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What is the Greddy e-manage?


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I've tried using the Buddy Club Racing Spec piggy back's and the actual sofware and tuning side is painfull, the results were good but the computer fried a board after a few months :)

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My e-manage does just fine, I've got an auto...and it's had a turbo bolted on, I'm very impressed with it!

Can get you E-manage + Support Tool + ignition & injector Harness for $750 delivered if you're interested?

Dan

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Hey Dr Drift have you done anymore installation on an auto Skyline?

Or have you worked out the problem you had with the ignition harness?

Another question hehe, is Andrew back yet? As he was going to install the e-manage for me on the dyno day but it was too busy.

Cheers

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Haven't pursued and more nissan e-manage installs recently... and no luck with the ignition yet, it does work but it's not really stable so I'd rather not... Andrew's back too...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dr Drift is right, eManage is much better than SAFC. What's more the ignition control gives the car that much better throttle response and the ability to retard the ignition with higher boost pressures.

Using the Z32 airflow meter gives you a much better resolution, especially at higher boost levels as the airflow meter max's out.

Mtam22, using the TRUST 3 bar MAP sensor would give the user the ability to MAP out anything above 1.3 bar, however, the std ECU would throw out a check code. This could technically be compensated by clamping the MAP input to not max 1.3bar, which only leaves you to figure out how to control the fuel.

I believe this may work, as I've tried it on a turbo civic, running 0.85bar boost (std max's at 0.7). I used a large fuel pump to overfuel the car, place a clamp on the MAP sensor so it dosen't see past 0.7bar. The TRUST 3 bar MAP sensor still measures the correct boost, as it is independent from the std MAP. At increasing RPM above 0.7bar, I fuelled up additional injectors. Works a treat, can't see why it wouldn't work on the Supra using MAP sensor. Furthermore, I suppose you wouldn't need to use the additional injectors, provided you got adequate fuel or larger inj. But think 1.3bar is quite a bit for a std Supra.

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interesting thread. I was thinking all the way power fc but now i am not so sure. In the future i may mildly upgrade the turbo and was wondering how will the e-manage handle it? I know that the power fc can handle turbo upgrades. I drive an r33 gtst ser1 so using a z32 tt air flow sensor would probably work i guess. Another thing is how easily is this thing tuned can it be done DIY (using the support tool ofcourse) without the proper air/fuel ratio figures and whats the go with the wideband O2 sensors it costs 300 but control module varies from 400 to 2 grand. Is this really necessary, dr. drift? If the tuning is really that easy i may opt for a e-manage but i would still think in the back of my mind it would be done better by a proffessional with a dyno so in the end i may opt for a power fc w/o commander since i will have it tuned properly? Another question, can the power fc eliminate those restrictive air flow sensors?

thanx heaps

Rom.

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If you got the cash, go standalone ECU. DEFINETELY! You pay for what you get.

Piggyback still only minpulates sensor signals, ie. MAF, MAP, crank angle sensor. Standalone ECU fully control ignition dwell time and injector duty cycles. As such, i suspect the problem with S14 series 2, S15 and ECR33 series 2, having coils blow up, is eManage dosen't control ignition dwell time for transistorized ignition coils.

HKS FCONV runs semi piggyback, as the standard ECU dosen't control ignition control or injectors. Same can be done for Motec or Autronic, piggyback on standard ECU, which controls aircon and idle control.

But in all respect, i've seen piggyback ECU pull some serious horsepower. Just how it's setup, and cost (is it worth it?).

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 3 weeks later...

Help someone, I'm confused. We have an auto Stagea, well it's on the way, what do I have to buy with an E-manage to get a good (not perfect) result. I already have these ready for the Stagea;

* ball bearing hi flow RB25 turbo

* a split dump

* very hi flow cat

* 3" exhaust

* panel filter

* CAI

* Autospeed (Norgren valve based) boost controller

* an OK FMIC

I need a nice torquey 200'ish rwkw to tow the race cars with, and since we go interstate, cruising (3 tonne up) fuel economy is important .

I like to keep the AFM's for "nice " running, so I think I need;

1. E-manage main unit

2. E-manage Support Tool

3. Optional Injection Harness

4. Optional Ignition Harness

I already have a laptop, so I don't need one of those. So how much will the above cost? Has the problem with #4 on auto's been addressed? Are the auto gearchanges "nice"?

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Sydneykid this guy is the cheapest you will find on the e-manage

http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/index.html

he is located in the states but will ship here. I've emailed him and he's quite knowledgeable, but unfortunately he couldnt tell me if the igntion harness works 100% with the auto skyline box as they dont have them. This was the only thing stopping me from buying one.

