Duncan

No difference in use with "street" pads (ie pads that work from cold). It can be a problem with things like rally use where you might start sub zero but do a 30 min stage flat out so you need to deal with a very wide range of brake temps. Really the only issue with big brakes on the street is they are expensive to buy, might need larger wheels (also expensive) and discs and pads will be more expensive at replacement time too.

Assuming you are using a hoist, that would probably be the quickest way to do the job.

I understand that by looks you just mean larger and new looking, so just grab whatever you can find cheapest in 350mm, any half credible brand will be adequate stopping wise. If you go the evo brembos you probably have to consider the cost of having them stripped, powder coated, rebuilt, re-stickered. Personally I'd stay away from any home made kits as you won't know the quality of the caliper adapters which could be dangerous

Well, full marks to GTSBoy in internet guess troubleshooting then!

No idea if lever is better or worse, I've only every used the push down screw cap ones. I run 1.3 bar cap on the race car and have got >130o coolant without blowing anything, not really recommended as best practice. Of course if you go higher pressure cap it is worth changing all water hoses to silicone and good hose clamps instead of the factory clips

hmmm totally different to gtr, and it looks like there has been a distinct shortage of love there at some stage. From GTSBoy's wiring diagram post Assuming GTST is the same as GTS4, 6 is the earth, 4 and 5 are the power and earth for the fuel pump and either 3 or 2 is the sender signal (the other is the low fuel warning light, from the symbol I assume 3 is the level sender)

Sorry I should add, all of the tracks are marked on the back of the dash too if you want to double check

Hmm I would have though some of the dash stuff was worth having working in a mega dollar classic like an r32 Anyway, judging by this pic all the wires are black, but at least you can find where the fuel sender is, looks like pin 6 to me

you really should do a compression test, and specifically a leak down compression test

BTW the key hole you didn't ask about below it is probably the related override switch, unless you know that is something different

That is an immobiliser, probably fitted when it was imported. There was a time when compliance required an immobiliser on import, and that style was cheap. There is a small device that goes on the key fob, you push it onto those contacts and then you can start the car for the next x seconds. If you don't know about it, it must have been bypassed since, so you can replace it with a blanking panel if you want

They were called "eyelids", super cool in mid 2000s, not sure how available they are these days.

bottom line is that warranty work is least profitable for the dealership (generally) because the manufacturer decides the price they get paid for a particular job and dealership is obliged to do it. service in warranty and service out of warranty is where they make their money

I've had a couple of new cars over the years (one was even a Saab!) Couple of things I do: 100% always always buy factory genuine floor mats. They are a horrible rip off, but so much better than how the carpet will look after 3,5 etc years without them Definitely treat it hard for first thousand klm. Lots of heavy load and acceleration, little to no idle, sitting in traffic etcetc that is terrible for run in. We were nice to our 350z and it always burned oil. Nissan said 1l/5000klm oil burned is within spec, their engineers must be so proud About 6 months out from the enf of warranty, take a list with every little annoyance back to get fixed under warranty. Don't take any shit, you pay a fortune for the car so get them to fix what they didn't get right. Give it a nice scratch somewhere so you aren't worried about the first scratch for the next few months

to me colour is a spectrum, you can be any colour you want to be

great to hear....there has sure been a pattern with wrong colour coil packs causing issues over the years

Because someone's been in there before you. They are a pain to pull apart from factory, no chance factory goop stopped gooping suddenly

There are square drive sockets available in 13mm instead of regular 1/2" extensions or breaker bars, if you hammer one of those in then get something long onto it you should get there (especially after plenty of heat on the area)

BTW, what you have is different to every Greddy kit I've seen before, they normally have the thermostat built into the relocated mount, are you sure its genuine

You need to make sure the oil is filtered, whether or not the thermostat is opened. Can't really tell how it works from those pics and I assume there were no instructions provided.... Did the kit come with lines, or are you making them. The old school location of upside down on the strut tower is a crap idea. Much better to mount the filter upside down on the chassis rail in front of the front diff

The tapered pipe standards are a bit of a mess since they almost kinda fit each other. I thought Japanese fittings were BSPT, but my good friend ChatGPT agrees with you that they are PT (they are probably interchangeable in practice). It is possible that the previous setup was mismatched (PT in NPT), it is not guaranteed they will leak if installed tight enough and with sealant but it is a terrible idea. And yes, you can get BSPT / NPT adapters, brazillions of options but you need to consider your available space where it is going

Naked laps are going to be cold this time of year!

Custom is probably quickest and cheapest for pretty much any JDM unless you stumble across some ebay junk

Odd. The standard one is accepted in Australian racing. You probably just need flat bar between the floor rather than a "hoop" as the tailshaft is above floor level in the tunnel

There is a driveshaft loop from factory in the middle of the shaft, it also holds the centre bearing to the body.