Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Hey everyone, just setting up my rb30det neo at the moment, I have set up 2 -10 outlets from my cam covers on my catch can and a single -10 on the bottom of the catch can to the sump on exhaust side there has already a rear head drain mod that's been done to my engine but the return to sump ends up above the windage tray on the inlet side, wouldn't this be holding any oil trapped in the hose? should I relocate it to under the windage tray?

Also the front head drain on the exhaust side runs into the sump directly below the turbo oil return on the block, would I be best to put this line into the block and have the turbo return directly into the sump. (this line runs well above oil level) or the other way around.

Cheers in advance

Edited by Kao13

Head drains are not drains. The intention is not to have oil flow down them so much as adding area for sump gases to flow upwards. We still want the oil to flow down through the block drains. If you had read this thread you would have gathered that.

Therefore the rear "drain's" return above the windage tray is not a problem, and is in fact perfectly fine, as the main requirement for the location of that end of a "drain" (actually the source end of a sump breather) is that it be above oil level.

Ditto front.

  • Like 1

I have a 25/30 neo and flog the absolute shit out of it and it doesn't breathe a single drop of oil.

I used a single 1.2mm restrictor in front feed and blocked the rear. I drilled out the standard baffles in the cam covers, put fuel cell foam underneath and put them back in. I also used a screwdriver to enlarge the standard drain on the factory baffles.

My sump has 2x -10AN fittings welded to it ready to go if it ever starts breathing hard. But as it is right now it's perfect and the cam cover baffles are reasonably cheap and easy mod.

  • Like 1

How many of you are run in gapless rings? I only seem to hear good things about them and I've even heard that they pressurise the sump a lot less.

I'm not an expert but if someone wants to add their expertise to this I would appreciate it.

Not many people run them. When I was buying rings I was offered them but didn't take it up because I wasn't familiar enough. THey promise to offer very little blow by which would be a huge gain for an RB26.

Pacific Engine Parts are fans of them. Give them a ring 03 9737 0717

Edited by djr81

I recently tested a 10 year old RB30 Single cam with 40,000kms on it. Had 0% - 1% leak down. Just about ripped the guys arms off when he was holding onto the bar holding the crank still. (I put 150psi into the cylinder).

They are impressive. I think when building an engine these should be considered

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...