hardsteppa

Oh and new nipple, from - brake shops -nissan? - hosing places eg enzed

Get a new nipple. Get visegrip pliers, remove old nipple and fut new, continue bleeding brakes.

I charge 120 inc hoses, want me to fix it for u?

wow. yr a straitlaced fella aren't u. I'm well aware of what I wrote, that's why I wrote it that way.....it's just not the same when u gotta explain it..

lol at no idea why, the clue is in the first line of your post. but... There have been some great men through history, men with a dream. Martin Luther King for his work in civil rights, Louis Armstrong being the first man to walk on the moon, and Tom Berenger for his role in the "Sniper" series of movies. OP you say it won't fit, I say NO, don't let the dream die so easily. Just because it's a part manufactured for a different model of car is no reason that it WON"T fit, you have to make it happen...but the path to glory is never easy. Don't give up my friend, persevere and in the end, you will emerge victorious, and stronger of character for the experience. My thoughts will be with you.

^^^that's what i'm thinking. Wish you all the best with it but could really be a subframe out job. Let us know how you go with it and the diff rear bushes

Or if copper, refinish the surface with a light sandpapering and clean with shellite.

I don't have a license to do roadworthy's but I've driven cars before and it looks fine to me. I think you should go back to him and let him know you have asked other people who haven't actually seen the car and been told it's ok and they should either pass it, or give you your money back on the RWC. You could also try the ol' "it's a factory option" line, but I don't know if it will work in this case...

Nigga don't be giving the guy shit advice, that threaded bolt ain't even done up fu)king tiizzzight, and will strip out, fix up and helicoil yhat biatch..

pm'ed u

lol, credit where due, that is pretty good actually

Toyota exhaust nuts - m10x1.25 thread. Have a look and see if they're what you're talking about (sounds like they are). Used on a few different engines, definitely on the 3sgte's. Get them from any toyota parts dept, and cheap enough.

after reading this, yes I agree wholeheartedly, that yes, *YOU* should not try it as clearly you will become confused and a danger to other road users. So what you're saying is that all those professional race drivers should not be allowed to drive on public roads or hold a license. farken lolll, thanks o wise one, i will be sure to remember your words of wisdom , and you're certainly entitled to hold your own opinion, as is everyone else. My issue was with you crying down anyone who left-foot brakes as an idiot, without actually knowing anything about it. As said earlier it's a valuable technique worth learning, if you have the time/inclination./finished.

Yeah of course, you can't comprehend it so it can't be true. Indulge in a bit of self-education, i suggest starting with youtube.

I can't be the only one who's heard of left-foot braking in performance driving, surely, I mean i'm the first to admit I'm not even that flash a driver. And I'm not talking about the examples above of muppets driving round leaving their foot on brake, or not applying the technique properly. The idea is to make for a more smooth transition of the car; making it more stable when getting on/off throttle rather than the car shifting direction suddenly. I've only dabbled with it but you can feel the difference, especially when coming back on throttle out of a corner. Would take a lot of practice to have as a skill, but would imagine it would be a good thing to have as a performance driver.

Rear sway bar end link loose.

you didn't buy them off the seller on SAU by any chance did you? the guy that was selling Tein lowering springs for r33/34 that he said have been cut....? becuaee if you did then yes it would be safe to assume they have been cut...should be easy enough to see anyway

Front bushes on mine, just went out/ by hand.

even though the Nismo greabox mount says 'manual trans only' I can verify that it fits the auto, as I went thru the same thing as you about 6-8 months ago and just decided to order the Nismo mount anyway and see if it fitted rather than just use oem. I would suggest you look at the engine dampers like this http://justjap.com/jjr-engine-damper-kit-nissan-skyline-ecr33.html if you don't have one already, made a big difference in reducing the 'slop', and making the auto more responsive to throttle.

Yes u should def do subframe bushes while subframe is out, If u end up removing it. Tierod ends on rear aren't a moving part and nothing on them to wear, so would assume they mean the hicas balljoints in the knuckle. The front 2diff bushes are cheap for urethane ones & are piece o piss to do, would do that first before ripping out subframe.

Oh...yes pretty much what the other guy just said lol

Currently running a td05-18g, previously a hypergear hiflow, on r33/rb25. Both good for comparable to stock response, for the OP i would prob go with Stao's offer to build u one for your needs. I like the td05 but not really worth the dicking around to get to fit.

since when are BC BR's twintube...? but really, threads like this make me laugh, it descends almost every time into people so set on their own opinions and closeminded to even considering any other alternative, it's a waste of time even entering into discussion. For what it's worth, I wouldn't call BC's "good" suspension, but I would call them *great* value for money, and good for a lot of people/uses. No shortage of people worldwide happy with the product. Not the only option out there but not a bad one, Sydneykid Bilsteins with some decent quality springs being another good option. Being able to set your ride height to the exact mm you want at each corner is nice though, which the Bilstein option misses out on.

Yes, it certainly is a bike.

At no stage did i say only do the rears, not the fronts. To say the rears won't benefit from an upgrade is untrue, and from my own personal experience, worth doing. I did the rears first cause that's the kit that arrived first, and always interested to feel the change it makes; it wasn't undriveable but certainly not how i'd want to leave it....with bigger discs on the front too the brake bias feels fine to me and a massive upgrade over leaving stock at both ends.