Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i want to paint the rocker cover of my RB20 but i dont know what kind of paints i should use. im guess i should just use a normal primer or a plastic primer (when painting plastic bits ie,cam cover) and then a heat paint.

has any one done it and if so can you post some pics cause i think me engine needs a nice tidy up.

thanks

  • Replies 297
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah I took 2 shots at with the spray on engine paint, then gave up and had it done in tupac.

You can pick up the engine paint at any car bits shop and ahve a go, it may be OK if you are going a dark colour like black, but it looked crap in yellow.

No primer required engine paint goes straight on bare metal

or try the metal cast paints.. there is a section in the DIY regarding painting brake calipers.. heat resistant and has a primer and colour application.

thats what i'll be using for my cam gear and spark plug covers. just gotta get off my arse and do it lol

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalcast.html

i painted mine rb20 engine cover blue with plastic primer paint came up a treat and my friend also painted his cover too in white also came up well, cant see any cracking or anything from the heat so its all good.

or try the metal cast paints.. there is a section in the DIY regarding painting brake calipers.. heat resistant and has a primer and colour application.

thats what i'll be using for my cam gear and spark plug covers. just gotta get off my arse and do it lol

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalcast.html

i tried using that shit on my cam cover, and the results were tragic. the primer worked a charm and actually looked really good, but once the blue metalcast went on, it was SOOO flat and DULL. it looked like absolute shit

it was pathetic. ontop of that, the design of the nozzle is so ingenious that the spray pattern is such that it actually clips the rim of the can when spraying, so as your spraying your creating this pool of paint on the inside of the lip on the can. my first can had a faulty nozzle and just leaked like crazy, i took it back to autobarn and they replaced it for free. tried again and it came out dull and shit again, i dont know if i didnt give it enough coats or what, i was up to 2 coats and a single can wasnt enough it seemed for a rocker cover..

after hours spent paint stripping it back to bare, i used 'engine enamel' from autobarn, no primer required, chose a gold colour, looks awesome. this is my experience :laugh:

  • 8 months later...

An old thread I know - but I just wanted to warn everyone about the Dupli-Colour metalcast (anodize) colours!!!

I too have experienced the very dull appearance of the blue one. If only I read this thread earlier.

Followed every instruction to a tee and had all surfaces preped perfectly (with undercoat etc). It looked like shlt - dull as, not even a metallic look to it.

But I do not think it is limited to the blue one as I have heard of a few others turning out dull - bad batches??

As I am a sucker for punishment, I gave it another go using red this time and it turned out perfect. Ironically blue was probably a poor colour choice in the first place as red looks the goods.

Anyway - if I had my time again I would go the powdercoat route - prolly works out cheaper!!

Here's a pic of the duplicolor red > cam covers, apexi pod adapters, and a few other bits. Also did the OEM strut brace - no more faded red (yay). nice chrome strut brace would be nicer but hey - gotta work with what you've got.

Just the coil pack cover to come and then I'll bolt it back on. knowing me I will scratch the sh!t out of them putting it back on and have to start again :wave:

Cheers,

Tay

post-6697-1162992718.jpg

nope it doesnt need to be out :wave:

Cost on having this sort of thing done professionally?

I imagine it would be 'fairly' cheap if a common colour was chosen.

e.g. if timed properly could use the 'leftovers' from someones respray

Possible?

Yeah its sort of tricky to do it IMO

If youre not doing the plenumn it would be easier

Its basically just some screws and unplugging the ignitor box - aswel as the cam gear cover

Get in there and have a look around the base of all the parts you want to spray at what holds them on - that will give you the best idea

Oh, you may need to take the crossover pipe off for a bit aswel so you can get easy access to the ignitor

Cost on having this sort of thing done professionally?

I imagine it would be 'fairly' cheap if a common colour was chosen.

e.g. if timed properly could use the 'leftovers' from someones respray

Possible?

no idea what it'd cost to get 'professionally' done, i got a mate to do mine :rofl:

Im getting the rocker covers and the cross over piping polished chrome, and intercooler piping repolished as its not much more expensive to get that done aswell, And the plastic covers painted.

Just wanted to know when u removed the rocker covers did u need a new gasket or anything as i haven't removed them on my car before.

If so how much was the new gasket or could u re-use the old one?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...