Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

She's run a big end, driver has continued on,  rod grabs and chucks itself out....Pretty usual RB  behaviour.....  :D

NB.  The blueing on the rod big end is the givaway as to the event sequence........

i reckon we may have a winner here.

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

was it in a street or track engine? if the motor was used for motor sport your on ya own . if it was a street motor i would be talking with the engine builder for some sort of compersation also depending how many ks the engine had done of course .but i reckon it looks like rod bolt failure to me .

if it was built in japan and just gave up

my guess was

previouse engine owner spun a bearing ( thought shit this will cost)

pulled off the sump replaced bearings put her back to gether running and sold her at the auctions

on tight arse jobs he probably just slapped teh bearings in and dindt torque it down properly

the 1000km later because the previouse owner didnt fix the actuall problem for the bearing failure you have had the same drama but obviously the dirver dint here the rattle before it was too late

if built in australia and is only fresh there are 1000 other reasons

pete

You say you wasnt driving it, was it knocking the last time you drove it ?

If yes the big ands gave up due to oil starvation , spun kept driving and the rest ..........

If it wasnt knocking then the dodgy patch up job has more weight , like pete said . Either way if the engine was recently built well i wouldnt gat tem to build mine ..

I feel sorry for you Charlie , something like that happen to me about 3 years ago. Mine a turbo spat the wheel out and stuffed the engine while someone else had the car and took it around the block, he even lost it and hit the kerb !!!

She's run a big end, driver has continued on,  rod grabs and chucks itself out....Pretty usual RB  behaviour.....  :P

NB.  The blueing on the rod big end is the givaway as to the event sequence........

God has spoken :D

She's run a big end, driver has continued on,  rod grabs and chucks itself out....Pretty usual RB  behaviour.....  :D

NB.  The blueing on the rod big end is the givaway as to the event sequence........

I'm with Benno. There are even signs of heat spots on the journal face in the bearing cap.

Sorry but sounds like driver error (yet again) in that the foot didn't lift when the knocking started. Sure there might have been a little damage but not catastrophic.

She's run a big end, driver has continued on,  rod grabs and chucks itself out....Pretty usual RB  behaviour.....  :D

NB.  The blueing on the rod big end is the givaway as to the event sequence........

It definately wasn't idling at the time it let go either...

She's run a big end, driver has continued on,  rod grabs and chucks itself out....Pretty usual RB  behaviour.....  :P

NB.  The blueing on the rod big end is the givaway as to the event sequence........

LOL...when i saw the pic i thought something silly with a rod bolt...but there are those that know more then i ever will :D

I think the people that had the thought it wasnt to bad took it for drive. i think you said you had a 9k limter and say they sat on it alway around the block. Question when you went and seen the car was the oil spilt all over there work shop floor or a least a new patch where it happen or was it down the road more.

Hope you sort it out

Brad

First, let me say I am sorry to see an RB in that condition, hope the rebuild works out well.

You can look for all sorts of reasons, the one that sticks out for me is that it's #6. The one that suffers from detonation first, the one that suffers from oil starvation first, the one that runs the leanest etc. All that makes me lean towards big end bearing failure caused by eithe detonation or oil starvation.

For detonation, check the piston top. For oil starvation, look at the other bearings and the crank, there should be some signs.

I guess it's because I see blown up race engines all the time. But compared to the original build price, it's not a high cost repair by the look of it. Weld up the block, new/used crank, one rod, one piston, new bearings, gaskets and seals. Around $5K should cover it easily.

There may be hidden other damage, so be carefull when disassembling it. It is possible to cause more damage if close attention isn't paid to the process.

:) cheers :D

Blk180, The last time I saw the car was when I had it towed to the workshop after the initial problem developed. The car was tuned very conservatively to run on pump fuel, so it wasn't detonation. I am not sure about the oil spill location as I didn't see the car again until it was towed to another workshop.

Piston has also hit the head and bent 4 valves. Luckily, the head will be repaired.

She's run a big end, driver has continued on,  rod grabs and chucks itself out....Pretty usual RB  behaviour.....  sad.gif

NB.  The blueing on the rod big end is the givaway as to the event sequence........

It definately wasn't idling at the time it let go either...

Correct.

I'm with Benno. There are even signs of heat spots on the journal face in the bearing cap.

Sorry but sounds like driver error (yet again) in that the foot didn't lift when the knocking started. Sure there might have been a little damage but not catastrophic.

Exactly.

There are alot of things that I cannot say for obvious reasons, but I will say that the engine developed an engine knock which we initially diagnosed as a big end knock. So I had towed it back to the workshop to avoid any further damage.

I don't believe it is the engine builder's fault.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...