Duncan

Well the immobiliser box is basically just a receiver for the key fob and a set of relays to immobilise circuits like ECU power, fuel pump, ignition (whatever the installer chooses really). generally the wires in and out are all coloured black to make it hard to bypass (but also hard to troubleshoot). you might be able to trace the wires to where the original wires were cut and redirected via the unit to temporarily bypass it. I'd be looking for the IGN signal to ECU as it seems the ECU is not turning on (pin 45).

don't know if you saw, but he bought a BMW, wouldn't be worth it to fix professionally. I reckon do the same as Marty did on Kel's march super turbo; just get a vaguely similar colour spray can and shoot in the general direction

funny that 9 years is "old" for a modern euro car, they were sure built to last for a planned period and then be replaced by a new one. I'd stay the hell away from anything outside warranty, it would be a quick way to burn money when your $40k second hand car needs to be thrown away.

You can still work out the original paint code from the physical stamp in the chassis on the firewall ER34-xxxxxx and the link posted above, assuming it was not repainted. If it was, this should be a pretty common requirement for you painter to work this out anyway

Nice, there's never a bad time to buy new tools. Have you go someone local to TIG the BOV back onto the new pipe?

Ignition switch is pretty easy to test too. unplug it and identify battery 12v terminal. Then test continuity to other pins when switch is OFF (none), ACC (ACC continuity), IGN (IGN and ACC), Start (IGN and Start). There are also a series of fuses and relays at driver's knee in that fuse box, since windows are not working that's where I'd try after checking the switch. I haven't often heard of the key switch failing

You need to check the ECCS relay near the ECU is turning on when ignition does. Pin 58 should always have battery voltage, but pins 49,59,109 are controlled by the ECCS relay which is what needs to be powered to turn the ECU on fully. Pin 18 (fuel pump relay signal) should earth for about 3 seconds when you turn the key to ignition to prime the fuel pump, and should always be earthed when the engine is running.

But, why were you checking in the first place? The IGN 12v at the boost control solenoid (terminal 1) also feeds a heap of other locations like the PCV, were you trying to sort a problem or just wondering? The wiring from the ECU to the boost control solenoid is fine for use with a aftermarket ECU and solenoid if required (change the plug at the solenoid end to suit)

They kind of show it in the diagram, terminal 1 is the vertical part of the T and 2 is the horizontal/perpendicular. But, why do you want to know? That Pin 1 should have power at all times when IGN is on, terminal 2 is pulsed by the ECU to control boost (ground signal)

C34 can work as a tow car, I used one for years although it did have an rb30det and heavier rear shocks and springs. M35 is not such a great choice, they have a habit of cracking the rear subframe with moderate to heavy loads on them. BTW how did you get a single axle trailer rated to tow 1200kg car + the trailer's own weight. That is very heavy for a single axle.

Probably best to change that ECU early unless you are certain the mines ECU is safe. I don't know how available high octane fuel is where you are, but the Mines ECU generally expect 100RON and won't have much margin for safety

Glad to hear it is sorted

before you pop another fuse or 10, check if there is continuity between earth and the fuse socket. If there is, you need to trace through that loom and find the massive short. You didn't just get 2 unlucky bad fuses all of a sudden. Edit, on second check it is clear that the positive wire's terminal is touching the alternator body in your pic. You don't really need an insulating washer, just screw the existing nut down to the body (tight but not overtight) then fit the ring terminal, then another nut to hold the terminal. That will keep the terminal well off the body. And yes, adding a boot is good practice anyway, it will stop big sparks if you are working in that area without the battery disconnected and accidentally touch the terminal and anything else with a tool

well, yes the alternator is the easiest place to get that wrong; check the wire with continuity to battery + is on the alternator + and the alternator earth is correctly to chassis earth

It is almost certainly better to get something aftermarket, unless you have a reasonably priced HKS dealer/tuner nearby. The HKS ECU was a worthwhile thing in the day (ie about 30 years ago). If you don't have that friendly HKS dealer nearby you are in for a world of pain with that setup

True, but OP doesn't have one of those heads sitting in the engine bay

sorry, misleading extra word "solenoid" in my sentence "It would be worth tracing the wastegate boost reference source too" Sounds like the wastegates are connected directly to the post throttle source, so it should just be running wastegate pressure on the turbos. On standard that is about 12psi, if these are -5 they are more likely to have come with 14psi wastegates or 7. Apparently the boost is pretty lazy when hooked up that way, normally the boost controller holds the pressure low until near the target boost level

either car will be worth more unmodified, with it's original engine. The skyline world has changed a lot in the last 5 years. I don't think an rb26 swap into a 33 gtst is a good choice....very expensive way to go compared to just building an rb25 that does whatever you want it to do. If you want to change something an rb30 is a better starting place, with rb25 head on it.

You might want to consider a aftermarket ECU depending on the price for genuine, there are plug in, plug in with adapter or wire in options. While you would need to tune it, you get a lot of future proofing that way.

It would be worth tracing the wastegate solenoid boost reference source too.

It looks like a factory plug, has to be for a spoiler mounted brake light. You can check with a multimeter or test light, you should get 12v between them with the brake pressed (and not otherwise)

Looks nicely sorted for grip

Yeah, if you could even find a second hand one....great to see businesses putting together aftermarket options where the factory stuff is not available or is showing it's age.

It is not that simple in cases other than oil pressure....I've got no issue letting the engine run hotter than a pre-defined threshold for a period of time, I've had water temp over 130o without permanent damage. Another specific case....I once spun a bearing at the last corner at Wakie on the last lap in the lead, and you bet I continued to the finish line.... I sure own a laptop, but I don't chuck it every car every time I go for a drive..... Yes, that is the realdash setup I posted above from my Stagea. That can show any parameter from the ECU CAN on the head unit via the Real Dash app.

Agreed....and change your fuel filter too incase something was dislodged while you were changing the pump