Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

as usual, wanky americans building cars that dont go around corners or bends.

But untill i see an american car that can turn corners im not even gonna bother thinking that they have a decent car that can race.

kol, last i checked Honda is a japanese brand. not made in america.

I live where this race occured. Here is the dyno sheet for the GTR from dynopro.com. The civic that he raced is probably making 450-500whp. Civics like this one are all over the place out here. Horrible powerband for the GTR as you can see. It is HKS T51R with basically no supporting mods. Probably did not even spool while racing.

paul2xdyno9ub.gif

Edited by BlackRBS13
I live where this race occured. Here is the dyno sheet for the GTR from dynopro.com. The civic that he raced is probably making 450-500whp. Civics like this one are all over the place out here. Horrible powerband for the GTR as you can see. It is HKS T51R with basically no supporting mods. Probably did not even spool while racing.

paul2xdyno9ub.gif

That's shocking...

yes it is believe it or not!

still a nugget!

compared to a turbo that is...

Last time i checked a 13 was not too bad. That is not even hard to achieve with an eg and a bone stock K series. I dont know maybe I am preaching to the 10 second crowd but where i am from 13slooks pretty fast on the street.

I live where this race occured. Here is the dyno sheet for the GTR from dynopro.com. The civic that he raced is probably making 450-500whp. Civics like this one are all over the place out here. Horrible powerband for the GTR as you can see. It is HKS T51R with basically no supporting mods. Probably did not even spool while racing.

paul2xdyno9ub.gif

That is one terrible graph, must be one crappy tune, and a car with half its Max power with a better average tune would be able to take it easy.

Some civics sure are fast. there is quite a fwd culture in some countries where they are posting some good times. with a decent suspension setup they can corner well too.

with enough money you can get a hyundai excel to accelerate faster than a badly tuned gtr. it's all about power to weight not the badge on the car.

you look at that site and can find all sorts of cars beating machinery you wouldn't expect. ferrari's and lambo's get beaten by some cheap cars with big mods. there's even a turbo'd viper (could be twin turbo) that beats a turbo suzuki hayabusa (spelling?) where the rider of the bike admits to getting beaten. I found that hard to believe though apprently they were both trying.

it you want acceleration by a cheap car. Add a big big engine and add forced induction. Oh and take out the unwanted weight. it's a simple formula.

Edited by Smurf

Like many had said if you got the cash you can do up and bomb and whoop anyones arse whether if its gtrs or not. All you need a sh!t load of cash if money arent a thang then go for it if standing out from the crowd is your thing.

i think the sad reality is that the gtr just got smoked

some civics and the like are incredibly fast. there are a couple here in nz that look standard and run low 11's / high 10's.

sure the gtr is a great car but that doesnt automatically mean that because you own one means that your instantly fast. thats almost adopting the holden v8 drivers mentality

Jesus grow up! lol

I have a skyline and I love it but they are not the quickest car on the road and especially not anymore with all the euro cars/hatches which are putting out the same sort of stock power as us.

Be realistic about it or you risk becoming a bogan who thinks his vl is the quickes thing around hahahah

sure the gtr is a great car but that doesnt automatically mean that because you own one means that your instantly fast. thats almost adopting the holden v8 drivers mentality

Thats a really un-fair generalisation, since you dont know what every single Holden V8 driver's mentality is.

Ross80: While that does happen, think about the people who have spent alot of money and time on their VLs who arent bogans.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...