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care to give any advice as to how you lowered the suspension?

i'm looking into starting a '94 cadillac fleetwood and make it a lowrider, but i'm unsure of how to get the suspension to get how i want it

  • 3 weeks later...

Am I retarded or something?

I bought a Fujimi model kit of an R34 GTT and I don't know how the f*ck to get the decals off the backing?!

Edit: Figured out how you're supposed to get them off (damn water decal thingys)

Edited by so_tred

yep, you are indeed a retard :(

remember to use tweezers so as not to lose the decals and don't use a big bowl try to get something shallow like a petri dish or a sour cream lid or some crap like that i dunno...

good luck!

  • 1 month later...

unfortunately i have a job....

...and i've been perfomring an rb20de+T conversion on my car,

i'm very soon going to start a new project involving a 1964 chevrolet impala lowrider black with chrome accents and purple paisley design interior

it will be the most murder looking car on the face of the universe... in 1/24 scale...

...i also have a Junction Produce honda oddyssey... can't wait to get my life back to normal!!!

Just to show everyone how bad it can get....

This is just a part of the collection..... :

post-262-1143785465.jpg post-262-1143785505.jpg post-262-1143785541.jpg post-262-1143785583.jpg post-262-1143785621.jpg

If anyone knows of any self help groups that can help people wean themselves from this addiction, now would be a good time to come forward... this addiction is starting to spiral out of control. :thumbsup:

yes, hand your wallet to me! lol

oh and cool nos tank!

i just realised i never put up pics of the mode parfume bold world design toyota crown OLOLOLOL i'm such a RAGING top bloke...

i'll post pics here when i get home, you guys may want to spadge... if you're as nerdy as i am

here is the mode parfume toyota crown

method of build

metallic black pearl

20" trafficstar DTX wheels

Height adjustable / Camber adjustable suspension system (yes it actually exsists springs and all)

Proper window tint (5% scabbed off my window tinting friend)

chrome leafing

dsc00467copyhh9.jpg

dsc00471copygb4.jpg

dsc00474copyyu9.jpg

interior detail

dsc00475copykj3.jpg

my 1/18th scale Chevrolet Impala Murder Mobile

dsc00476copyze4.jpg

The three kids lined up, Impul F55 Nissan Cima, Toyota Aristo by SKPDESIGN and BOLD WORLD PARFUME Toyota Celsior

dsc00484copyad8.jpg

dsc00486copyre5.jpg

dsc00485copynt5.jpg

...You can't say i don't have love for models! all i have left to do is my FABULOUS honda odyssey, my 1964 impala lowrider, and the replica edition of my nissan cefiro... then i have to buy more models! HAR HAR!!!

...and yes, i do have a gf.

Edited by Mr Eps
  • 7 months later...
ZTune looks awesome :)

Where do you guys buy the wheels? Ive been meaning to do a scale model of my GTR but ill only do it if i can find wheels that look the same (or very close to)

Thanks. :D

Wheels are luck of the draw sometimes. The hobby shops sometimes have em, but usually you have to buy a kit cos it has the wheels you want!

I picked up a Yokomo RC drift car while in Japan the other week.Its Nomurakens R34 skyline.

taking forever to build.You even have to build the coilovers lol.All the sus is adjustable.Cant wait to have a play.

Pics of the shelf now...

post-12712-1202307546_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1202307582_thumb.jpg

Finally finished Z tune!!!

post-12712-1202307614_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1202307653_thumb.jpgpost-4840-1124076540.jpgpost-12712-1202307699_thumb.jpg

Hey nice collection, those larger Skylines look scale 1:12 or are they 1:18?

The Nismo Z-Tune looks sweet! But I would mind getting one meself and painting the bonnet / wheels black and body white.

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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