Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 297
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have gone for the covers etc to be fully polished up for a nice clean look with some brackets powder coated blue where others are powdercoated black..Still have a hard pipe to fit this weekend which should brighten it up even more..Engine will then get a once over to clean the dirty fingerprints and then i will get some proper pics of the engine and car..

DSC_0077.jpg

DSC_0096.jpg

Heres mine with paint just mixed up at autobarn with the heat stuff clear,

anyone got any sugguestion on how to get the rest of the shit off the plenumpost-16324-1167909787.jpg

and markyboy.1967 ur engine bay looks good lots of works gone in to it

and btw i like ur idea on cutting the middle bit out for the coils never seen it b4

Heres mine with paint just mixed up at autobarn with the heat stuff clear,

anyone got any sugguestion on how to get the rest of the shit off the plenumpost-16324-1167909787.jpg

and markyboy.1967 ur engine bay looks good lots of works gone in to it

and btw i like ur idea on cutting the middle bit out for the coils never seen it b4

sorry to bother you but what are your filters? they look almost the same as what I am chasing to replace the m's filters on my car.

James.

thought id pop these up , i thought id go for something completely different , i was gonna go get something done in the shop, but i thought id do this myself , and have 2 colours to make it stand out... looks crazy , im happy with the way it turned out.

redyellow-1.jpg

alright guys for those who want to know what was done . ill do a mini write up in this thread !

1/ pretty much if you search the forums for "rocker cover diy" you will find a great write up on how to remove them and replace the gaskets. now you dont need to replace the gaskets unless they are cracked . i planned on replacing mine because i had an oil leak along the bottom block . but the gaskets looked fine and were still rubbery . my guess is the screws werent tight enough even though they shouldnt be too tight !!

when you remove your CAS , gauge with a marking knife exactly the position around the bolts onto the CAS so you dont distrupt your timing .

2/ once you have removed everything and you basically have your coil cover / rocker covers and cam cover off place them on a surface. collect a can of degreaser . spray all these items down thoroughly . wash the degreaser off after 2-3 mins . now there still maybe a rough surface and build up of debree. so collect some 800 gritt wet and dry paper . wet each item as you do them and sand them down until they are 100% smooth and free from any dirt . on the coil cover also remove the nissan 2500 sticker or tape it up . along the sides of the coil cover it could apear cracker , this is a small thin like a gasket to make the coil cover sit hard in , mine was cracked heaps , so i just removed it - it comes of heaps easy , and just clean any debree with a stanly knife.

3/ once everything has dried , collect some thinners or turps/metho . and wipe down to clean any missed debree. thinners would be the best because it'll eat it away and dry off fast .

4/collect the engine enamel paint of your desire. now lightly do 1 coat with smooth strokes. repeat this process 3 times so you have 4 nice tough coats , and leave about 20 mins between each coat or until touch dry. leave to dry overnight. the supercheap paint is primer enriched , so you dont need to buy a seperate primer.

5/ the next morning . check for any debree that could fall on the parts , if so lightly sand them off and maybe spray a final coat . if not needed , collect the can of clear enamel , and do a nice thick coat , so that its all nice and glossy. do about 2-3 coats allow 1 hr drying between each . the clear enamel takes a lot longer to dry.

6/ you may need to leave everything for a couple of days . because the clear may take a while to harden , as said in on the can , the items wont fully be cured until under emense heat . so basically when they are on and installed again they will dry over time , and the heat will help dramatically.

7/ if you have light oil leak like i did , i also got some sealent for the gaskets from supercheap auto and placed it all on the bottom block where the gasket sits , to seal everything.

8/ collect all your bolts and spray them with degreaser before you install - so they are nice and clean , i found this usefull because mine were all dirty and im in the process of cleaning my bay out thoroughly.

9/ be carefull when installing everything , i had a few knocks and a few scratches . its not easy doing it by yourself so all i can say is be carefull because it could happen , and use something to prop up any cables/hoses to prevent light scratches . if you do get some , the spray is good because you can do little touch ups and it will dry as its been a full coat spray .

10 / once installed make sure your car starts properly etc . and everything is connected before starting.

my products used were from super cheap .

i used the following

- septone - yellow engine enamel - 2 cans , you will only need 1 and a quater can , will have heaps left over for future touch ups if needed. [ around $15 a can]

- septone - clear high protectant engine enamel . - 1 can only [ $18 ]

- 1 sheet 800 wett and dry [ $1 ]

- 1 can degresser [ $2 ]

- small amount of thinners / metho / turps [ $4 ]

- gasktet sealant [ $8 ]

thats pretty much all i can say for now , but if you have any further Q's , just PM me . or let me know if iv missed anything . thanks for the comments guys . cheers

Edited by sky017

i did one rocker cover before on another car - and in all honesty , the paint will only crack if you dont remove all oil from the covers , happened to me on my old car , small section cracked , i found moisture in between cracks , must of missed a spot when cleaning .

so be carefull and take your time dude . and cover all your pipes with cloth too , i dropped a spanner down my fmic pipe ha ha lol - had to take the lower pipe off - mistakes happen so take mine to your advantage .

good luck - cheers

haha im on to you - i picked one up this morning from bunnings and started doing my crossover pipe . didnt finish it because i needed to drive . if you look at the crossover compared to other side you will see the colour difference. i need to buy a smaller one to reach into crevices .

yeah, I saw your partial buffing. I've got a tip for you bud. You have to get it flat before you buff it.

Start by using a file, or a sanding attachment for a grinder. Get rid of those dimply things.

there used to be a great thread on supra forums, but the link has changed

I love the clean and shiny/painted engine bays. The only thing making me scared to do it is the stupid cops. I'd hate to be pulled over, and the cop sees shiny bling bling, and decides to defect me.

Whereas, if it's stock looking, he might just look over it and ignore it.

yeah man i only used steal brush on the end of my drill to test it out . but im gonna do that properly in a couple of days .

btw why would a cop defect you for have a shiney engine bay? unless you have a visable atmo bov and some other things , then your asking for trouble.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...