on the speaker into the factory plastic mounty thing. Just needed to join the 2 wires up to thee factory plug. The front was a pita. The factory speaker is built into the plastic framey thing which meant either bolt the new speaker straight to the door, or cut up/modify/re-use the factory mount. I did the latter because I figure nissan knew more than me about speaker mounting and design. Took some stuffing around and use of self tappers to mount it....at least no-one will ever see that butchery. And the wiring was also a pain because I wanted to retain the factory wiring plug which was built into the mounting frame - more stuffing around with the soldering iron. Does polarity matter in speakers? I wasn't aware it did, but the kit mentioned + and -....so I connected the blackest wire in each pair to the speaker (-). All works fine. As for sound quality....I can conclusively confirm they sound better than 4x 20yo factory speakers (including one rooted one).

Unless your cooling is already a problem in street use, I can't see this causing a problem - there is still a big fan and heaps of places for air to come and go. Don't forget most cars have large undertrays these days, 32 gtr certainly had one, i am not sure about 32 gtst.

how did you come to the conclusion that the xfer case is stuffed? what are the symptoms.

which category does the car race in, or is this for road use only. In either case, assuming it doesn't seal the whole engine bay, I can't see it being an issue. I guess it would be too thin for rally use at 3mm.