Duncan

wheel bearing is normally a whoomp whoomp noise like a falcon taxi. If it is bad enough to be a grinding noise you might be able to confirm by jacking wheel off ground and trying to wobble it side to side. also, generally the outside bearing is noisy in turns so that might help narrow down the side

Actually your preferred supplier even has one ready to go https://www.edwardlees.com.au/stocklist/nissan-make/fuga-model/pagenum-1/ presumably it has negative klm.

Sounds like you want a Fuga Hybrid. Ticks all those boxes and has no vag

I'd be pissed if I hadn't heard back in 6 months. I know shops get busy so they don't want to spend all day explaining why they have let you down over and over, but a response is not hard, even if it is just an email at the end of the day. Time to walk into the shop, or in you case get someone in country to do so. And speaking of which, can you walk into your local AMP dealer and order me a set of arms for Titan King Cab Power Steps? I've been waiting 6 months.

actually, sorry to bang on but something else I forgot to mention....better tyres mean you need way less brake as well, so it is win/win. you don't have to knock off an extra 10klm/h in every corner, every lap

Proper tyres last much better, it is chalk and cheese. We used 1x set of Z221 medium/hards for the Bathurst 6 hour race, flat out except for pit stops One the race car (which is pretty standard), I ran a set of Z221 softs (superlap spec) for a 20min session too, although it was winter not mid summer. Even for slightly serious track time it is way more fun than anything streety.

Of those, only good tyres are expensive, and if you are going to the track on street tyres (even good ones) you are missing most of the fun. My old 33 gtst street car did about a billion laps in 20min sessions with: - proper track tyres (these days I'd use hankook Z221) -bendix ultimate pads, standard disc, calipers -standard rad, no oil cooler etc With under 200rwkw it was good for 1.09s at Wakefield, all day every day I think what many posters above did is double or triple the factory power (or chuck a ls in), then put on road tyres and expect track happiness. Leave it turned down and enjoy the track instead!

With reasonable brakes, tyres and cooling, you should be able to go 100% for a 20minute session (well, 1 warm up lap first) Just watch out for any of them having an issue: -Coolant temp gauge and oil temp/oil pressure -Tyres loosing grip - increased understeer in long corners right hand (clockwise track) or left hand (anti clockwise track) -Brakes - oh shit moment when you press them, or sometimes there is a warning via smell or longer pedal first

welcome to SAU

Thanks sonicii for posting those additional docs. OP I think you should take those 3 pages and your car to an auto electrician

Sorry mate, I checked back through everything I can find but I don't have a part number, it was back in 2006.... You can see it is the same shape as your pic just gloss instead of matt finish so that one should fit too

Well, if hi and low both work in diagnostic mode, that sounds like a switch issue, but you said in first post that you had swapped the switch with a known good one, so maybe it is a swtich wiring issue. I would have expected a modern car used CAN rather than separate wires (also because the excerpt sonicii posted only talked about the control unit to PDM to wiper motor). If you can dig out the switch to PDM wiring we might be able to understand more

To be clear, the kit I linked is fronts only. Rears on a 33 gtst are fine up to about a billion kw, just do pads and discs

Well, price up discs + pads + calipers before you go down that path, it will really add up. $2,700 for lines, pads, discs, new calipers - https://justjap.com/collections/attkd/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r33-93-98?variant=42485721891015 Not exactly cheap, but good value, especially if you are trying to find 2nd hand r34 callipers

I think it depends on whether you are using pump or can e85, the stuff direct from the refinery is pretty strict e85 I understand while the pump stuff varies from season to season to give you a chance starting the car on a cold morning. I'd 100% put it in if I was even considering some ethanol.

It's probably worth watching some basic multimeter videos on youtube. 99% of the time you will use one of 2 settings: Continuity - when you touch one probe to one end of something and the other probe to the other end, it beeps if they are connected. This tells you if a wire is broken internally, if you have 2 ends of the same wire, if a switch is working etc DC voltage 0-20 - This measures the voltage between the probes, so you might use it to see if you have 12v somewhere by having the red probe on whatever you are testing and the black one on bare metal in the chassis (generally a bolt). Don't let the probes touch while doing this as you can cause a short circuit. With the wiring diagram it might help to print it and draw on it. The relays show a coil and a switch. When you have 12v across the coil, the switch changes across. Because we can see 12v on one side of the coil from the battery, via the ignition switch, we know that the control unit triggers the coil by providing earth/negative. So....when the control unit earths the Front Wiper Relay, battery power is provided by 20A fuse #73, through the Front Wiper Relay to the input of the Front Wiper High Relay. If the control unit is sending the High signal to the Front Wiper High relay, that power flows through the relay to pin 31, the to the wiper. You know this is working because that is all you get. Alternatively, if the control unit is not sending the High signal, the Front Wiper High relay is meant to be set to the Low side and providing power to pin 21. Most likely this is not working in your setup (noting as GTSBoy said it could be a wiper motor issue as well, or the switching). The correct way to see if it is the unit or wiper is to see if you have 12v at pin 21 when the wipers are set at low, but the easy way to check that is by just swapping in a good relay as that is the most likely thing to fail (because relays have a mechanical part that moves thousands of times in it's life), but of course any other part of that whole sequence could have failed, including upstream to how the switch works....you just need to follow it through each step. Having said all that, since you said it doesn't work at all in Low or Intermittent, it may well be a motor issue (I though you said you get high no mater what you set it on). That pretty much narrows it down to the High Relay, the Relay's socket wiring or the wiper motor itself.

It does depend on outside temps, but no more than 5 minutes to be at operating temp....is your gauge working correctly?

These diagrams have got a *lot* better since the R32 days. From that pic it looks like the wipers will be hi only if the "front wiper high relay" is stuck closed. It looks like it physically lives inside the PDM (power distribution module) which is probably a fuse box under the bonnet. If you can find a relay marked that way unplug it and see if you lose hi and low wipers. If so, try and replace the relay with another working one that is physically the same (just don't use the front wiper relay, it is also required)

Agreed, pads and good quality fluid should be fine. If you are determined to put something bigger on, the ATTKD 330mm are excellent value

good call, but damn. I'm always on the lookout for the BOV return because it's the first thing that gets destroyed in any sort of rally incident

All right.....time to settle this thread.....no need for anyone to get personal

Well apparently, but it isn't obvious why. Benalla have sold the track to the guys who own the other track near Marulan (Pheasant's Nest). https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/8121724/steves-passion-project-injects-hope-for-wakefields-future/ It is not clear why a different owner will have a different outcome, maybe it is something about the Land and Environment order being against the old owner, not the new one

Great write up, thanks. Did you record what fittings are required for pressure and return at both pump and rack ends?

well, for that particular drive you could do sydney - bathurst via Bells Line then Bathurst-Canberra via one of 3 roads (via Taralga, Crookwell or Cowra but it is literally twice as long at 6hrs+ or shorter but not as interesting Sydney - Nowra then Nowra-Canberra via either Tarago (5hrs) or Bateman's Bay/Braidwood (6hrs)

absolutely no idea.....turn up the boost and find out Neo is apparently a good head I guess you will need cams at that level though, not sure if the head studs are required