Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
:D

108952_18mg.jpg

Sorry to dig up an old thread.

The pic above, will that be enough to provide decent cooling using the factory ducts and the deflectors mounted to the lower arms?

I've got the front bumper off my R32 GT-R at the moment, doing some mods and was wondering whether anyone cuts through the inner guard to provide more airflow into the wheel well using the two horizontal slots that are either side of the main intake opening on the front bumper?

I'm sure I've seen at least one fast R33 GT-R at the track use this method (used plastic mesh similar to what you put over a gutter to keep leaves out etc to go over the hole).

I've attached a pic showing where I am talking about. I tried searching the forum but found minimal info about this type of thing. I'm presuming no one really does it because it's not worth it?

post-17881-1241666641_thumb.jpg

Thanks mate, I've got the undertray ducts and have recently ordered deflectors for the arms. Looking forward to your solution! :D

Did you order Nissan deflectors or the ones from Unique Autosports?

It shouldn't be too hard to bash something together with aluminium plate & strap it onto the castor rod/LCA?

I cannot for the life of me remember if these ones are stock or aftermarket. The appear to have a couple of holes to use where the castor rod meets the LCA.

post-5134-1241673487_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1241673498_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81

Wow this thread is old! since then I've bought a set of the genuine nissan caster rod reflectors, because I am limited to standard parts.

The ones that UAS make and similar are cheaper and better than the nissan ones.

Wow this thread is old! since then I've bought a set of the genuine nissan caster rod reflectors, because I am limited to standard parts.

The ones that UAS make and similar are cheaper and better than the nissan ones.

Yeah sorry for that, it was either make a new thread or continue on with something that was kind of related to what I was after :D

DJR81, I haven't received them yet, will take pics and post them up once they arrive and are fitted.

Yeah sorry for that, it was either make a new thread or continue on with something that was kind of related to what I was after :D...

absolutely no problems, I love when someone searches and looks at what was said before instead of starting from scratch every time.

It was actually from this thread years ago that I found out that the caster rod deflectors are standard (n1) and so they are legal for me to run on the race car. I ordered them about a year ago out of japan (very hard to find and possibly nil stock with nissan now) and put them on. Can't really tell if they made a difference as I changed multiple things at the same time.

But locally made ones are larger and cheaper anyway.

Did you order Nissan deflectors or the ones from Unique Autosports?

It shouldn't be too hard to bash something together with aluminium plate & strap it onto the castor rod/LCA?

I cannot for the life of me remember if these ones are stock or aftermarket. The appear to have a couple of holes to use where the castor rod meets the LCA.

the ones you pictured are the nismo ones for R32 GTR. they were fibreglass or FRP maybe, and were about triple the size of the stock ones. the stock R32 ones were rubber and are in that parts diagram posted above. I think the stock castor rod deflector ones were only on nismo 32s, v specs and v spec IIs, and N1s. but all cars had the ducts under the bar that bolt to the front lip holes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...