Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Manual R32 RB20DET

With

POD, FMIC, 3" Turbo back exhaust, empty Cat

on 11psi running on 95 octane (dont ask) got 140RWKW

Since then added

RB25 Turbo, RB26 Injectors, Nistune, cheap 3" Cat (to be legal)

And on 15psi running on 98 octane got 190RWKW

post-31383-1247027876_thumb.jpg

Yes tune needs a touch up but I'm happy with the results

considering how stock the engine is and how small the turbo is

  • 4 weeks later...

R32 GTS-T 1993-- Before i bought it 200.7 rwkw @16 psi

Since ive got it

Internally stock rb20det rebuilt at some stage to oem 130,000kz

z32 afm , pod filter

X force 3 inch exhaust whole way , catco highflow cat , 4 inch rocket tip

Remapped rb20 comp no rev limmiter revs past 9k , no boost limmiter

Rb25 turbo rear housing bored out , bigger rear steel exhaust wheel , recently bigger front housing and different bigger steel wheel

555cc injectors and bosche 044 fuel pump braided lines ect

adjustable cam gears

custom 80mm throttle body

Really neat FMIC huge for a r32 ,, engine bay detailed and neatened up

running boost T manual tap atm because have to go through regency running 15.5 PSI Very safe tune according to air fuel ratio

ran 235rwkw on 15.5 pound will make more with electronic boost controller...

""Future mods , poncams ,rb30 bottom end , forged pistons 22psi!!! 300+rwkw

Edited by dato$2nv

About time i put up my results..

R32 rb20det with 165k km's now

Internally stock rb20det

FMIC

Hypergear TR43

Z32 afm

Gtr injectors

X-force 3" dump/front pipe & High flow cat

3" cat back

Std airbox with small cai

Adj. cam gears

Walbro fuel pump

Dr Drift remap

215rwkw @ 16psi

aarondynocopyxx1.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
RB20DET

standard Internals

177,000+Kms

272hp atw @1.2k boost

MODS:

Apexi Power FC

HKS 2535

External Wastegate 45mm? I should have measured it...

550 Denso injectors

Z32 AFM

Old style BLITZ? FMIC

Bosch pump

3in from turbo, hi flow(ed) cat

just got the car.

loosing boost at top end due to cheap bleed valve.

Im measuring 550km on one tank (40L) with highway driving. 350km for city driving...

Thanks to the guys at Hyperdrive!

Retuned the motor last week at AllStars in Malaga.

Made 295whp @18 psi, 1.3 bar, pretty happy with that. made 20 odd hp across the board too.

the car felt better even from the carpark.

Changes made was,

Rb25 intake pipe before the throttle (bigger than 20) -$free

New pipe was made from the afm to turbo, made from truck intercooler piping (spools faster and makes impressive suction noise)-$free

Bosch 044 -$100 lucky score

2.5m longer vacum line to waste gate, open little later -$5

Cleaned air cleaner pod -$free

Cleaned intercooler core -$free

Leak free Bov!

and other air leaks fixed.

Run on 98ron fuel.

dynorun1108092.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys just got my r32 tuned with awesome results.

-balanced bottom end

-ceremic coated pistons

-1.2mm apexi head gasket

-ported head

-adjustable cam gears

-bosch fuel pump

-denso 550cc injectors

-z32 afm

-stainless lowmount manifold

-kkr480 turbo (modified)

-full 3" exhaust with custom dump pipe/front pipe

-custom intercooler and piping

-new eprom and tune by vonnie @ dyno tunz @ browns plains, qld

-turbosmart e-boost street

car made 227kw/304hp @ 19psi

:)

post-65220-1251629924_thumb.jpg

  • 5 weeks later...

-RB20DET / Stock internals

-HKS 2540 ball bearing turbo

-Cast exhaust manifold

-38mm turbonectics wastegate

-Link plus ECU

-370cc injectors

-Bosch 040 fuel pump

-Splitfire coils

-GTR intercooler

-3" exhaust

-Greddy bov

-Malpassi Fuel Reg

-80mm throttle body

-Oil cooler

-Alloy Pully kit

170kw at the wheels on 14psi on dyno dynamics dyno, tuned by mike at diesal and turbo,

got hks 264 9.0mm cams still to put in, also looking at a GT3040 turbo, then a retune on 18psi :P

Edited by NMSIS
  • 1 month later...

Hey. RB20 in my R31 wagon

Greddy 600x450x76 cooler

RB25 hiflow Turbo

Bosch 040 pump

Apexi pod

3inch Exhaust With Hi Flow Cat

Bleed valve

additional shit to consider..

Stock injectors.

10:1 AFR

No oxygen sensor.

