Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Apparently Optimax extreme is bad for our (skylines) cars. Some report was done in Japan and its now banned or something. No joke.

So far i've found my r33 s2 loves Mobile Synergy 8000 the best.

Im yet to try full tank of Synergy but so far my R33 loves BP Ultimate... runs better mileage than Optimax... also doesnt have that sulfer smell...

And yes I heard Extreme has ethanol which is a no for Skylines.

Edited by Sir-D

We have been running Optimax Extreme in the R33GTST for months. I have removed the filter twice and cut it open to see if there is any hose or pump damage and it was perfectly clean everytime. I have also removed cleaned and flow tested the injectors and they are exaclty as they should be.

So the urban myth that 5% ethanol corrodes rubber hoses is 100% BS.

So the urban myth that 5% ethanol corrodes fuel pumps is 100% BS.

So the urban myth that 5% ethanol destroys fuel injectors is 100% BS.

The R33GTST currently has a Power FC running the default maps, which usually means knock over 60 frequently. With Optimax Extreme in it we rarely see knock over 10, the peak was 25 one cold night. Based on the amount of ingition timing retard we have had to use to get the knock below 30 using 98 ron (ANY 98 ron) that is worth 12 rwkw.

Don't get sucked into the ethanol is bad, that may apply to 20% or higher proportions. But 5% is NOT the same story.

So I see no downsides to using Optimax Extreme and I am not the only one. Check around and you will find plenty of guys using it.

:laugh: cheers :D

I too have a r32 gts-t and I am convinced that mobil synergy 8000 is the best fuel. I get the most mileage out of it and when i use bp ultimate or shell optimax i tend to notice a stonger smell of petrol when i have car ideling on cool down.

I read an article on ethanol fuels and im pretty sure i remember reading that Nissan had released a statement that Nissan owners of cars pre 2002 (i think) should not use an ethonal fuel of any mixture.

Personally I wouldn't bother with extreme, if you really want more octaneyou could use a octane booster, but again not a lot a point if your car is relatively stock.

(using synergy i got 560km at which point the needle was on Empty but i filled it up and it took 51litres so it wasnt bone dry obviously, but either way thats less than 10lt/100km and on that same tank i had a few runs with my mates g-tech and wasn't exactly puttering around town on Sunday afternoon's.)

Edited by r32line

Yeah in my opinion Extreme is a rip off.

Its more expensive than Optimax, isn't the point of ethanol blended fuels that they are meant to be cheaper? That 5% ethanol is 5% petrol they dont have to put in (about $5 worth these days for a full tank).

You'll find that in most cases 95 octane is 7 cents dearer than regular ULP and 98 octane is 10 cents more. And then that optimax ultimate happy fuel is even more. You can't get it in South Australia but i wouldn't mind trying a tank of it.

im still really sceptical about using it. As sydneykid says it does not corrode the fuel system etc and he has done tests, i heard that this will only happen after a long period of time. e.g you leave your car near the beach once it wont rust. but after years it will start to show. ?? what does everyone think?

We have been running Optimax Extreme in the R33GTST for months. I have removed the filter twice and cut it open to see if there is any hose or pump damage and it was perfectly clean everytime. I have also removed cleaned and flow tested the injectors and they are exaclty as they should be.

So the urban myth that 5% ethanol corrodes rubber hoses is 100% BS.

So the urban myth that 5% ethanol corrodes fuel pumps is 100% BS.

So the urban myth that 5% ethanol destroys fuel injectors is 100% BS.

The R33GTST currently has a Power FC running the default maps, which usually means knock over 60 frequently. With Optimax Extreme in it we rarely see knock over 10, the peak was 25 one cold night. Based on the amount of ingition timing retard we have had to use to get the knock below 30 using 98 ron (ANY 98 ron) that is worth 12 rwkw.

Don't get sucked into the ethanol is bad, that may apply to 20% or higher proportions. But 5% is NOT the same story.

So I see no downsides to using Optimax Extreme and I am not the only one. Check around and you will find plenty of guys using it.

:O cheers :bunny:

Ok guys im barging in into this thread.

Ethanol is good you get higher octane level therefore better combustion=more power. But the downside of is, it actually runs hotter and drier on the piston. So its not good for the engine.

By far as for which brand is better for fuel? I personally have tried every single major brand suxh as Bp, shell and mobil. Mobil is the most powerful (snergy 8000), Bp iltimate is the cleanest and a bit better milage and shell is the worse of all.so...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...