Duncan

Well, price up discs + pads + calipers before you go down that path, it will really add up. $2,700 for lines, pads, discs, new calipers - https://justjap.com/collections/attkd/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r33-93-98?variant=42485721891015 Not exactly cheap, but good value, especially if you are trying to find 2nd hand r34 callipers

I think it depends on whether you are using pump or can e85, the stuff direct from the refinery is pretty strict e85 I understand while the pump stuff varies from season to season to give you a chance starting the car on a cold morning. I'd 100% put it in if I was even considering some ethanol.

It's probably worth watching some basic multimeter videos on youtube. 99% of the time you will use one of 2 settings: Continuity - when you touch one probe to one end of something and the other probe to the other end, it beeps if they are connected. This tells you if a wire is broken internally, if you have 2 ends of the same wire, if a switch is working etc DC voltage 0-20 - This measures the voltage between the probes, so you might use it to see if you have 12v somewhere by having the red probe on whatever you are testing and the black one on bare metal in the chassis (generally a bolt). Don't let the probes touch while doing this as you can cause a short circuit. With the wiring diagram it might help to print it and draw on it. The relays show a coil and a switch. When you have 12v across the coil, the switch changes across. Because we can see 12v on one side of the coil from the battery, via the ignition switch, we know that the control unit triggers the coil by providing earth/negative. So....when the control unit earths the Front Wiper Relay, battery power is provided by 20A fuse #73, through the Front Wiper Relay to the input of the Front Wiper High Relay. If the control unit is sending the High signal to the Front Wiper High relay, that power flows through the relay to pin 31, the to the wiper. You know this is working because that is all you get. Alternatively, if the control unit is not sending the High signal, the Front Wiper High relay is meant to be set to the Low side and providing power to pin 21. Most likely this is not working in your setup (noting as GTSBoy said it could be a wiper motor issue as well, or the switching). The correct way to see if it is the unit or wiper is to see if you have 12v at pin 21 when the wipers are set at low, but the easy way to check that is by just swapping in a good relay as that is the most likely thing to fail (because relays have a mechanical part that moves thousands of times in it's life), but of course any other part of that whole sequence could have failed, including upstream to how the switch works....you just need to follow it through each step. Having said all that, since you said it doesn't work at all in Low or Intermittent, it may well be a motor issue (I though you said you get high no mater what you set it on). That pretty much narrows it down to the High Relay, the Relay's socket wiring or the wiper motor itself.

It does depend on outside temps, but no more than 5 minutes to be at operating temp....is your gauge working correctly?

These diagrams have got a *lot* better since the R32 days. From that pic it looks like the wipers will be hi only if the "front wiper high relay" is stuck closed. It looks like it physically lives inside the PDM (power distribution module) which is probably a fuse box under the bonnet. If you can find a relay marked that way unplug it and see if you lose hi and low wipers. If so, try and replace the relay with another working one that is physically the same (just don't use the front wiper relay, it is also required)

Agreed, pads and good quality fluid should be fine. If you are determined to put something bigger on, the ATTKD 330mm are excellent value

good call, but damn. I'm always on the lookout for the BOV return because it's the first thing that gets destroyed in any sort of rally incident

All right.....time to settle this thread.....no need for anyone to get personal

Well apparently, but it isn't obvious why. Benalla have sold the track to the guys who own the other track near Marulan (Pheasant's Nest). https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/8121724/steves-passion-project-injects-hope-for-wakefields-future/ It is not clear why a different owner will have a different outcome, maybe it is something about the Land and Environment order being against the old owner, not the new one

Great write up, thanks. Did you record what fittings are required for pressure and return at both pump and rack ends?

well, for that particular drive you could do sydney - bathurst via Bells Line then Bathurst-Canberra via one of 3 roads (via Taralga, Crookwell or Cowra but it is literally twice as long at 6hrs+ or shorter but not as interesting Sydney - Nowra then Nowra-Canberra via either Tarago (5hrs) or Bateman's Bay/Braidwood (6hrs)

absolutely no idea.....turn up the boost and find out Neo is apparently a good head I guess you will need cams at that level though, not sure if the head studs are required

Yes, and Yes. The boost switch would need to be wired into a spare input in the link

you chuck the boost controller unit and keep the solenoid and its plumbing. Attach the solenoid to the wiring in from the stock location (extend the wires if necessary).

Mark, you need this: https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/frankentitan-busts-out-124370/ Or even better, I saw Louie's original stretched navara for sale a few years back, can't find link any more but at least we know it still exists

good choice to throw the overtorqued fasteners....but I'd still buy another new set if you have time, it would be a shame to do all this then have the old one break and lunch your engine

I know some people have gone the external pump with a wet sumo route, but I use nitto internal pump (which seems to be very similar to the Tomei pump). A external pump requires a crank mandrel to drive it, mounting and an extra belt to throw or misalign, I don't see that is safer with a wet sump

And, since there are 2, that makes me wonder if you have the right timing belt kit. Are you converting to twin cam head, and if so are you adding a second idler?

Cam front seals.

Yeah just double checked a crank I have, that is the factory crank big end and main gradings. Details of the factory grades are on EN101 of the r32 manual. They are of no relevance 30 years later of course

Highly unlikely to be a hydraulic issue, even before bleeding it, your first vid clearly shows the slave cylinder working correctly. Also, the fact that you can get 5 forward gears at idle but not reverse is consistent with the clutch not disengaging From there it gets trickier, my guess is you have some problem with the throw out bearing or carrier's height. From the side by side pic the bearings seem to have a very different height (and so does the pivot ball but I'm not sure what effect that will have). I've never had to sort this myself, maybe someone else here can suggest how to check the engagement/bearing height is correct

I take it that it just crunches if you try and put it in gear with foot on clutch? Have you taken it for a drive to see if it changes without the clutch (with correct revs)? Well, you can start by confirming the slave cylinder is moving the fork properly, it should move a cm or 2 when you put foot on the clutch. From there you kind of need to know what's happening in the bellhousing. Is the fork clipped into the thrust bearing OK (assuming this is a push clutch) and is it also clipped onto the pivot ball OK? If all that is right, it might be the wrong height carrier/thrust bearing.

yeah you'll just have to check it. unknown shop could have done anything

Agreed, but to continue a bit off topic that is why you would generally use a mechanical not quaife in the rear. Even then, how you approach a corner and suspension setup makes a big difference, and any loss of traction in those circumstances like curb hopping is very temporary

The quaife/wheel lifting thing isn't an issue in a GTR, even with rally or circuit use. Any single wheel is not off the ground long enough for it to have any meaningful impact and ATTESSA always has at least 50% power at the rear anyway so you never get caught out by this. I think the whole "helical diffs have an issue with a wheel off the ground" comes from the 4wd/off road world where it is a big problem; in that case you can be totally stuck if the wheel off the ground on a given axle gets all the power. In that case you really need a switchable locker