Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as most of you know the oil filter on the r32gtr is in a shit of a position.....

how in the f**k do i get it out? i dont want to put a screw driver though it cause im not sure if i could get the new one on and tightened

are there any tools that would help?? i was thinkin bout taking off the intake manifold

what do the rest of you guys do??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110150-changing-oil-filter-on-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

cant say the same for my GTR. i noticed that the oil filter has been relocated to the front. go to Repco and ask for an oil filter removal tool, i cant remember the name of it, but ask em for the one with three claws on it. you need a shifter for it but they work best, or you can use an old bit of seat belt strap. when you put your new filter on dont overtighten it cos it can damage the thread and makes it hard the next time you change it.

Its a real bastard with the HICAS units in place.

Like edspaged2 said you need an oil filter removal tool, it fits on a 3/8' ratchet and will undo it. THen you need rubber arms to get the damn thing out.

Back in is easier since you don't have to do it up too tight :mad:

What replacement filters do you guys use? Mine had a genuine jap nissan filter on it, bought a ryco replacement only to find its much bigger and literally cannot fit down there (something driverside of the filter location is too close).

I have a relocator kit but didn't have the patients or time to try and get it fitted, it's hard enough just fit/removing the filter where it is let alone trying to get a relo kit down there (which wont be long enough anyway).

Edited by benm

Well after consulting www.rycofilters.com.au I got the Z145A (pretty much the same filter for all Nissan Imports).

It's about 2cm larger in diameter than the nissan filter (#1520853500) and I spent a good 5min trying to get the damn thing on after dropping the oil but I either wasn't lining it up properly (can barely get my hand down there let alone fiddling around with a filter as well) or it was rubbing up against something beside it (driverside).

Edited by benm
Any ideas on how to fit the oil relocator? Can you just drill pilot holes and then bolt it to the engine bay? Or do you need to rivet it in?

Nah, you can get one's which just screw in, but there are one's which come with little screws so you can drill pilot holes to keep it firmly in place.

  • 2 months later...

FYI: to remove the filter, you need one of the large bottle top openers. you can get them from hardware stores like bunnings/BBC for about $10.

they are usually plastic with an adjustable rubber lash/lead. these are perfect mothers day presents which is why I originally bought one- no more "can you come over and open a jar for me"

They are perfect for oil filter removal so I bought one for myself

I am an avid believer that tools should not be used for any other purpose then it was originally designed for however working for a rally team makes you improvise- cost vs. benefit of this is excellent! for what it costs, I would use it as a hammer if I needed to!

for the gtr, loop it around the filter and pull the lengthening strap tight. it wont sit flat but close enough is ok. Make sure that it is between the plenum and fuel return/feed lines- closer to the strut tower, not the dip stick- push towards the firewall!

it should come straight off!

I found a really good removal tool in autobarn (believe it or not) It has a threaded adjusment on it with a small handle so you can really tightening it down onto the filter and then you dont have to hold it on there. All it needs then is a crack to the left.

I don't know how you guys get these tools down there, I can barely fit my hand down into the filter area...

ditch that ryco shit. buy a genuine filter (and make sure it's the right one too). that will help. then invite over a 12 year old, or someone with really small arms and make them do it for you.

  • 7 months later...

i dont know where you get your ideas from but just so you know ryco make all the 'factory' filters in OZ so there stuff may have a different cover so if you get the right one it should fit as well as a genuine nissan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...