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hardsteppa

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Everything posted by hardsteppa

  1. even though the Nismo greabox mount says 'manual trans only' I can verify that it fits the auto, as I went thru the same thing as you about 6-8 months ago and just decided to order the Nismo mount anyway and see if it fitted rather than just use oem. I would suggest you look at the engine dampers like this http://justjap.com/jjr-engine-damper-kit-nissan-skyline-ecr33.html if you don't have one already, made a big difference in reducing the 'slop', and making the auto more responsive to throttle.
  2. Yes u should def do subframe bushes while subframe is out, If u end up removing it. Tierod ends on rear aren't a moving part and nothing on them to wear, so would assume they mean the hicas balljoints in the knuckle. The front 2diff bushes are cheap for urethane ones & are piece o piss to do, would do that first before ripping out subframe.
  3. Oh...yes pretty much what the other guy just said lol
  4. Currently running a td05-18g, previously a hypergear hiflow, on r33/rb25. Both good for comparable to stock response, for the OP i would prob go with Stao's offer to build u one for your needs. I like the td05 but not really worth the dicking around to get to fit.
  5. since when are BC BR's twintube...? but really, threads like this make me laugh, it descends almost every time into people so set on their own opinions and closeminded to even considering any other alternative, it's a waste of time even entering into discussion. For what it's worth, I wouldn't call BC's "good" suspension, but I would call them *great* value for money, and good for a lot of people/uses. No shortage of people worldwide happy with the product. Not the only option out there but not a bad one, Sydneykid Bilsteins with some decent quality springs being another good option. Being able to set your ride height to the exact mm you want at each corner is nice though, which the Bilstein option misses out on.
  6. At no stage did i say only do the rears, not the fronts. To say the rears won't benefit from an upgrade is untrue, and from my own personal experience, worth doing. I did the rears first cause that's the kit that arrived first, and always interested to feel the change it makes; it wasn't undriveable but certainly not how i'd want to leave it....with bigger discs on the front too the brake bias feels fine to me and a massive upgrade over leaving stock at both ends.
  7. just to add to it, the subframe collars are cheap as sh*t and do a great job of tightening up the feel of the rear end. Solid bushes would be better if it's a track track but if you're not dropping the subframe anytime soon they'll do just fine.
  8. what a load of shit, yeah right no benefit. Clearly another thing you're spouting off as fact without having actually tried it to know. Krazykong you're welcome to give mine a try next time you're in the area, I still have stock discs here so can refit and try the "before and after" so you can see for yourself.
  9. Thanks, he has a gtst. Stock r33 disc is already 296mm, so only 324mm would be upgrade, needing adaptors.
  10. 1- yes 2 - no but I believe no.2 does what it says on the tin.
  11. you can still use your front gtst calipers on gtr discs, you just need to use an adapter like the GK Tech ones. Fairly recent thread about doing this. Rear brake upgrade; Holford Motors had a bolt-on kit on sale a while back, very cheap upgrade. I've been happy with mine, great value for price.
  12. are you meaning the kingpin that has the hole for the split pin to go through? I don't know if you will find a torque setting, or maybe you will. But it varies, as you need it tight, and then turn more/less to line the slots in the nut with the hole in the kingpin.
  13. yes, wind the thread into the tie-rod ends (shorten them) to reduce toe-in.. Will check notes in garage downstairs but it's something like 1/2 turn of the rack end rod equals approx 2mm toe/
  14. I can get u one for that price but it has celica badges, body and engine. PM me if yr keen
  15. Yep gktech fan has nothing to do with clutch. I have one on an rb25, they hold temp just fine, and seem to be less drag at hi rpm due to tapered blades, but, pretty bloody noisy, no joke. Heaps cheaper than new oem fan tho so i can live with some noise..
  16. looks fine. unless it's in danger of slipping off/over the perch, which it doesn't look to be.
  17. this one, Masro/Spooky vs Smack1, PH Crew
  18. that would then become a ball joint splitter, so...yes. But good luck with that, takes alot of force and hard to keep it from just slipping out once it gets under pressure. They're about $25 from supercheap, i didn't want to buy one either but have ended up using it a few times now.
  19. 1/2 moon key missing/ broken...
  20. i'll just put it out there, most people would usually start with doing the exhaust...
  21. Brand/ details of shocks, and pics of install thanks, not alot to go on otherwise
  22. ^^cooling-pro being cheaper new than the Blitz, and for most purposes equally suitable.
  23. I concur with my learned colleagues above; regardless of an rb20 or rb25 being fitted to the R32, it would be more certain an R32 kit has been utilized in this instance. And not worth your buying. However, one guy I may or may not have heard of, or even exist, once met another guy whose "R32 Skyline" turned out to be a VP Commo with a Mercury outboard engine fitted underneath the bonnet, so, buyer beware, that's all I'll say. Unless you like projects, my advice to you my friend is avoid the pain, get the justjap cooling-pro intercooler kit, mine is still going choice bruzz for years now.
  24. my guess, and it is just a guess, is see how it is described as a "kit"? The core would be the same but the piping of this alleged "kit" would be a different pathway, although the piping diameter could, or may not be, or may be similar to, the same size. Possibly 64mm. Re "What should they be for an R33?" , I would estimate, with no legal claim of specific knowledge to, or of prior events pertaining to, the piping contained in "Blitz Intercooler SE Kit - Nissan Skyline ECR33/ER34 - Part No: 23100", being as suitable for application to an R33. Or more specifically, an ECR33. Hope that clarifies everything you needed to know, without searching the forums for the answer.
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