Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Enough to hit a tire and crash mate.?? For me I ant want no bit of oil in the catch can. I have went as far as putting those camshaft covers (oil splash) on all the cam caps. And beat the shit out the car. I was running a .9mm restrictor with n1 oil pump at 9k stock head. It was suicide I know. I dont care im out to find out for my self. Im reading some articles now on old nismo r32 track cars looking for clues.

Kml. Im just frustrated about it mate. Its seems like what im find out is some good info. Rbs sucks a## at returning the oil as the returns are only on one side of the head. 2zj has it if I remember right on both sides. From what I see it seems like ya just have to work out a very good system of letting it breath. Seems like its a big brething issue mate. Ill keep search on solution. I cant seem to find good photos of there setups from nismo. Like the way they plum the lines and catch cans.

Found the solution:D:D:lol::lol::lol:

Dry sump mate dry sump. All the way. Wow.

Well no matter what if you get it all right. Its simply wont last. Read the hi octain r32 gtr arical great info. I will sell my bmw and buy my first dry sump setup

http://hioctaneracing.com/blog/2010/11/19/the-reality-of-the-rb26-oiling-system-part-2.html

Is dry sump oil pan avalible for 4wd oil pan. ??

Yes rich people and serious racers use dry sump on the Rb26 (and RB30) but for the rest of us a proper closed system works fine. I can't believe anyone would knowingly dump oil on the track. They wouldn't last long over here.

If you got anywhere near the end of the oil control thread Marcus you will have found a consensus on what works short of dry sumping it.

Yes rich people and serious racers use dry sump on the Rb26 (and RB30) but for the rest of us a proper closed system works fine. I can't believe anyone would knowingly dump oil on the track. They wouldn't last long over here.

If you got anywhere near the end of the oil control thread Marcus you will have found a consensus on what works short of dry sumping it.

By no means am I rich wouldn't even think so mate. Juat thought I would mention that. We all must come to the conclusion that these rb motors are flawed in this area. Just last night I came to terms wit it. Im not going to spend this kind of cash into a vechile and fight with oiling issue which is one of the worst ones you can have. Mind you I have read this whole thread and to date I own no rb motor that spits oil out. Rb26 that is. One of my old rb25's does it tho only if its over filled. But that just means the bottom end is starving or cavitating.

I do have my cars set up when it comes to catch tanks and all with info I got from this thread and others. But my decision to go dry sump has nothing to do with a consensus. It just that I see way more benefits just building one dry sump setup in the coming future for my r33 gtr. I have been gathering parts for that build for years im almost done. Thank god I do all my own work or I would never be able to do any of this. So not rich here mate just work my a☆☆ off for the things I have or want. As for the champions anyone that owns a skyline is a champ in my eyes. :D

I cant see sending more than 10k on a dry sump setup. In the past I looked it up and saw most of the stuff for like 6k. Thats missing a few things. For the ease of mind and all the additional benefits from what I see comes with dry sump setup I cant see why I would spend 25k plus on a build to not just go dry sump even if its just one of my cars. If the motor was to fail it wouldn't sit good in my head now spending the 25k and having to build again for 25k. I feel its worth it really.

Im new to dry sump and have lots to learn about it. Doesnt seem to hard to set up tho.

Edited by MJTru

I cant see sending more than 10k on a dry sump setup. In the past I looked it up and saw most of the stuff for like 6k. Thats missing a few things. For the ease of mind and all the additional benefits from what I see comes with dry sump setup I cant see why I would spend 25k plus on a build to not just go dry sump even if its just one of my cars. If the motor was to fail it wouldn't sit good in my head now spending the 25k and having to build again for 25k. I feel its worth it really.

Im new to dry sump and have lots to learn about it. Doesnt seem to hard to set up tho.

There is no doubt that dry sump is the best way to go. You should be able to put it together for not much more than the $6k you mention although you can spend a lot on hoses and connectors.

As I said before fatz you have to raise the level of the breathers on the sump by some means if you need to over fill to keep supply to the pickup. It's either that or you need to extend the sump to make more volume below.

And for effs sake put some kind of can on the breather from the filler cap as a last line of defence against dumping to ground.

Edited by Dobz

That will not happen mate it will die. I have not personally experience that but just read like we do here and learn. Read peoples experiences and everyone saying that it will work. Bandaid repairs basically. Sorry im in the same boat as everyone else mate. After spending so much I just thought I would share my opinions. If you guys find away I agree make it work. But in my opinion your not finding a way your just prolonging the inevitable.

Edited by MJTru

My opinions are based on reading. Reading the rich peoples approach. Both wet and dry. Funny how they started out wet and ended up dry. Thats the main pattern I see.

Guys, I am looking for extended sump (8/9L with baffle) options. Hi octane ones seem to be having mixed reviews (casting being porous).

Have contacted ASR but no reply yet..

Any tried and tested options out there?

Guys, I am looking for extended sump (8/9L with baffle) options. Hi octane ones seem to be having mixed reviews (casting being porous).

Have contacted ASR but no reply yet..

Any tried and tested options out there?

Racefab have exported to happy customers in Australia and the US:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-874138805.htm

http://racefab.co.nz/

ASR do have extended sumps MrFIjiGold had a word with them and initially they wanted to use my car to design it however. Unfortunate happened and it's no more. I recommend you give them a call the big problem with out GTTs is that they have to design around the sway bar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...