Timing 10 degrees out.

160.34kw @ 12psi 10:1 AFR.

This is a Chip that we have developed for DSR430-RB20DET using Standard Internals, Injectors, regulator.

Only Modifications were, DSR430 G2 Turbo, Walbro pump, front mount intercooler and Tune.

boostrb20det2.jpgw446.png

dynorb20det.jpgw448.png

http://www.d1nz.co.nz

http://www.jdmperformance.com.au/

Edited by dsrturbo
Standard RB20DET

HKS2530

GTR Injectors

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

Z32 AFM

CoolingPro Intercooler

175-180rwkw at 14psi with slight misfire.

Getting retuned at 18psi once I have unfouled plugs and some Splitfire coils.

Got it tuned to today at 18psi with yellow jacket coilpacks.

Would only spike to 18psi and trail off to about 16psi.

Got 210rwkw, had a really bad batch of fuel though. Had to knock heaps of timing off compared to last tune and even then its pinging, siphoning the tank tonight and getting some better stuff.

Just so everyone knows only buy Synergy 8000 from Mobil, don't buy the '98' that some of them are selling as it seems to be completely different.

r32 gts-t rb20. internally stock.

garret gt2876r, gtr injectors, z32, bosch 040, full 3inch exhaust, greddy fmic, 3a pod filter, dr drift remap, powwwa 225kw

dont have dyno papers yet but was really happy with the results going back again to install cam gears...thanks to sam at dr drift great guy.

  • 3 weeks later...

1990 Nissan Skyline GTS-T R32

1480000km

Internally Stock motor

Split style stainless dump pipe

3" exhaust decat

RB25 turbo @ 13.5psi

NPC 5 puk clutch

Pod filter

500hp walbro internal fuel pump

cooling pro Fmic

greddy catch can

oil cooler and oil filter relocation kit

That dyno chart is not quite a full run as the car was having trouble at the time with boost and a misunderstanding with the mechanic thinking it was running 28 psi when infact it was only running 14. so he backed off in the top end.

The car has since been fitted with a std series 2 rb25 turbo and seems alot more responsive and angry up high. I am just waiting to get a fuel pressure reg and I will get her back on the dyno.

post-36382-1260864404_thumb.jpg

post-36382-1260864449_thumb.jpg

post-36382-1260864576_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

95 240sx

Ford Lightning MAF blow through, Tomei 270 cams, Tomei valve springs, Tomei headgasket, Rips intake manifold, Protech-fabrication turbo manifold, Stainless 02 housing made by Protech-fabrication, Precession SC61 turbo, Tail 40mm gate, Sard 800cc injectors, Supra TT fuel pump, Nistune Type 2 board, HKS EVC 4 (not hooked up at the time)

398Hp @ 16.8psi Couldn't get my nistune to listen to me :blink: so basically it was set for the injectors and maf on the stock map. Ran really rich then started to go lean up top so I'm going to rewire the fuel pump for next time. If I can get control of my map I'm sure I can hit over 400hp at the same boost levels. Pump gas used for the runs.

RB20DETdyno.jpg

Edited by BlueRB240

RB22 - 370rwhp 481nm at 18.5 did a run at 20.5psi 388rwhp and 505 nm

but will keep it safe for now and still only running std rb20 g box

5000 rpm peak hp 5750 rpm peak nm.

revs right through to 8000 rpm holding 355 rwhp to end with 17psi on drop off

HKS 2835 GT Pro 0.82

HKS 264 in /ex cams

HKS adj cam gears

ARIAS custom forged pistons and rings

HKS head gasket

ACL competition bearings

New springs

balanced, blueprinted internals

rb 25 crankshaft, rb26 GTR CONRODS

GTR Injectors

Nistune

Greddy FMIC

K & N pod filter

Splitfire coilpacks

Z32 AFM

race ported head

gates race belt, tensioners etc.

Custom extra capacity sump

Oil restrictors in head

Massive Oil return from head to sump

Crank Collar

Custom Baffled catch can setup with full oil return to sump

Greddy Oil cooler with relocation kit

Exedy Single Plate 5 puk clutch

Walbro fuel pump

3" straight through with 5/6" cannon muffler

Manual Turbosmart Boost T

A touch laggy but mainly using as drift car at Barbagello so a track specific setup anything or anywhere else would use same turbo 0.63 rear or 3071r with 0.63 rear housing or Trust TD06g for little more response

alot of time etc spent on oil system to get that right and up to standard for harshest conditions

Am pretty happy with the setup .. has 400hp in it may go there if put a 25 g box in it... only really want to add a Plazaman plenum to shorten cooler piping and possibly increase response and mid range a touch and a 6boost just because

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...