Duncan

bloody hell, just had to pay rego on the race car.....green slip has gone up to $15 per year

its almost impossible to get the sump off in the car....for a start there are 4 bolts behind the flywheel. anyway like dave said...take it all out together...then pull it apart on the stand

I think those kits are an excellent option. the standard calipers are very capable and the brembos are certainly not worth the 1500 people ask for them!

excellent work. are they custom?

well done jfk....that car really does move. if he now holds the tin top record that means he beat stu inwood's time from the national hillclimb champs last year.....which would be payback for stu beating him at the national supersprint! last I saw the car it was running re55s, so I doubt it is on slicks now. chris....image a stock looking midnight purple r33 and you have it. externally it is a real sleeper, under the skin it is farking quick!

Hey Matt, cams approve a roll cage by log booking your car. when you log book the car you are assigned a class. assuming the ceffie is rwd you have 2 choices - production sports cars or sports sedans. read both sets of regs and decide which one works best for you - but I think you will probably need to go sports sedan because if you want to race it you would need to choose a category that is active over there. Once your car meets these regs you get the rollcage paperwork and the log book application, get the cage builder to sign the paperwork, and send it all to CAMS. They then send you back a log book and you need to organise for "pre-race scruitiny" where someone comes out and makes sure the car complies with the regs. Then you are right to go.

its really unlikely the rack itself is stuffed, but there are both inner and outer tie rods that do wear. I would strongly suggest changing the inner tie rods and see if that fixes it all up - these steering racks have this wierd nylon bush in them that wears over time.

I guess it depends which bar and which diameter you are getting - but I would expect all 3 settings to be harder than stock, significantly so. Everything works a lot better with a much stiffer bar

only 1 person in this thread who said don't get a cheap turbo has used one. everyone else is trying to feel better about spending more than they had to or is passing on heresay. I'm running a chinese one on an rb30 (only months so far, not years). I had it balanced when I got it, balance was not great as delivered. And I can replace it 3 times before I get close to the price of a mexican garrett. The only problem I had (and its a big one) is that the internal wastegate with mine is too small and unuseable...had to buy an external gate.

did you look into putting where the battery/fuse box was like we did? the bend from the frontmost exit from the cooler to the plenum is not too bad. then the rear exit from the cooler goes up and over the motor to the turbo(s). ryan...I can imagine freezing problems if you are running dry ice thru it for drag purposes....but I assume andrew will be running regular coolant through a second radiator and electric water pump like we will

sso....rallly tas.... who is competing? looks like the good old days with Jimmy well out in front. apparently all of the gtrs are having trouble in one way or another. motors blow, little offs etc.

the other option is race only use (other than personal import). but the regular import rules require a standard car, and in theory the modified parts have to be destroyed after being removed. you can thank toyota for the current import rules - they didn't want to compete with their own landcruisers cheaper from jp

yeah I haven't seen either g4 or d2 brands for a while....ksport is around the place instead. No idea why they bother rebranding them when they are all exactly the same except colour!

hahah another flux capacitor! don't follow my lead, who knows if the damn thing will do the job!?! BTW I can't get seats...they are out of stock indefinately. Just Jap are next cheapest place I know.

looks like a good buy for anyone doing hillclimbs/superlap etc. where did you get silverstone softs, and have you run on them? Are they wet only or OK for supersprint style use

I got one on my stagea recently (lots of other stuff at the same time). It is pretty good for the price but there are some things to watch out for like making sure the manifold surface is dead flat before you put it on. and some custom stuff needed like throttle body mounting and cable, aac mounting etc etc pretty sure just jap sell them

sounds bad to me....the first 1000klm of any motor are the most likely time for it to fail. i'd suggest getting a good mechanical oil pressure gauge on there to check what is happening, but don't drive it anywhere or run it. most likely a bearing clearance problem, assembly mistake, not cleaned properly or some oil pump failure. I hope that you had a single mechanic responsible for the whole build, because getting warranty on engine builds can be tricky

good work, I'd love to know where you found the original stuff....I'll be trying to do similar in a year or 2. re the strut brace, that is not the stock (factory option) one. It was red steel. like this: (I've been waiting years to post that one) re the exhaust, standard was actually 70mm (2.75"). No idea where you will find one in good condition, although I am pretty sure I have one in bad condition....not handy for you though

sorry, yes it was straight bolt on (32 gtr kit on a c34 stagea). for m35 I would suggest the 350z kit because the offset will be better for m series (but I guess either will work)

I've got 330mm under 17s. very tight fit but it depends on the wheel design as to how close it will be. once you add up brand new pads, rotors, calipers, brake lines, the chinese kits are outstanding value. and they don't just look serious, they are...I ran 330mm g4s at targa tasmania on my gtr without any problems.

I think the brembos are terrible for the price. personally I run the g4/d2/ksport etc 330m rotors and they are absolutely unbeatable for the price....I have them on the race car, the stagea and the 350z....

not just what, but where? Is there any chance of an air leak near the wideband sensor? can you see the output of the normal sensor, how many volts is it showing?

well....that is a different story. If you really want to learn to drive (or at least get 100% from the car's capability) sell the liner and buy an under 2l IPRA car. No better way to learn the value of accurate car placement and mid corner speed. The sort of car that when you mash the throttle nothing happens seriously though....learning to use all of the car's ability is about seat time (mostly) and instruction (often). spending money on the motor or time in the garage will give you neither unfortunately...shame because that's all I ever do too.....

Harry that video is a spectacular find! I love the guy sitting 1m from the exit at suttons corner...and the guys standing on the infield next to the straight. Things sure have changed. Would love to see the original course layout if anyone know is...clearly the original layout was not what we called the "GP" circuit. I can't work it out, looks like there was a bridge over a creek before the last turn (the "lake" remainined in the middle but everything else was removed) but does that mean the flip flop was different?

it's a joke?