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My GTR has been shitting itself lately.

dropping revs to the point of completely stalling in the space of about 3 seconds....

stalling for no reason at idle.... accelerator being non responsive... slugging, lacking power.

could this be my problem?

cheers

  • 2 months later...

just to let everyone know, i just done this tutorial on my car as it was almost un-driveable and it has fixed it better then when i first got the car back 5 years ago.

My issues were:

1. Stalling when slowing down

2. Miss-fire every second or two

3. Cant rev over 3000 without making lots of backfire and smoke out the exhaust

4. And every now and then entering limp home mode when first starting the car.

I suggest everyone should try this if they have 2 or more of these symptoms

If this didnt fix the car then i was going to get a Auto-Sparky to look at it.

  • 4 weeks later...

I did this back when I had my GT-R, it got me out of trouble for a few weeks while I sourced a pair of AFM's, I bought a pair as they were matched and funnily enough the other stocker died not much later so I was glad I had the pair.

This works but for how long comes down to many other factors.

  • 2 weeks later...

I just bought a 33 GTR and it was doing the whole running rough and stalling and hunts for idle, have taken off AFM's and re soldered them as a couple of the pins were not making a solid connection, put them back on and reset the ECU and it made no difference. I know its the AFM's as i have hooked up the diagnostic console and the only error code that popped up was AFM's.... i am a little puzzled and have checked all visible wiring for the afm's aswell as the plugs and all seem fine :P

Mine didn't last long soldered, best to swap in some new or second handers.

If you're confident it's the problem then the soldering is not worth the headache in the long run. Some may be more damaged that others and be more successfully repaired than others too.

good luck.

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
I just bought a 33 GTR and it was doing the whole running rough and stalling and hunts for idle, have taken off AFM's and re soldered them as a couple of the pins were not making a solid connection, put them back on and reset the ECU and it made no difference. I know its the AFM's as i have hooked up the diagnostic console and the only error code that popped up was AFM's.... i am a little puzzled and have checked all visible wiring for the afm's aswell as the plugs and all seem fine :)

Clean the element. Use CRC contact Cleaner. The actual AFm sensor itself.

  • 2 weeks later...
Clean the element. Use CRC contact Cleaner. The actual AFm sensor itself.

would you suggest trying this for mine. The problem with my car is ever since i noticed 1 of the AFM voltages being very low compared to the other one its been popping and backfiring alot. So i thought i might try and give them both a clean.

  • 2 months later...

I bought my car 4 weeks ago and it was doing the same thing:

-dropping revs and stalling when slowing down

-dropping revs and threatening to stall with aircon on

-stalling/misfiring on acceleration

(all in a matter of within 3 days).

Sent it to the mechanic took them 3 days to work out what was wrong, they cleaned the AFMs and the car seems completely different now, it actually goes on boost. Will have a look at the contacts if this problem comes up again.

  • 6 months later...

hey guys, this is great info!! I re- soldered my connections even though they looked ok, but also found alot of corrosion on the printed circuit board under the gold coverplate. Either way car's fixed idles smoother, don't cut out and feels like its picked up a handfull of kw!! win win!

  • 7 months later...

Bumping for usefulness.

I was about to chuck a thread up saying how I did this as a fix but found this first. VG30 in Maxima being pain in the ass on all types of driving, but very very intermittent. Cleaned AFM and contact cleaned corrosion off one of the contact pins to no avail.

Not knowing the internals of the AFM I took out them 4 screws and lightly tugged on the socket, and like you said it came out surprisingly easy.

Now, knowing it's broken anyways, I pried the top off and saw the 4 pins were all intact, resoldered the joints and it's been running fine ever since. Lots of money saved. Remember to reseal the join on the lid with some gasket goo.

+1.

  • 6 months later...

Hey,

Just reading through this now, I think I have the same problem as you guys, but I think My AFM PLUG is also loose with the wiring..

any of you guys live in West Melbourne that could help me out with this 1 weekend or so, pm me if you can we can organize something.

ps: I dont know squat about soldering and I dont want to try lol

Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

Gonna bump an old thread to say this fix worked on my car.

My car would run (what seemed like) okay when cold, but after it reached operating temperature, it would randomly die/not want to rev/drop revs/misfire/have a 2,500rpm rev limiter.

Car initially started have some minor issues revving out and making full boost, I thought it was the CAS as it was only doing it while hot. A CAS swap did not affect the car. The car gradually got worse until it started dying randomly.

I re-soldered both AFM, the soldering on the pins were a little weak. Re-sealed with Sikaflex.

Thanks again for this fix. I'll attack my R31's AFM when I get some time.

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