Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, Pom here.

Is there any info about draining and refilling the coolant system?

I seem to have some very nasty rusty looking water in my Stag and would like some info before i drop it all out.

Just how to refill and bleed the system would be great.

This site is brilliant for Stag info.

Cheers

Sy.

Hey guys, Pom here.

Is there any info about draining and refilling the coolant system?

I seem to have some very nasty rusty looking water in my Stag and would like some info before i drop it all out.

Just how to refill and bleed the system would be great.

This site is brilliant for Stag info.

Cheers

Sy.

Here is a picture of the bleed valve - mine has a little tag on it that says "never open when hot(courtesy of SK):

Cam_Belt_Air_Bleed_Small.jpg

Thank you :)

Is it just a case of taking the bottom hose off and draining it ?

I have seen the little cross headed screw thingy on the rad but after reading how they break then i'd rather take the hose off. I seem to have a little leak underneath the inlet manifold that's dripping onto the oil filter, Is there anything around there that's common for leaking ?

Also what kind of coolant to use ?

I got no service history or booklets with this car ( Big gamble huh !) So im literally flying blind at the mo.

Didn't stop me doing the high boost mod and chucking the Apexi filter on today though .. :P

  • 4 weeks later...

hey all i am new here have a rs4 97 had nothing but dramas since i bought it (not to the cars fault) had some drunk hit me in the rear 2400 for standard bar so the joy begain body kit (from monkey warehouse) all the prep that go's with it and then the fiting was bodgie after hours of work had to go with the best i could do was not happy and the the frount mount done with no effort at all and then the elec boost controller then was happy with the over all performance of the wgn even with the 4-5 coil pack miss unitl now was not that badthis is a family car if the idiot had not hit me it would still be stock execpt cat back. i have 9 month old twins and cant stand commodore's hance the stagea. the miss seems to be the coil packs i only run 7psi in it as i cant go any higher has any one fixed this prob with just new coil packs or do i just go and get fuel cut as well would like to run 10psi or higher (for when i am on my own) i am prepared so spendthe money for coil packs but that is it as it needs new suspension and need to save mu pennys

i would also like to thank everyone for this godly place would still be licking wounds if it was not for all the info found hear when ever i am in doubt i come STRAIGHT hear and find much comfort..

again many THANKZ to you all

will give my system a flush now

Coil packs are expensive. have you checkd your plugs? Get a set of coppers gapped to 0.8mm (NGK BCPR7ES-8 are pre-gapped). If that doesn't fix it try to borrow some coils before you fork out for new ones (Yellow jackets seem to be as good as the splitfires but cheaper).

As for the tuning get an Apexi SAFC (old cheap one will do) and if you can find one an SITC for the timing.

BTW if you do a search on coil packs you'll find lots of ideas for insulating them with tape or epoxy.

Well annually should be fine for plugs but sounds as though you may need coil.

SAFC is fo adjusting air/fuel ratios .. will overcome rich/retard (what you were referring to as fuel/boost cut.

Basic models are $100 -$200 there is a flash one with blue screen in the skyline parts for sale of this website

Google Apexi SAFC for more info

thanks heapswill ask my mate if he can get me one aswell as the coil's.....

are you born and breed in nz??

i am from kaitaia(though born in aussie so got the best of both worlds a convict and kiwi)

wife is from d'urville island.

the coil packs seem to bee the most common thing that stops boost is this right??

is this just because they are crap[ or is there a tech reason they cant handle boost??

will spend the rest of the night catchin up on SAFC

many thanx again

  • 5 months later...

I remember someone put some DIY intercooler cleaning but can't find it anywhere, think they had half and half mix of turpentine and metho from memory with a rinse of water at the end. I read on some other site people using vacuums to dry them out.

I remember someone put some DIY intercooler cleaning but can't find it anywhere, think they had half and half mix of turpentine and metho from memory with a rinse of water at the end. I read on some other site people using vacuums to dry them out.
Yes its in the DIY sticky>intercoolers>>R34GTT i/c into stagea (and its kerosene and meths).
  • 11 months later...

(Yellow jackets seem to be as good as the splitfires but cheaper).

Don't buy the rip off splitfires (yellow jackets/Just Jap/Red jackets etc) as they're a poor substitute. The voltage output is all over the show and the latency is very slow. They also don't seem to last to long either.

Origional or Splitfires.

Cheers

Justin

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...