Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for 90 degree corners, on the street where the limit is 60, the ratio of 2nd gear is usually right for exiting the corner. imagine putting it in 5th and trying to accelerate back up to 60 :P

after a month or so of practice, you'll probably look back at this question and just think "because".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1907403
Share on other sites

its actually all about your speed when you turn. the reason y your instructor told u to turn in 2rd is becoz the 2nd gear would be more suitable for you when u come out of the corner, u are on your right gear and ready to accelerate.

if u can handle turnin a lot faster, of course u can turn in your 3rd gear but for a beginner, it is not safe to do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1907435
Share on other sites

As long as the engine isn't labouring too low in the rev range, or screaming its tits off on the rev limiter, the choice of gear is entirely up to you. Having speciffic gears for speciffic occasions is good when you first start learning to drive as you haven't developed good gear selection judgement.

But with today's 5 and 6 speed gearboxes, there are often more than one than one ratio to suit a given occasion. On a 50km/h back street, I may choose 3rd, 4th or 5th gear depending on situation, gradient and mood. Going through corners and roundabouts I might choose 1st, 2nd or 3rd again, depending on mood, radius and situation (or 4th gear if I'm in Mum's Alfa Romeo - man that things torquey for an atmo 2 litre!).

Oo...I was under the impression if I turn on 3rd gear it'll damage the car....also I was adviced to change gear only after I exit the corner completely..is this necessary?

Won't damage the car in 3rd gear unless the engine is labouring (which you will feel and hear). Changing gear only after exiting the corner completely is about keeping your driving smooth. A mid corner gear change can be difficult to get smooth without practice.

Edited by Big Rizza
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1908626
Share on other sites

How to turn a perfect 90 degree corner:

- Slow down from 100km/h to about 30km/h by the time you reach the corner.

-Turm the steering wheel in the selected direction (left or right) as you push the clutch all the way in.

- Rev the engine up to 5000rpm as you enter the corner and then dump the clutch.

- As the ass slides outwards and you car overcorners, spin the wheel back in the opposite direction and slowly let of the revs letting the wheels regain traction while maintaining the car in a forwards direction.

- Check for cops.

- Stick your hand out the window and give a thumbs up to the school girls you almost cleaned up.

- Continue accelerating back up to 100km/h as you bask in glory.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1909122
Share on other sites

How to turn a perfect 90 degree corner:

- Slow down from 100km/h to about 30km/h by the time you reach the corner.

-Turm the steering wheel in the selected direction (left or right) as you push the clutch all the way in.

- Rev the engine up to 5000rpm as you enter the corner and then dump the clutch.

- As the ass slides outwards and you car overcorners, spin the wheel back in the opposite direction and slowly let of the revs letting the wheels regain traction while maintaining the car in a forwards direction.

- Check for cops.

- Stick your hand out the window and give a thumbs up to the school girls you almost cleaned up.

- Continue accelerating back up to 100km/h as you bask in glory.

haha love it :lol:

i mean no, bad influence!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1909234
Share on other sites

your instructor wants you to go slow around corners so you dont crash. going fast around corners = pain

my cars auto and i still throw it into 2nd when im doing corners.

that's not cool, you'll stuff the gearbox doing that. it's undue stress. those auto gearboxes are designed to be driven in Drive gear. 1 and 2 (or more if you're lucky) are mainly for hills. do you see a clutch on that thing?? just a heads up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1909736
Share on other sites

....also I was adviced to change gear only after I exit the corner completely..is this necessary?

I guess you wouldnt call it "necessary" for driving when licensed but for a driving test yes it is. He would of also told you to make sure you have selected second gear before you start to turn.

It's to do with "vehicle control". They (testers) want you to have full control of the vehicle during a turn, meaning both hands are to be on the steering wheel during the whole of the turning manouvre i.e dont up/downshift during the turn as you will be driving with one hand for a moment.

Dont remember back to my P plate test but on the numerous heavy vehicle tests I have done it was an immediate failure to down or upshift during a turning manouvre.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1910551
Share on other sites

Cornering? Piss easy. As already said & is true is that 2nd for the speeds you "should" be doing the correct speeds for that gear to be on suitable rpm. Brake in a straight line, finish your gear change before your turn, slow in fast out etc etc.........

ctjet, grow up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1910561
Share on other sites

Oo...I was under the impression if I turn on 3rd gear it'll damage the car....also I was adviced to change gear only after I exit the corner completely..is this necessary?

As other people have said, it'll only damage the engine if you're so low in the rev range that you make the engine lug.

But, as a learner, you shouldn't be screaming around corners so second gear should be the "right" one for a novice.

With a bit of experience, for street use its not dangerous to change gear mid corner. If you're at the limit its not exactly smart to go changing gears (since it really messes with the balance of the car), and for a novice it might be asking you to do a few too many things at once.

Don't forget, the driving instructor is there to each people who have little to no driving experience what is the "best practice". Once you start driving, you'll find out which best practices aren't mandatory for commuting (stuff like push/pull steering, which is good to learn but almost useless in a modern passenger car).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1910585
Share on other sites

thanks for the advice..so now I can turn in 3rd gear..muahhahaha

but still when exiting the corner..it's gonna be slow to accelerate if at 3rd gear~~ I'll stick with 2nd I guess...unless insanely fast

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1911303
Share on other sites

Your instructor told you to go around the corner in second gear because this is the 4th step in the system of vehicle control.

First is identify the hazard.

Then check your road position and adjust accordingly.

Check your mirrors.

Gears/brakes.

Indicate for the relevant hazard

After completing the driving task continue on at the speed limit/with traffic flow.

(I am doing a driving instructors course at the moment, and couldn't help)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-1916707
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
How to turn a perfect 90 degree corner:

- Slow down from 100km/h to about 30km/h by the time you reach the corner.

-Turm the steering wheel in the selected direction (left or right) as you push the clutch all the way in.

- Rev the engine up to 5000rpm as you enter the corner and then dump the clutch.

- As the ass slides outwards and you car overcorners, spin the wheel back in the opposite direction and slowly let of the revs letting the wheels regain traction while maintaining the car in a forwards direction.

- Check for cops.

- Stick your hand out the window and give a thumbs up to the school girls you almost cleaned up.

- Continue accelerating back up to 100km/h as you bask in glory.

i did what he states and i got some cheers and almost a ticket from the cops :ermm:

its recommended if ur a beginner =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103788-why-2nd-gear/#findComment-2067842
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...