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Thanks MJ, here is what I found for others interested;

1. E-manage main unit

$US295 = $A405

2. E-manage Support Tool

$US119 = $A163

3. Optional Injection Harness

$US32 = $A44

4. Optional Ignition Harness

$US34 = $47

Package $US449 = $A615

+ Freight $A100

+ Duty 10%

+ GST 10%

That’s $A865 in total.

That would be OK, if the ignition control function can be confirmed for auto’s. I have contacted Earthink and asked about auto 240sx’s, as they are pretty much the same as Skyline autos in both ECU and gearbox functionality. I will post the answer when I get one.

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Hi guys, I received an email response from Earthink, as follows;

"I'm not sure how the e-manage will effect your car, the ITC adjust the

signals coming from the engine sensors to the ecu, basically it lies to the ecu.

The e-manages is hooked up between the ecu and the ignition system, that way

your ecu does see the correct input from the engine..."

Since that didn't really answer my question, I have emailed back and asked for more details. So watch this space.

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Hi guys, latest answer from e-manage on igntion timing changes and auto's.....

"the e-manage doesn't have such an option for auto cars, if you basically

leave these gear changing spots unchanged on the e-manage ignition map then the

factory ecu would do its job normally.....drive you car at full throttle and see

at what rpm it switched gears, then just ignore these spots and leave them at

zero so the factory ecu can pull timing on gear changes.."

but what happens when I am not at full throttle (like most of the time) and the auto changes gear at some other (lower) rpm? Doesn't that mean I have to leave the igntion timing alone (standard) for all of the effective rpm range as it can change gear anywhere it needs to?

I feel another question coming on...........

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Hi guys, latest answer from e-manage on igntion timing changes and auto's.....

"the e-manage doesn't have such an option for auto cars, if you basically

leave these gear changing spots unchanged on the e-manage ignition map then the

factory ecu would do its job normally.....drive you car at full throttle and see

at what rpm it switched gears, then just ignore these spots and leave them at

zero so the factory ecu can pull timing on gear changes.."

but what happens when I am not at full throttle (like most of the time) and the auto changes gear at some other (lower) rpm?  Doesn't that mean I have to leave the igntion timing alone (standard) for all of the effective rpm range as it can change gear anywhere it needs to?

I feel another question coming on...........

And the answer thta came back was;

"in partial throttle there is not enough load on the transmission to be

damaged on gear shifts, its not essential, at wide open throttle is where your

ecu start pulling the timing to save your tranny from the extra load on

shifts".

Sounds logical, anybody with an auto Skyline care to comment on the shift quality at part throttle openings, ie; does this sound correct.

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Gary

I have been following this with interest, as I was almost going to fit the e-manage but good advice was to go with the PFC (soon after run in). While I have nothing of value on the e-manage, other than with all the bits it costs almost as much as a PFC without controller, I can say that my wifes auto R33 (pod filter, some extra boost) has a fairly hard kick on gear changes, much harder than the Soarer V8 which is really obvious as far as softened power for gear changes and really slow changes.

Back to the Skyline though, it depends upon how you are driving. Nice and gently out of my street in the morning and Bang, into second. Not at all casual. After some warm up driving and it then starts to feel a bit smoother with the typical max power produced at around 3/4 throttle and sharpish changes. At full pedal the power seems to drop off noticeably, especially toward gear changes.

Sounds like there may indeed be a protection mechanism, but hopefully others have experiences to tell. Interestingly, the auto is only good for about 8psi max, even with 0.8mm copper plugs. Just seems hit the cut really hard after that.

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Thanks Geoff, I have not driven enough Skyline autos for long enough to really get into the auto shift patterns. Like you, I have noticed the deliberate power drop off just prior to and post gearchanges. This is typically done to protect the auto from flaring on the changes and cooking the clutch packs.

We have done many Skylines with Power FC's and that would always be my preferred route if the Stagea was a manual, but it's an auto. So I have to delve into other peoples' experiences. The big claim for e-manage is that they work for autos in piggy back with the standard ECU. This is OK for fuel, but the auto shift problem with ignition timing optimisation seems to have been ignored, or maybe it is simply too hard to program. This may well be the reason there is not an auto Power FC, too expensive to program the auto shift patterns.

Bottom line, I think I might use the much cheaper solution of an SAFC and put up with knowing that the best performance is not being achieved because I want to keep the (standard) ignition controlled shift quality.

Not finally decided yet though, maybe someone else with an auto has found a better way.

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